The Markle Sparkle brings maverick modernity to royalty — and a new trend in bridal fashion
The fashion industry is already calling it the “Meghan effect” or the “Markle sparkle” — the new Duchess of Sussex’s ability to sell out product across all price points, whether it be a Marks & Spencer jumper (45 British pounds sterling) or a handbag she carried by small Scottish label Strathberry (495 British pounds sterling): 11 minutes after she stepped out with the bag it sold out on the company website, and kept selling out whenever stocks were replenished.
And when she stepped on the world stage last Saturday, giving her hand to Prince Harry in St. George’s Chapel, the natural question on everybody’s mind was, whom did she pick to design her dress?
Since the radiant young Suits star had emerged as an exciting new style icon in the league of her sister-in-law, Kate Middleton, many eligible names were bandied about, from Stella McCartney and Ralph & Russo to Erdem and relatively unknown Kiwi designer Emilia Wickstead.
But when Markle stepped out of Queen Elizabeth’s burgundy Mark IV Phantom Rolls-Royce, the American actress surprised everyone by picking a name that hadn’t even been in the running: Claire Waight Keller, a British-born designer notable for being the first woman to be appointed creative director of Givenchy.
“It is truly an honor to have been given the opportunity to closely collaborate with Meghan Markle on such a remarkable occasion,” Keller told Vogue Paris. “We wanted to create a timeless piece that would emphasize the iconic codes of Givenchy with sleek lines and sharp cuts.”
Markle’s choice shouldn’t have been that much of a surprise, really, considering that the 36-year-old actress has brought a maverick modernity to the royal family. She’s a feminist who first demonstrated her activism at age 11, when she wrote letters to First Lady Hillary Clinton and various women in power about a soap manufacturer’s dishwashing ad that hinted that a woman’s place was in the kitchen. Her letters actually got the multinational company to change the wording in its ad to something more gender-equal.
The new Duke and Duchess of Sussex head to their evening reception at Frogmore House: The 1968 Jaguar E-Type Concept Zero they rode in was converted into using electric power, an eco-friendly choice for the couple.
The fact that Markle, who has also spoken out about the #MeToo and #TimesUp movements, is biracial and a divorcee has brought a new inclusivity to the House of Windsor.
But her choice of dress for the wedding of the century spoke loudest of all. When Meghan finally emerged from the car to enter St. George’s Chapel, royal style watchers were torn between loving and loathing her gown’s unadorned simplicity. But a bridal dress bespeaks the wearer’s values: “I prefer simplicity. I value timelessness. Less is more. Less is modern. I’m not some unreachably chic fashion icon to be looked up to but an accessible woman of the people who cares.”
The modest-by-royal-standards 16-foot veil bore the only elaborate detail, which turned out to be loaded with meaning. It was embroidered with the flowers of Britain’s 53 commonwealth states (of which Canada, where Markle lived for seven years, is one), and held in place by another modest-by-royal-standards tiara: Queen Mary’s diamond bandeau made in 1932.
The “iconic codes of Givenchy” Keller mentioned included the gown’s bateau or boat neckline Hubert de Givenchy created for another Hollywood actress, Audrey Hepburn in the movie Sabrina (so it’s now called the Sabrina neckline, natch).
Meghan is a big fan of the boat neck, and of showing skin not in an obvious way but rather, the subtle prettiness of her neck and shoulders. She’s sported a couple of boat-neck tops on her more casual days — one of them was a nautical J. Crew striped tee she wore to go to yoga. Costing a mere US$29.50 at the American retailer, it sold out instantly, as does everything the young actress wears.
Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton has the same effect: the capacity to move product worth a billion pounds to the British fashion industry. The new Duchess of Sussex is expected to do the same — perhaps even top her sister-in-law because of her popularity in both Britain and America.
And that’s what was vividly on display last Saturday: a mixture of Americana and Britannia, modern and traditional, young and old. It’s safe to say Britain has never seen a royal wedding quite like this one: Harry and Meghan seemed determined to put their own stamp on the choice of music, guests (new British acting royalty like Idris Elba and James Corden, older pop royalty like Sir Elton John, American celebs like George Clooney and Oprah, plus sports bigwigs like David Beckham and Serena Williams), and a general vibe of youth. While the older royals seemed merely to endure the gospel brigade taking over this ceremony, at the altar, Meghan beamed while Harry grinned.
The wedding had its memorable moments, which we dutifully dote upon below.
Best Dressed
Amal Clooney looked lit and stood out from the crowd in a mustard-yellow dress by Stella McCartney and hybrid hat/fascinator by Stephen Jones. Her best accessory, of course, was debonair husband George Clooney in a dove-gray spring suit with blue shirt and pink tie.
