Meet Barako Joe
In the filmThe Bucket List, Morgan Freeman’s character says, “Never catch me drinking that sh*t.” He is referring to exotic Kopi Luwak or civet coffee which is approximately $50 a cup. For that amount you ingest golden brown liquid made from coffee berries that have been eaten by and passed through the digestive tract of the Asian Palm civet (the Indonesian term is Luwak). Apparently the internal digestion adds a unique flavor to the beans, removing the bitter flavor. The civet, which thrives in the Indonesian archipelago, eats only the absolute ripest of beans. After the civet excretes them they are gathered and hand-washed before being roasted and sold. Coffee connoisseurs sing nothing but praises to its flavor and aroma. But once again, taste is subjective. It’s amusing to think then how much coffee beans would cost if humans pooped them out. But considering all the inorganic matter in our system, it would be best to leave that responsibility to the jungle wildcat and Mother Nature.
And me? My preference? Ala eh….what else but a strong cup of kape barako at the break of dawn, in a meditative moment before I face the day head on. Nothing like the robust, Lipa-grown beverage to warm my engine and keep me on my toes when I have to burn the midnight oil during grueling food-styling sessions. Give me a hot mug of barako Joe anytime to break barriers and stimulate warm conversation in the company of newfound acquaintances or dear friends.
I’ve recently developed a deep sense of appreciation for our homegrown coffee, during a recent food trip to Lipa, Batangas, where I met Barako Joe, as I fondly call him. Joe Mercado comes from a century-old line of coffee farmers and owns the popular Batangas attraction Café de Lipa. Coffee runs in his blood and his life story is the stuff that tall tales are made of! Believe it or not, he claims he was born in a coffee sack right under a coffee tree.
The Macasaet clan, who planted the Philippine’s first coffee tree in Pinagtung-Ulan, Lipa City, in the 1800s, are Mercado’s great-great-great-grandparents. In that golden era the Philippines enjoyed the prestige of being the fourth largest coffee-producing country in the world and at one time it was the world’s sole supplier of coffee. At that time Lipa had become one of the richest towns in the Philippines. The coffee history of the Macasaet lineage spans more than a hundred years of family tradition of coffee blending and roasting.
It is Joe Mercado’s vision to elevate barako once more to its rightful status up there with the world’s best. Before the Café de Lipa coffee shop was established (the name of which is one of the their three signature coffee brands) they were in the business of supplying and exporting the Mercado family’s secret blend of coffee beans and roasting technique. The other blends are Batangas Brew and Kapeng Barako, which are continually in demand here and abroad.
Café de Lipa, a popular tourist destination, promotes the homegrown brew in different preparations. Of course, it is best served the classic way, black, hot and strong. However, to capture a wider market the barako coffee is also prepared in a variety of ways: cold, and ice-blended, in exciting variants and flavors to please different tastes. Of course Joe proudly had me sample the specialty of the house, Café de Lipa’s Baracuccino. It is a standout and could be compared favorably with international gourmet coffee preparations.
Keeping true to homegrown tradition, Cafe de Lipa serves a mouthwatering array of Batangueño pastries and savory dishes such as tinapa and adobo pâté with pan de sal, a sampler made up of tableya brownies, calamansi crunch and pilinut bars, tableya decadent cake, and moist barako brownies produced by its very own commissary.
Although Lipa is the best place to savor a hot cup of barako, Joe brings this delightful coffee experience to Manila and is confident he will capture the mainstream market. True to his name, he boldly predicts over 100 Café de Lipa cafes sprouting all over the country in the years to come, giving international coffee chains a reason to have the caffeine jitters.
Now, every time I wake up to my morning cup of barako Joe, I follow Joe’s instructions on how to immerse myself in the experience: he says the best way is to have it is black, no sugar. And before the first sip, take a deep whiff and enjoy its aroma; then let its flavor and body stay in your mouth before you swallow. From here on in, he says you’ll be forever captive to its strong bold taste. And you know what? He’s absolutely right!
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