Sushi so good at Tsumura

The Japanese must know something about food preparation, since they are among the longest living people in the world. Recent figures state that the average life expectancy of Japanese women is 85, while Japanese men expect to live to a ripe age of 78. For them, freshness is the name of the game, which is apparent in their cuisine that is popularly hailed as healthy, but nonetheless satisfying.

Which brings me to one of my favorite things: sushi! Sushi has come a long way from its beginnings as just "raw fish." For me, it is an art. Just consider how a sushi chef deftly handles the hocho (Japanese kitchen knife) quintessential to the art of sushi making. To a sushi chef, knives are as important as swords were to the samurai warrior. With this, he displays his skill, slicing and dicing various treasures of the sea with lightning-speed precision.

Sushi and sashimi have had an increasing patronage among Filipinos, and if you are a connoisseur, you may have dined once, twice or regularly at the quaint but popular Tsumura Sushi Bar and Restaurant along Pasay Rd. in Makati City. Over time, this restaurant has developed a cult following, myself included, thanks to its delicious menu, which is a winning combination of traditional fare, and to its sushi chefs’ abilities to turn dining moments into an ethereal experience. The constant stream of diners doesn’t mind filling the rather compact space, which seats a maximum of 34. Japanese expats just feel right at home as adept chefs at the sushi counter turn out reliable sushi, sashimi, and other Japanese hits.

Because of its growing popularity, Japan Gourmet Inc., the restaurant’s owner, decided to build a bigger restaurant, which can now accommodate 160 to 190 guests. The new restaurant just opened at the corner of Sedeno and Valero Sts. in Salcedo Village, welcoming clients old and new for the past weeks now. Innovative architect Ed Calma gives the place a glow of urban Zen chic, a glammed-up blend of east and west, with furniture that pairs stainless steel with abaca, and bamboo with glass.

Just recently, I had the opportunity to visit its new branch upon the invitation of my good friends Mitos Juarez and working chum Ben Go. I would not miss out on the chance of a night of good food, good company, and good sake.

Part owner Masamichi "Michael" Tsumura is 100 percent a hands-on fellow. When we arrived, he was personally manning the sushi bar. In his usual genial demeanor, he insisted on taking care of choosing the entrees we would be dining on that night. He just wanted us to sit, back, relax, and enjoy the food.

We watched him in awe as he deftly pared fish into paper-thin slices, while animatedly giving out orders to his staff in Tagalog through his visibly thick Japanese accent. As we expected, every specimen of seafood was simply close to flawless. We started with katsuo tataki, or tulingan sashimi with spring onion sauce. The skin was slightly grilled, but the fish meat remained very fresh and tasty.

This was followed by ankino, or what he calls the Japanese foie gras (anglerfish liver). You might remember the anglerfish as the fish with the flashlight in the movie Finding Nemo. As stellar as its reputation, this is definitely a must-try as it deliciously melts in the mouth. This was my favorite among his selections.

It is the rule of thumb that Tsumura, true to his Japanese roots, serves portions in prime numbers – 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, or 9 – never numbers that are divisible, except for 2. The Japanese believe following this brings good fortune to business, but I guess luck has little to do with it. The food speaks for itself.

We were next served shirauo kakiage, deep-fried small white fish, and then perfectly seared Pacific sanna shio. Both were first presented to us raw for our approval before being cooked. Biting into the fishes, I understood why people keep coming back to this place. The sanna shio was grilled with its innards intact, and it was so scrumptious and juicy. The lapu-lapu usuzukumi, which was thinly sliced, was served in an exquisite flower-designed dish with dipping sauce.

I noticed that wasabi was visibly missing among the Japanese condiments on our table. Apparently, a very small amount was already added to the sushi. Tsumura explained that the diner would want to savor the freshness of the fish instead of washing it down with wasabi and soy. And it was indeed supremely fresh if not especially memorable. They actually grate fresh wasabi into the dish as they prepare it.

The next entrée was kaki su, or huge fresh Japanese oysters with sharply delicious ponsu. These were just flown in from Japan because they are now in season. Tsumura explained that he comes out with special dishes according to what is in season in Japan. After this, we were each served a small fresh tiger shrimp, twisted, with the tail sticking out, and served with lemon: a bite-sized bliss so tasty and crunchy. Then, a serving each of salmon and sushi followed. We were so full by this time, but the Japanese hit parade continued.

Michael (Tsumura’s Christian name) insisted it was time for Japanese fried rice, cooked Chinese-style, and the classic but nonetheless mouthwatering ebi tempura, which was very crispy. During the meal, he served more exotic sushi for us to sample, like unagi and anago, which are both eel, both buttery soft and delicious.

Like clockwork, Tsumura is done by 9 p.m. and ends his night with a ritual cup of tsasaki (sake and tea). This is his time to lighten up, and he even bantered with us. He confided he is part of the dreaded "Takusa" ring, acronym for "takot sa asawa." A stale joke to be sure, but the fact that it comes from a Japanese makes it refreshingly funny. Hardworking and charming as well, Tsumura has acquired some of our Filipino ways, having been in the country since 1981, finding his lady love, a Filipina whom he married, and then comfortably settling here.

In true Japanese style, miso soup with clams was served last, and you can gauge a good Japanese restaurant by the freshness of its miso. Tradition has it that if you find the miso soup especially good, slurping it down is actually a compliment. Ahem. I would prefer to tell the cook personally.

To Mitos, a visit to Tsumura’s would be for naught if she didn’t get to sit for her bowl of chawan mushi, a delectable egg custard steamed in a small clay pot. So, we let her have her way.

Tsumura’s menu sticks to the traditional. It isn’t fancy or full of surprises, it is just good, delicious Japanese gourmet cooking that is well executed. How else can one lose with that? There’s something to satisfy everyone’s taste here, whether one is a sushi savant or newbie, adventurous or even undecided.

That night, neither I nor Mitos nor Ben were bothered or even gave much of a thought to Tsumura’s extra happy staff as they greeted us loudly in Japanese "Welcome!" or "Sit! Sit!" or "Domo arigato!" I would not even mind if they poked me with chopsticks for all I care. The food was all worth it! And to that I declare a toast: Kampai!