Hussein Chalayan: Fashion is a reflection of how we live

Singapore – “I explore ideas. I’m an ideas person,” said Hussein Chalayan during the Asia Fashion Summit 2013 in a conversation with Colin McDowell. The Asia Fashion Exchange has been gaining influence as the regional fashion hub. This year, no less than fashion force Hussein Chalayan closed the Audi Fashion Festival with his unique approach to fabric and constant experimentation with technology in his creations.

One of the event’s highlights, the Asia Fashion Summit (AFS), “provides a platform for fashion and retail professionals from Singapore and the region to acquire knowledge, network and exchange ideas,” said Tan Kai Hoe, SPRING Singapore. Themed “Asia’s Fashion Moment,” AFS 2013 showcased trends, best practices and innovation around three broad areas: elevating service, brand experience and productivity.

Fashion leaders from around the globe shared their expertise with the likes of group president for South Asia, Southeast Asia and Middle East LVMH, Ravi Thakran who discussed “Going for the Growth in the World of Change.” Jennifer Fall, Asia brand director of Galeries Lafayette, Wayne Milano, senior vice president Asia of Abercrombie & Fitch, and Darren Watson, creative director, FITCH Southeast Asia and Greater China gave pointers on creating compelling store experiences. The online shopping experience and the fast evolving online shopper was discussed by Harry Markl, regional managing director of Zalora Southeast Asia, Stephanie Phair, managing director of The Outnet.Com and Malcolm Pinkerton, senior e-commerce analyst of Planet Retail.

There also was Daniel Saynt, CEO and chief creative officer of Socialyte who specializes in emerging technologies and influencer marketing. He has helped direct social media campaigns for Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Harry Winston, H&M and, more recently, Rebecca Minkoff who just won Designer of the Year at the American Apparel and Footwear Association Awards in New York. Social media has now become a powerful tool to influence consumers and to drive purchases through native advertising or marketing messages disguised as compelling stories, shared experiences and rich media. He discussed this further with “The Greatest Story Ever Sold: How the World’s Fashion Leaders Tell a Story.” He stressed the importance of brand establishment and sustainability with his last takeaway point, “Sex is good but love is better.”

Another notable speaker, Mercedes Gonzalez, an international retail strategies expert and founder and director of Global Purchasing Companies, shared her industry know-how and tricks of the trade, as well as the “Five Retailing Trends You Will Want to Watch.” For her, it is key to change the game by taking risks with new strategies. “If you want to accomplish something, you must first expect it of yourself,” said Gonzalez.

“Almost every time, I find a woman inspiring. Everything about her is sort of a package for me. Women raised me predominantly. A single and simple mom raised me. Grandmothers and aunts surrounded me. They were quite strong women. I guess this is why I am so interested in women and the empowerment of women,” said Chalayan in an on-stage conversation with Colin McDowell at the AFS.

With his 30-year experience as a fashion designer, teacher and journalist, McDowell interviewed Chalayan on his design, inspirations and influences. While some of his best known designs include a coffee-table-turned-wooden-skirt, an entire collection made from envelope paper, and airplane-inspired silhouettes, Chalayan stressed, “What is more meaningful for me is to see people wearing my clothes — not the showpieces.” Known for his sharp tailoring, minimalist aesthetic, innovative and experimental designs, Chalayan was named British Designer of the Year twice. He has designed capsule collections for Topshop and Marks & Spencer. He is currently creative director of German sportswear label Puma. Last year, he launched the Chalayan Grey Line, a sister collection to runway Chalayan Black Line. “Fashion for me is a reflection of how we live.”

 â€œI was always interested in the impossible — something that would challenge me or to create combinations that are unlikely,” he adds which is clearly seen in each of his collections. For his fall 2013, a series dubbed as “Rise and the Constant Need to Escape,” Chalayan took inspiration from the textural and raw effect of peeling walls. The runway began with meticulously tailored tomboy dressing — denim pants, drainpipe trousers, oversized jackets all cut with his signature pleats. “I had a first cousin who lived above us who was a real tomboy. She was really feminine but also boyish at the same time. I loved that juxtaposition. She was very influential.” Celebrating the female form, laser-cutouts in a kaleidoscope of colors with hourglass and asymmetric shapes followed.

Toward the end, a tug at the neckline transformed one piece into another dress altogether. Chalayan successfully converted his intellectual concepts into real urban outfits. “Now my focus is on reaching more people with actual collections and the showpieces are there in a way to tell the story. There is a duality there that I would like to keep — that I find exciting. Ultimately, you have to create a balance — a collection that is sellable and sustainable. Otherwise, you will be constantly chasing a tail that is meaningless,” said Chalayan.

What is inspiring to know is that despite Chalayan’s success, he constantly struggles through daily life like us ordinary folks. He attributes this enduring force to self-belief, patience and perseverance. “If you have an idea that you strongly believe in, you have to live it,” Chalayan stressed. Striking a balance between creativity and commerce is the key to triumph and stability.

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E-mail Joyce Oreña at jo@joyceorena.com or follow her on Twitter @joyceorena.