Red, be a lady

There is a little-known Philippine connection to the famous wine-growing region of Bordeaux in France. The link is the Miailhe Family (pronounced “Mee-eye”) and their wine estate, Chateau Siran, which has been owned by the same family for the past 150 years, that anniversary being celebrated in fact this very year, 2009.

An interesting anecdote: the Miailhe Family bought Chateau Siran in 1859 from the aristocratic grandparents of Henri Toulouse-Lautrec, the short-legged, post-impressionist artist best remembered for his paintings of the cabaret “can-can” entertainers of Moulin Rouge.

I was watching a photo shoot of a wine collection when Edouard Miailhe made his presence known. Brushing away a lock of wavy hair from his forehead, he smiled and said, “Oh, that’s a Saint Jacques de Siran, a good wine.”

Edouard should know. His parents, William-Alain and Brigitte Miailhe, managed the family’s wine domain for three decades until the torch was passed on to Edouard, representing the fifth generation of Miailhes. It was a time-honored tradition that generations of Miailhes had upheld before him.

But where does the Philippines fit into this milieu?

Seven generations of the Miailhes had, by design, traveled to the Philippines to engage in commerce and trade. Edouard explains, “My ancestors had four generations of Irish/English descendants and three generations of French. One of my French relations traveled to Dublin, Ireland, and there he met and married a lady who would turn out to be my great grandmother. Manila always figured in our family history as a vital trading post and as a place of domicile.”

To this day, the family holds, in good reserve, tracks of premium land located in some of the oldest areas of Manila. In fact, when the family sold one of these properties in 1965, the earnings were so significant that the family was able to acquire another wine chateau in Bordeaux. Proof that land is a great asset to own in any given era.

Having taken over the management of Chateau Siran, Edouard is one of those global voyagers who have chosen to settle his family in Manila. “Manila has been like home to me since I was a child and my wife, Sevrine, holds the same opinion. Our children easily adapted to the local customs and we all made wonderful friends.”

“Oh, yes indeed,” a friend agreed. “If you close your eyes and listen to these kids speak — every ‘p’ and ‘k’ deeply enunciated — you’d swear they were native-born Filipinos, until you realize that they’re blonde, blue-eyed and fair-skinned.”

“These are the fruits of goodwill that my ancestors nurtured in this country,” said Edouard. “Wine appreciation has grown in Asia. Being based in the heart of Asia makes my job easier; I can promote and expand our network in this part of the world without having to change time zones.”

“Do you speak Tagalog?” I asked. (Edouard is fluent in French, English and Spanish.) He blushed and replied, “Kaunti lang.” (A little/ un peu/ un poco.) I suspect he knows enough Tagalog not to be sold for a song. 

Edouard spoke lengthily about his love and passion for wine and that spilled over to a Q&A session, mainly to address my curious (maybe even “nosy”) inclination: 

PHILIPPINE STAR: Why is Margaux de Siran considered a “feminine” wine as opposed to the other powerful and masculine wines in the Medoc region? 

EDOUARD MIAILHE: The variety of grapes meticulously blended in Margaux (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot) gives a soft and silky taste that does not leave a jolting sensation when swallowed. We believe that wine should not be aggressive; neither should it be heavy. It should be agreeable, blending nicely, naturally.

Do you mean that Margaux will never make me drunk? (Heaven forbid.)

Yes. It is an excellent match to a variety of meals aside from being unmistakably kind and soothing to drink.  We’ve proven it, time and again, that one could finish a whole bottle or two without feeling lightheaded or worse, dizzy and sick.

Can you chill red wine?

You can. However, it cools down very quickly so chill it in an ice bucket about 10 minutes before you serve it, just enough time to awaken the fine characteristics of the wine.

What’s the ideal temperature for red wine?

Between 17? to 18? centigrade. 

Why did you say that the quality of the glass used in drinking wine is essential to its enjoyment?

It heightens your senses. Choose tulip-shaped crystal or glass with a deep body. Run your finger around the rim (on top) and feel the thickness of the glass; the finer or thinner the rim, the better for the nose and the aroma of the wine to stay on top. (It is at this point that your host would twirl the attractive crimson wine inside the fluted glass before taking a sniff and inhaling the bouquet.)

What kind of food goes well with Margaux and Saint Jacques?

It goes well with meat, chicken, pork, veal, pasta and baked savories like quiches and meat pies. Avoid food with sharp spices like pepper and chili. Avoid anything acidic like lemon or citrus fruits. No strong cheese either. 

We already know the health benefits of drinking red wine; for example “it curbs the growth of fat cells.” At what age should parents introduce their children to it?

In our family, we do it in stages. The young ones are allowed to dip a finger into a glass of wine that we uncork during family dinners. At five years old, maybe we will allow them to take a sip from our glass. When they reach the age of 14 or 15 years old, we may allow them to drink a glass — once a week — but only in our company. One must be very careful to give the proper supervision and caveat to young children.

With our tête-à-tête over, this tall and engaging wine connoisseur — a grape grower, at heart — led me to a table for a pleasant dining experience with good friends. Conversation flowed smoothly complemented by a choice menu and red wine, naturallement.

And, yes, I remained clear-headed and serene.

Edouard was right. Red is indeed a lady and her name is Margaux de Siran.

* * *

Chateau Siran produces red wine under the brand labels of Chateau Siran Margaux, S de Siran Margaux and Saint Jacques de Siran. They are available at all Santi’s stores, at Premium Wine Exchange (Pasong Tamo Extension), and at Bacchus, Shangri-la Hotel. Visit their website at www.chateausiran.com for more info and photos of the pink-hued chateau. The Philippine flag is flown proudly at Chateau Siran.