Mai Mai Cojuangco designs her dream bags

One of Manila’s prettiest women — turned Italian resident, Mai Mai Cojuangco is back with a project close to her heart: Demetria, a highly exclusive collection of bags she designed for Rica Lorenzo’s Idée Clothing Store, and they mark a new stage in Mai Mai’s life.

Back in the ’90s she was the “it” girl. The fourth daughter of former Tarlac Congressman Jose “Peping” Cojuangco and former Tarlac Governor Margarita “Tingting” Cojuangco modeled for Benetton — family friend Virgie Ramos even did a tri-media Benetton campaign for her.

She moved to Florence, Italy, over 15 years ago; studied bag and accessory making at San Colombano; had an adorable daughter, Demi, who’s now seven; and founded a startup around a social media app, Sympies, which allows users to post about #lifechallenges without fear of judgment or reprisals.

“My life in Italy now is about doing mother duties, driving, homework,” Mai Mai says. “Right now I’m doing things that I like.”

Rica Lorenzo, chair and CEO of Lapanday Foods Corporation, her family’s export company, founded Idée as a way to indulge her love of fashion. While Pepito Albert is Idée’s main clothing designer, for accessories Rica has worked with a number of guest designers like Bea Valdes and Neil Felipp.

Her collaboration with Mai Mai began when Mai’s sister, Pin Cojuangco-Guingona, who’s a regular Idée customer, found out Rica was going to Florence.

“She goes, ‘My sister lives there! Why don’t you get together with her? Maybe you can do something together,’” relates Rica. “So I said, sure.”

That was eight months ago. Since that first meeting, Mai Mai has put most of her energies into designing Demetria, ensuring that they’re unlike any other designer bags out there and — like a classic car or a great bottle of wine — that they’re made to last, age gracefully, and retain their beautiful character over time.

PHILIPPINE STAR: What’s the story behind the name Demetria?

Mai Mai Cojuangco: Demetria is my grandmother’s name, it’s my name, and that’s my daughter’s name. 

Rica Lorenzo: And it’s now the name of a bag. So there are now four Demetrias. 

Mai Mai: My daughter said, “Mommy!” Because there’s a line called Demi, and that’s my favorite. That’s why I called it Demi as well. With Idée you get three styles: one is Demi; one is the Bucket with the silk scarf closure; and Sempre is the big one because sempre means “always” — it’s a bag that you carry every day. 

Rica: “Mai” in Italian means “never.” The bag Sempre means “always,” so somehow they match.

Mai Mai: (Laughs) I didn’t realize it’s a match! There is an “Always” bag, and the one who created it was “Never,” which is me in Italian. 

How did you find your artisans?

Mai Mai: Well, I used to work with them. I did the modelleria, kind of a working experience. I went to school on how to make bags and worked with them for three years, so when Idée came up, I went back to the people I used to work with and said, “Do you know who can help me produce the bags?” I found a great match — all women — three of them so enthusiastic but they all work so well together, it’s such a happy environment, very positive like a family. They said, “Let’s do it!”

Where do you source your leather?

Mai Mai: A pelletteria in Tuscany.

Were you influenced by Italian style in designing these bags?

Mai Mai: I can’t isolate what is Italian style that’s in me or Filipino style that’s in me because in the age of social media, news and everything, you just pick up unconsciously or even from people, like your necklace now. But I came up with bags that I am sure aren’t out there, aside from the fact that in my head I said, “What would I love to wear that’s not out there?”

What are some of the features that make them special?

Mai Mai: In the Sempre, for example, all the metal accessories were created especially for Idée, and only people who can make bags see how difficult it is to make because construction, scientifically, you have to sew the inside of the bag, so actually the lining of all the bags is leather as well.

RICA: It’s like a bag within a bag.

Mai Mai: Yes, very luxurious. One day I would like to be in Net-A-Porter and nothing there that is made like this would go for less than €2000 (Demetria bags are half the price, ranging from P49,800 to P59,800), because of the way they’re made, and the quantity. In the Sempre line, in front, it’s very subtle, very chic — it’s a rivet that’s covered in leather and everything is made by hand. So there are real subtle details there that make them really special.

