Modernist magic
MANILA, Philippines — Max Mara pays homage to a creative polymath whose oeuvre was overlooked for decades, and is now rediscovered. Architect, dancer, textile designer, painter and sculptor, Sophie Taeuber-Arp was that rare thing — a modernist who invested even the most everyday objects with a sense of magic and mystery.
At Cabaret Voltaire in Zurich, Taeuber-Arp and fellow artists of the avant-garde including Wassily Kandinsky, Paul Klee, Giorgio de Chirico, Max Ernst and Guillaume Apollinaire met nightly. Their performances, publications, recitals and readings played out an astonishing new aesthetic: Dada.
Taeuber-Arp’s hastily improvised costumes and the marionettes she designed for her most famous work, “King Stag,” radiate joyful energy, kinetic spirit and theatrical panache. They are fully formed fairytale characters with a charm that lies somewhere between the robotic and the animal.
Max Mara’s strong and surprising silhouettes are articulated with equal aplomb. In all the hues of a Taeuber-Arp tapestry, the collection explores playful contrasts of mini and maxi, micro and macro, skinny and outsize.
Part boot, part legging, Max Mara’s crêpe-soled knitted cuissards feature anatomically placed quilting. Mohair sweaters feature similarly articulated sleeves. Paired with a quilted nylon micro-skirt, those boots express a new dynamic. If not thigh-high, skirts are regal, bell shaped and full length — perfect with a skinny turtleneck and a balaclava.
Of course, Max Mara’s coats take center stage, perfect in form, function and finish, fit for a fairytale queen — or king. Long or short, they underline the collection’s new slouch and swagger. The stuff of dreams, Teddy Bear fabric gets a fresh look, too. We know it works very well in a coat, but who knew that it works in a tunic, a floor-sweeping skirt, even an audacious pair of shorts?
Max Mara spins a yarn with a series of chunky knits featuring striking motifs blown up and abstracted. It all adds up to a collection that fully honors Max Mara’s promise of sleek modern dressing, with a dash of Cabaret Voltaire’s whirlwind creativity and a sprinkle of magic dust.
* * *
In the Philippines, Max Mara is located in Greenbelt 3, Makati.