The most Elegant
Meghan Markle’s mom, Doria Ragland, who wore a mint green coat over a simple sheath dress of the same color by Oscar de la Renta creative directors Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim. The only detail was white floral embroidery on the hem. Capping the dignified look was a small hat by Meghan’s milliner, British hat maker Stephen Jones.
The most Regal
Why, who else but the Queen! Elizabeth II epitomized spring with what the palace describes as her “delicately flared dress in lime, lemon, purple and gray printed silk” and “edge-to-edge coat with frogging fastening in lime silk tweed, both by Stuart Parvin.” Angela Kelly made the Queen’s hat using the same lime silk tweed with — get this — sinamay across the crown with handmade lace crystals and pearls made by Lucy Price. We couldn’t help noticing the large brooch on her lapel: it’s known as the Richmond Diamond Brooch with a pearl drop.
In the documentary The Queen at 90, Sophie, the Countess of Wessex, explains that the queen wears bright colors on purpose, not only because she’s petite but also because she needs to stand out for people to be able to say, “I saw the Queen.”
The Cutest
Princess Charlotte sticking out her tongue in the car while riding to the ceremony with mum Kate and waving from the top of the chapel stairs.
The most poignant moment
When Prince Harry walked with his best man, older brother Prince William, into St. George’s Chapel and down the aisle. Even if both looked dashing in their military uniforms — Harry as Captain General of the Royal Marines — onlookers were reminded of when they did the same walk as children, during the heartbreaking event of their mother, Princess Diana’s, burial.
The most fascinating fascinator
We saw a lot of embellished discs this year, but none as fascinating as the pretzel fascinator Princess Beatrice wore to Prince William’s wedding in 2011. This year our vote goes to Serena Williams, who went with husband Alexis Ohanian. Serena wore a sculpted pink fascinator to match her Versace dress, a bodycon number that hugged her athletic curves. Score stands at love.
The most heartwarming picture
The royal kiss between the newlyweds on top of the chapel stairs, under an arch of white roses, which was Princess Diana’s favorite flower.
The most American touch
In a royal wedding full of Hollywood touches — George and Amal Clooney, Oprah, even Meghan’s Suits castmates in attendance — it was the presence of The Kingdom Choir bursting into soulful gospel numbers Stand By Me and Etta James’ This Little Light of Mine that lent the event a particularly American flavor. By acknowledging her own half-black identity, Markle also managed to add some foot-stomping fun to a typically staid British affair. (And in fact, the various hairdos of the gospel choir might have been more fascinating than the fascinators on display.)
The surprise guest
Sarah Ferguson, more popularly known as Fergie, the Duchess of York. After a few tabloid scandals that brought shame to the royal family, including being photographed with other men while being married to Prince Andrew, Fergie was not invited to Prince William and Kate Middleton’s wedding. However, Prince Harry is reportedly close to her daughter, Princess Eugenie, so Fergie was invited and turned up all smiles in a navy ensemble and fascinator.
The most defining moment
When Markle walked solo down the aisle, in essence giving herself away since father Thomas Markle couldn’t attend due to health reasons.
“This is very meaningful, and it will change wedding traditions,” said The Royal We author Jessica Morgan. “Meghan is an outspoken, independent woman — a completely new type of princess.”
In another break with tradition, Prince Charles met Markle halfway down the aisle and escorted her to an expectant Prince Harry, who looked totally entranced and told her, “You look amazing.”
The best groomed
A rousing football cheer goes to David Beckham for looking the coolest in a Dior Homme coat with tails, a watch chain hanging from his vest and perfectly manscaped scruff.
The most yawn-inducing dress
While nobody bent it like Beckham, wife Victoria was unfortunately underwhelming in an austere, almost nunnish dark blue dress of her own making, a pillbox fascinator and a worried look on her face. You needn’t have looked so worried, Posh. You were attending a wedding, not a funeral.
The most eye-catching hat
Camilla Parker-Bowles’ Philip Treacy hat gets our vote.
The best ensemble
Suits stars in suits? Total no-brainer. Markle’s girlfriends from her TV show flashed the Brits some Hollywood razzle dazzle: Priyanka Chopra suited up in Vivienne Westwood topped by a Philip Treacy hat; and Abigail Spencer wore a dotty (in a very good way) dress by Alessandra Rich.
A breath of spring air
Much more low-key than when she stole the show at the wedding of her sister, Kate Middleton, to Prince William, Pippa Middleton seemed to want to blend in more with the gardens surrounding Windsor Castle in an off-the-rack floral mint dress from The Fold. Under her blush-pink fascinator, even her braided updo will probably set trends. That’s what you call the “right” of spring.
The comic relief
As the radiant bride stood in the doorway and the horn players started blasting the fanfare, one of the page boys holding her veil — either Brian or John Mulroney, the identical twin sons of Markle’s best friend, Jessica Mulroney — broke out into a delighted smile that was missing some teeth. By breaking the solemnity of the moment, the charming little photobomber immediately went viral.