What about the scarf closures in the Bucket bag?

Mai Mai: I handpicked them. Each bag is different, because it has a different scarf. The scarf accentuates and creates that look: you know how women like to match their outfits with the color of the bag. Each scarf has different colors so they’re easy to match, and since there are only eight of them, I went to vintage shops with new silk scarves and I found a Celine, a Gucci, a Dior… so all those scarves are designer silk scarves that aren’t even produced anymore. So each bag has its own personality.

How long does it take to make one bag?

Mai Mai: Oh, that’s difficult to say, but even the bucket bag — it looks simple but since I’m crazy and I know what’s difficult to make...

Rica: …You just had to make it as difficult as you possibly could.

Mai Mai: Because I know how bags are made, right, so I said, “I want to hide this, I want to show this.” So when I showed the ladies the designs, they were like, “You’re crazy!” I said, “Let’s try anyway.” Because they have to sew it, then open the lining again to sew the underneath, so it’s not like you sew everything, put the lining and it’s done.

Why did you insist on this process?

Mai Mai: Because I like challenges, and I like making beautiful things.

Rica, do you have a personal favorite?

Rica: The small one (Demi), but in the end it’s the meaning that you attach to the bag. You have all these bags that you spend a lot of money on, but there’s no story to them, no premium to your owning them. You have a personal connection to the bag when you know that each bag was painstakingly cared for by the one who designed and made it.

Mai Mai: And in the end, they’re all very practical. All bags come with additional straps because we’re women and we need our hands and we are multi-taskers.

What’s the first thing you look for in a bag?

Mai Mai: Practicality. That’s why I use Sempre the most often because it’s an everyday bag, like you just throw stuff inside. I like my bags aging, I like them scratched, but to have beautifully scratched and old bags that stay beautiful, you need great leather, and I see these bags going that way.

What do you enjoy more, designing apps or bags?

Mai Mai: Both. Because I don’t have to choose, right? Women have that talent where we can do everything we want to, right?

What has living in Florence taught you about style?

Mai Mai: Well, I’m just exposed to a different culture, a different way of dressing, maybe, but we also have different weather there and at the end we have no choice but to dress based on where we live.

Have you seen your style evolve, from the ’90s to now?

Mai Mai: Yes, but not so, because at the end it’s still the T-shirt and jeans and then just really cool accessories, like I wear a turban sometimes. 

How often do you come back to Manila?

Mai Mai: When I have to, when I can, when my daughter’s on vacation also because when she’s in school I’m with her: I drive, I do the whole bit.

Is her wardrobe all Benetton?

Mai Mai: No, no. (Laughs)

Does she copy your style?

Mai Mai: Yes, she does. She tries on my shoes, my clothes — it’s that age. I’m very okay with it; I’m not one of those moms that say, “No, that’s going to break!” I just let her have fun with it.

You seem to be enjoying your role as a mom. Do you still have time for yourself?

Mai Mai: Yes, I do have time to do everything I want to do.

How is life now away from home?

Mai Mai: I’m all right. As they say in Italy, “Palle,” right? You just bring out the balls when you have to. You just rise to the challenge and you just move on.

What are your plans?

Mai Mai: Only going forward. I would just like to say that anyone who has passion — especially women — they shouldn’t be afraid. They should just try and be fearless about life. Everyone I know is always scared, but life is so short. I think we can do everything if we have the passion, the desire.

What do you see yourself doing five years from now and where would you probably be?

Mai Mai: I see myself as a global citizen, constantly traveling. I don’t know what I’d be doing then but I know what I wish for, and that is success and much more. I like to focus on the bags because that’s my passion and forte. I’m diving and swimming in fashion.

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Demetria bags are available at Idée – A Clothing Store, 2263 Pasong Tamo Extension, Lapanday Center, Makati. Follow @ideeclothingstore on Facebook and Instagram.