Asia is the new culinary hotbed

Food is so primal, so essential a part of our lives, often the mere sharing of recipes with strangers turns them into good friends.  That’s why I love this community.  — Jasmine Heiler, about recipezaar.com

One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.  — Luciano Pavarotti and William Wright, Pavarotti, My Own Story

With cooking shows, the Internet and ease of travel there has been a surge in the culinary arts in the Philippines, none more evident than the recent national food showdown 2009 held at the A.Venue complex, Makati City chaired by Myrna Segiusmundo, Jill Sandique and associates. With Southeast Asia becoming the culinary hotbed for talent and creative dishes, it is no surprise that interest has reached an all-time high. Simple foods have transformed to upscale delicacies, paving the way for innovation and producing gastronomical gems. It’s inspiring to see that the region’s rich culinary heritage has finally taken center stage. Being a co-demonstrator with top notch chef and loving sister Wells Reynoso Gala (a valedictorian graduate from IHMES International Hotel School, UK who studied cooking and baking at Le Cordon Bleu, London) for the Monterey Meats and Magnolia Chicken, as well as judge in one haute cuisine competition, it is fascinating to see how Filipinos have accelerated by leaps and bounds. The color, taste and smell of the finished products were well-thought-out, and the artistry of chocolate and bread sculptures as well as cake decoration was awe-inspiring, a preview of the bright future in the Philippines and Southeast Asia, a treasure not waiting to be discovered but an extravaganza happening now.

Southeast Asian cuisine has always been at the forefront of the fusion revolution, with vast array of spices, abundant food sources and rich cultural diversity all intertwining to make contemporary, totally unique dishes. The increasing appreciation highlights this region’s growing popularity, and the trend for combining flavors from other countries is no longer frowned upon but applauded and respected. Restaurateurs, critics, gourmets, chefs and the movers and shakers have realized the worldwide phenomenon is now at our doorstep: the food capital is now Asia. This development is because our neighbors have shared techniques and ingredients and in time have mastered the balancing of texture, flavor and essence. Such examples include Thailand and Malaysia. Thai cuisine is based on curries influenced by neighboring India, though they vary with the latter using yoghurt while Thai’s use local products such as coconut cream, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves. In one lesson at the Thai Oriental School, Bangkok, I learned that their food is not all spicy; rather it’s a combination of two or more dominant flavors which explains why some desserts are both sweet and salty. With the introduction of noodles from China, this ingredient has integrated with curry, allowing the dish to be a complete meal. Curry paste (a combination of garlic, onion, lemongrass, galanga or ginger, dried and fresh chili, fresh herbs and spices) are often combined with salty fish sauce known as patis and sweet palm sugar to give contrast as well as balance to tantalize your taste buds. The high threshold of coconut cream or milk to heat allows dishes to cook fast and with ease. Pork, beef and chicken ingredients are used if the recipe is from the city, with provincial areas using vegetables and fish, which are more commonly found locally.

My sister Wells and her travels throughout Asia brought with her beef rendang, an Indonesian/Malaysian dish that is coconut-based, mixed various spices, and cooked until all liquid is absorbed by the meat. Malay cuisine is a blend of Indian, Chinese, Thai, Indonesian and local ingredients. Sambals or sauces/relishes served on the side are included to add punch and variety. With the invention of the pressure cooker, rendang can now be done in one hour. Desiccated coconut is then infused, with rice added to offset the salty flavor. She used kechap Manis, molasses-sweetened soy sauce to combine sweet and salty. Traditionally eaten with hands, this dish is a shining example that Asian Cuisine is no longer unknown, but a groundbreaking revelation that is here to stay.

Monterey Beef Rendang

1) 1 kilo Monterey Beef Brisket (Punta y Pecho) cut into 2x2-inch cubes. Marinate in 1/2 cup sweet soy sauce (kechap Manis) or use 1/2 cup regular soy sauce with 2 tbsp. molasses, 1 tbsp. Chinese or Thai shrimp paste (bagoong), 1/2 cup oil, 1/2 cup violet onions, 2 siling labuyo (red chilis), 2 slices luyang Dilaw (yellow ginger), 1 cup coconut milk, 4 cups desiccated coconut, 1/2 cup chopped spring onions for garnish, 6 cups cooked rice.

2) Heat oil in pressure cooker or wok until very hot. Add onions, Luyang dilaw, labuyo and beef and cook until brown. Add coconut milk. (Note: if not using pressure cooker, use 3 cups coconut milk instead of 1 cup. Let boil, then simmer covered 2 hours.) For pressure-cooked beef, time 1 hour after you hear a “hissing” sound. Lower flame. For regular pressure cooker, wait 15 minutes or until all pressure is released before opening your pressure cooker. Cool cover before to save the rubber gasket.

3) When beef is tender, add desiccated coconut. Continue cooking until mixture is dry.

4) Serve with rice to offset saltiness of beef.

Thai Green Curry Chicken-Gang Kiew Wan Gai

1) Prepare the following: 2 Magnolia chicken breasts, cut into 2-inch-wide 2-inch-long strips, 2 tbsp. green curry paste, 400 grams coconut cream, 3 tbsp. fish sauce (patis), 3 tbsp. palm sugar, 1 cup thinly sliced eggplant cut into 1/4-inch thick rings, 3 kaffir lime leaves or mint leaves, 1/2 cup basil leaves, 2 red finger chili for garnish.

2) Mix in a medium saucepan all ingredients except eggplant, lime leaves and basil leaves. Cook 8 minutes, mixing well.

3) Add eggplant and lime leaves. Cook 3 minutes more.

4) Garnish with basil leaves and chili pepper. Serve with rice or flat noodles.

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For more recipes and schedule of classes log on to www.sylviareynosogala.com.

Discoveries of the Week

A kaffir lime tree can be grown in your own garden (available at the herb garden, Quezon Memorial Circle, Commonwealth Avenue and at Bay, Los Baños, Laguna near UP). The fragrant leaves give that very refreshing taste and aroma so important in Thai cooking. It loves the morning sun and has to be watered daily. Thanks to my Malaysian student Sarah Jean Yap for the info. I used to buy the leaves at P10 per in the market. For the best spicy tuna sushi, and tempura a must-try is Izakaya Nihonbashitei, located at 800 A. Arnaiz Avenue, Makati City. The service is outstanding and the sashimi selection is top of the line and well-prepared. I recommend you make a reservation because this establishment is always full. Call 818-8893 or 818-8894.