The Asian evolution

Times are definitely changing.

Fashion is experiencing an Asian evolution, although it is true that  back in the ‘80s, Japanese designers — Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Issey Miyake — have already penetrated the high-end fashion scene in Paris. Their avant-garde designs paved the way for this recent Asian influx.

An increasing number of young designers with Asian origins are dominating the global fashion industry today. In 2010, the Council of Fashion Designers of America awarded all three categories of the American fashion awards to designers of Asian descent for the first time. The best new designers of that year were Richard Chai for men’s wear, Jason Wu for women’s wear, and Alexander Wang for accessories.

It seems that Asians are becoming such an influential force in the industry today.

Take for instance Alexander Wang, who is the first ever Asian to head a European design house.  At 29, Alexander Wang took over Nicolas Ghuesquière’s post as head of the house of Balenciaga. Wang grew up in California with his Taiwanese parents. Before his appointment though, Wang had already made a mark in the industry with his own successful line.

Then there’s Taiwan-born Jason Wu, who won the First Lady of the United States’ heart twice over. Michelle Obama chose to wear Wu’s design for the 2009 and 2013 Inauguration Ball. This time, Wu created a red cross-halter neck chiffon gown with velvet details. Wu also has successful collaborations with Nordstrom and Target for moderately priced ensembles.

The stylish First Lady seems to favor Asian designers, as seen in other pieces she has worn — from Peter Som to Thakoon, Prabal Gurung, Vera Wang and just recently, Monique Lhuillier.

Last April 27, at the White House Correspondent’s Dinner, Michelle Obama chose a black Monique Lhuillier lace top with beading on the collarbone and fitted cap sleeves. Lhuillier tweeted, “I am honoured  that Michell Obama is wearing me to the White House correspondence dinner tonight!! She looks amazing!!! xxMonique.” Fashion journalist Laurie Brookins added via Twitter, “Details in Mrs. O’s @M_Lhuillier gown at #WHCD tonight: a black beaded/draped chiffon goddess gown with high neckline in Chantilly lace…”

Lhuillier grew up in the Philippines and moved to Los Angeles to attend the Fashion Institute for Design and Merchandising. She launched her first bridal collection in 1996. She has not looked back since. Countless celebrities have come to her for their wedding gowns, from Carrie Underwood to Reese Witherspoon, and red carpet events from Jennifer Gardener to Jennifer Goodwin and Padma Lakshmi.

Singapore-born Prabal Gurung who was raised in Kathmandu, Nepal, moved to New York to finish his studies at Parsons. Soon after, he worked with Cynthia Rowley’s design team. Then, he became the design director of Bill Blass until he launched his own label. Last February, his collaboration with Target was a smash hit. Just like Missoni, it almost completely sold out in a day and many pieces from the collection are already sold on eBay.

In 2009, Thailand-born Thakoon Panichgul got the most exposure in the documentary film on Vogue magazine, The September Issue. He graduated with a business degree from Boston University in 1997 and worked as a merchandiser for J. Crew. He also wrote for Harper’s Bazaar until he began night courses at Parsons School for Design to follow his true calling. Since then, he has collaborated with Gap, Target, Hogan and Tasaki, a Japanese fine jeweler.

Phillip Lim who was born in Thailand started his women’s fashion line in 2005. The 3.1 Phillip Lim brand now includes menswear and accessories to its steadily growing business. In 2012, he received the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Swarovski award for menswear.

US-born Derek Lam with Chinese-American parents started his one line in 2002 after 12 years at Michael Kors. He also worked at Tod’s as the creative director for ready-to-wear and accessories.

Another alliance worth watching is a Tibetan-Korean tandem, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, who teamed up in 2002to open their New York boutique, Opening Ceremony. They have been named as the creative directors of French fashion house Kenzo, established in 1970 by Japanese designer Kenzo Takada. The likes of Jerry Hall and Grace Jones have worn Kenzo’s voluminous color-blocked ethnic-inspired clothes.

Derek Lam, Thakoon Panichgul, Phillip Lim, Prabal Gurung, Doo-ri Chung, Jason Wu, Alexander Wang, Richard Chai, Peter Som, and Monique Lhuillier are among the new breed of designers with Asian roots in fashion today.

But before this recent Asian wave, there already were well-known names in fashion with Asian descent like Yeohlee, Vera Wang, Josie Natori, Vivienne Tam and Anna Sui.

The secret to this Asian evolution is talent and work ethic.

The new breed of Asian designers successfully fuses modernity with the complexity of couture. Their heritage reference is more about an overall cultural aesthetics. They have a clear understanding of the global fashion market — its sensibility and lifestyle.

Now, being Asian is a fashionable commodity.

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E-mail Joyce Oreña at jo@joyceorena.com or follow her on Twitter @joyceorena.