Louis Vuitton: History on your shoulder (bag)?
A peek into the Louis Vuitton world, beyond its collection of “be-seen-with” totes, luggage, and trunks, is one based on more than 170 years in the business of articles de voyage. I had the privilege of witnessing how Louis Vuitton involves its past to define its present. I visited two LV homes — one in a suburb north of Paris, and the other in Rome.
Asniéres, France
In 1859, Louis Vuitton built his home in Asniéres, in the suburbs north of Paris. He also built a factory at the back. His family stayed in this beautiful art nouveau house until 1983. Today, the salon welcomes guests and exhibits the family’s historical collection of early travel products. The factory manufactures bespoke orders placed through the Haute Maroquinerie salons located in large boutiques around the world. Patrick Louis Vuitton, his great-great grandson, heads this facility.
Louis Vuitton was born in 1821 in Anchay, France. At 21, he left for Paris and worked as a packer (he was one of 400 packers at that time), someone who built custom-made wooden boxes used for travel. The second half of the 19th century ushered travel via carriages, trains, and ships. When they traveled, the wealthy brought their complete wardrobes — even books, porcelain, and carpets — with them.
Louis Vuitton’s luggage improved on what was then the norm. He created a canvas with a special waterproof coating that is fused to poplar wood, light but sturdy. His design allowed the stacking of these rigid, compartmentalized boxes, and allowed travelers to bring multiple boxes at a time. He paid great attention to metallic detail, resulting in products that are durable, travel-worthy, and stylish.
The Empress Eugenie, wife of Emperor Napoleon III, took notice of Vuitton’s innovations and appointed him to be her official maroquinier (leather worker) and packer. Because of this, the demand for his luggage increased and he moved to Asniéres. When it was acceptable for women to go to town unescorted by their husbands, they needed purses to put their belongings in. Ever the entrepreneur, he took this opportunity to expand the business and made handbags.
In Asniéres, the business of the made-to-order bag, luggage, or trunk is taken very seriously. A team of 250 artisans works here. Average years of experience: 23. Leather, whether cowhide or exotic skin, is stored at a constant 20-degree temperature. Disciplined production includes the cutting of boards and leather, fusing canvas onto wood, painting the tips of metal parts, testing covers, which should open and close without hinges, and more.
One-of-a-kind orders received from Haute Maroquinerie salons take two to six months to produce, depending on the size and kind of leather. Defined by the client’s preference for skins, requirements, (number of drawers, hangers, etc.), taste and fancy, an LV container can be manufactured. A PlayStation box, a tattoo box, a folding bed in a box, a camera box, and more have been ordered and completed.
