At Krua Thai, the food is spicy, but not too hot

The mention of Thai food sends some people into a sweat. The former Trade undersecretary sitting beside me (his name escapes me now) carefully went through the platters of Thai dishes before us, perhaps counting the chilies in each one. He apologized that much as he loves Thai food, it would be embarrassing to enjoy it in his shirt sleeves. Wa poise, as gayspeak would describe it.

In fact, as you browse the extensive menu of Krua Thai Authentic Thai Cuisine, you will barely see the red chili sign on the items. When the red chili sign does appear, it is like a red flag warning you to think twice whether or not you should order the marked item.

However, this is not so, says Willy Ang, one of the five franchisees who operate the Krua Thai outlet at The Blue Wave along Macapagal Ave. in Pasay City. Ang says many of the dishes have already been tempered to suit Pinoy palates.

"They are no longer that hot," he says. "But if you want it to be as authentic as they have it in Thailand, just tell our server, and our Thai chefs will oblige."

That’s why when I dipped my soup spoon into the little bowl of tom yam goong (P150 for a small serving/P180 for a large one) before me, I was expecting to break into a sweat. I didn’t. Instead, the blend of spices and chilies tickled my throat as the soup went down, eliciting from me a little cough.

Ang cautiously asked, "Is it too hot? Is there anything wrong with the soup?"

I could only shake my head, and it was only after a few moments before I could mutter a raspy, "It’s really good." He sure wasn’t kidding when he said the dishes have been reformulated to suit Pinoy taste buds. The tom yam was sweet and spicy, but not hot. Your tongue doesn’t burn as you would expect from Thai tom yam.

And the flavor surprises don’t end there. Ang says some of the more important spices in and the sauces that go with the dishes are flown in regularly from Thailand. However, many of the ingredients are already sourced locally.

That’s why the sweet-spicy sauce that goes with the Thai spring rolls (P65 for three pieces/P105 for five pieces) isn’t that hot anymore, but more sweet, like a tangy sweet and sour sauce with just a hint of a kick at the end. The tamarind sauce – here they call it Tarzan sauce – that is paired with the fried beef with sesame seeds (P125) isn’t that sour but mildly sweet, too. The chili sauce that accompanies a platter of fried squid in garlic doesn’t burn the tongue, so you can generously ladle more of it. And the sweet sauce that goes with fried prawn patties (P75 for three pieces/P125 for five pieces) is as sweet as chutney sauce.

Those who have been to Thailand and tried the food there will be disappointed with Krua Thai’s Filipinized Thai cooking. But those with faint hearts and weak tongues will surely make a beeline for Krua Thai. And a beeline is what the Blue Wave branch has been experiencing since it opened last Feb. 11.

Pinky Tobiano, Ang’s niece, says the restaurant was very busy just a day or two after it opened. They were overwhelmed by the volume of guests on Valentine’s Day and during the Feb. 12 Lovapalooza 2 event along Roxas Blvd.

Ang discovered Krua Thai during a trip to Cebu. He tried the food, liked it and decided to bring it to Manila. He owns The Blue Wave franchise along with five others, including Tobiano, twin sister Ely Ang, and Nano Quintos. However, the Pasay City branch isn’t the first in Metro Manila. The first Krua Thai in NCR opened at the SM Megastrip at SM Megamall.

Krua Thai is the brainchild of Anthony Ballreich. Ballreich must have hit a goldmine because there are now three outlets in Cebu and Lapu-Lapu cities, and others in Bacolod City, Iloilo City, and Davao City.

What attracted him to Krua Thai? Ang, who also has interests in a number of grill and fine dining outlets, says that while Thai food is big in Metro Manila, there are very few good places to go to.

"Wherever you go, you’ll find a grill place or a Chinese restaurant," he says. "Why not a Thai restaurant, I thought?"

All Krua Thai restaurants follow a uniform menu. Consistency of dishes among the different branches is ensured by Thai chefs that keep a tight rein on the kitchen. At The Blue Wave branch, chefs Ot Ronadhai and Mam make sure the food is as good as it gets.

The entire restaurant is Thai perfect. Paper parasols hang from the ceiling to diffuse the overhead lights. Thai figures hang from the walls, as well as shades and birdcages that add mood to the place. There are separate smoking and nonsmoking areas, while a function room can be split into two rooms that can each seat as many as 20 diners.

Krua Thai is tucked away at the far end of The Blue Wave, one of the newest restaurants within the complex. If you have a hard time finding it, just follow the line that makes its way to the rear. You are sure to find so many diners enjoying its spicy delights.

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Krua Thai Authentic Thai Cuisine is at Unit N1-N2 at The Blue Wave, Metropolitan Park, President Diosdado Macapagal Blvd. corner EDSA Ext., Pasay City. For inquiries and reservations, call 833-5836, telefax 831-8358 and 0917-527-0123.

Krua Thai also has branches at the SM Megastrip, SM Megamall, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong City; at Crossroads Mall along Banilad Road, Marina Mall in Lapu-Lapu City and SM City Cebu, all in Cebu City; at Kimwa Commercial Complex, Mandurriao, Iloilo City; at Piazza Sorrento Bldg., Lacson St., Bacolod City; and at SM City Davao.