(City of) Angels at work
April 10, 2003 | 12:00am
By nighttime, we would be out on the dark streets of Angeles, like vampires, looking for action in the dingy nightclubs. I was then just in my teens and was entertaining my classmates from Manila. We were allowed to enter the clubs and even have some drinks. Looking back now, I wonder how we survived such an environment. Our dear parents must have been worried sick. I have a teenage son now, and I do not even want to imagine him roaming those streets. Kami pa na all girls!
That was the norm then, and we did not see anything wrong with it. We were also not afraid, obviously because we did not realize the danger we might face. But we had nothing else to do and nowhere else to go. After taking my classmates shopping at the PX shops in Angeles and Dau, there would be nothing left to do but bring them back home and ply them with delicious Kapampangan kakanin for merienda. Thereafter, I would force them all to sleep to replenish their energy for the long night ahead of us.
Back then, the people outside Angeles regarded the city as simply one big nightclub. And who could blame them for that? Until the ’70s, there was no North Luzon Expressway, and the only way to go north was to pass through MacArthur road. On both sides of the road, you’d find women standing round the clock outside the clubs, waiting for clients. We had our version of 7-Eleven even before that convenient store hit town. Thus to passersby, Angeles was simply that – a row of clubs and women, and to think most of these women were non-Kapampangans!
In 1991, Mount Pinatubo erupted and the Americans hurriedly left, leaving a devastated Pampanga behind. Slowly, the girls and their pimps left to continue plying the oldest profession in the world elsewhere. Unfortunately, some people took advantage of the abandoned base and looted what the Americans left behind. The 16 barn houses, which were used as residences by high-ranking American officers, were stripped naked – from doors to toilet accessories. Worn out by time and neglect, they became an eyesore, fronting the open parade grounds, which was once the polo field of the US Cavalry. No one dared to touch them even with a 10-foot pole as the job seemed horrendous, especially with our cash-strapped government.
But not for Eloisa (Ely) Narciso, CDC director, businesswoman, widow and grandmother to three. Standing no more than 5’2", Ely dared to do a Herculean task that seemed insurmountable even to a giant. She envisioned the row of 16 barn houses to be a centennial block of historical Filipino heritage, highlighting Kapampangan culture and to ultimately make Clark not only an economic zone, but also a northern tourist destination.
Soft spoken and ever proper, she unselfishly led her Clark Centennial Committee and initially used her own resources to enable the project to take off. Using her 3Ts – time, talent and treasure – she and her team simultaneously renovated three barn houses – from scrubbing the floor to putting back pipes in the toilets, turning them into dream houses in just two months. Amazing isn’t it? If you see them, you may even want to rent one for a holiday (maybe it’s not a bad idea to renovate more barn houses to rent out to vacationers). I whispered to my husband Claude that I dream of having one just like that, with shining wooden floors, a high ceiling, big windows, white walls inside and outside, and a big lawn when we retire.
Working closely with her is her dear friend, no-nonsense Carmen McTavish, who, like Ely, was not put off by the red tape of a bureaucratic system. Many told them they were being quixotic and were in for a big disappointment. But that did not deter the two, and they have successfully proven that no job is difficult to those who are willing to work. At times, I wonder if God blessed them with more than 24 hours a day or with a magic wand for they had accomplished so much.
By Sept. 1, 2002, they were ready to show the product of their hard work. Together with the very supportive CDC president, Dr. Manny Angeles, they inaugurated the Clark Museum and three barn houses. The museum shows a pictorial history of Clark Field, various artifacts from the American and Japanese eras and black and white pictures of the Thomasites in the Philippines.
The Thomasites were the largest group of American educators who came to the Philippines on board a US Army Transport Thomas in 1901.
The renovated barn houses are now put to good use: An Aeta museum called Hawong, where you will find various pictures, artifacts, tools used by Aetas or Negritos; a gallery of Kapampangan artists, where artists from all over Pampanga exhibit their artworks, from paintings to modern digital art; and an exhibition hall for Kapampangan crafts, where you’d get to know an industrious race, their attention to fine detail, and the elaborate designs distinct to Kapampangan craftsmen.
The museum and the three barn houses are now open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday. Admission fee is P20 per person. Never mind if you’re only one person, the warm staff will be more than glad to give you a guided tour plus a rolling historical tour of the important sites around the base like the former Commanding Officer post, the United States Memorial Cemetery and many others. Guests from all over the country and students have been coming in droves to educate themselves and appreciate culture.
Slowly but surely, civic-minded Angeleños are cooking up a new Angeles, giving the youth a taste of culture and history, which hopefully will make them salivate for more. The youth can now tour with their friends historical sites instead of clubs. The Kapampangans now have a museum to proudly show to their guests. God willing, the other 12 barn houses will also be renovated. Ely and Carmen have taken it upon themselves to make that difference. They have boldly started, let us follow suit or, at the very least, appreciate their excellent work.
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