London tea time with Mobo

One fine afternoon in London, my friend Ariel Lozada and I went to the National Portrait Gallery. To while away the time, we walked around and admired collection after collection of paintings, sculptures and miniatures of famous people in British history.

It was an appropriate setting because in a few minutes, we were going to meet with a friend — a Filipino who is working very hard to establish a respectable reputation for himself in the British society. He is Lesley Mobo, a celebrated London-based Filipino designer whom Ariel and I will be working with for his first-ever gala show in Manila.

Over tea, the three of us had a great time catching up and talking about our upcoming project, where Lesley will showcase his spring/summer 2013 collection. We also discussed the event’s beneficiary, which can take inspiration from Lesley’s life story.

Lesley gladly shared his experiences from when he was still a student taking up BA and MA in Fashion at the prestigious Central St. Martins. One of his classmates was American designer Zac Posen, who, together with their other classmates, would discuss his art influences over lunch. This made Lesley aware that the Philippines’ local curriculum gives inadequate attention to arts and humanities, which led him to yearn for more knowledge in this field. Realizing that it is important for him as a designer to have an expansive knowledge of fashion as well as the arts, he spent hours poring over art books to catch up.

A working student, Lesley was tempted to quit the program because he was worried he didn’t put in as many hours as he wanted in school. However, the head of the program, Louise Wilson (who counts Christopher Kane, Alexander McQueen, and John Galliano as among those who cut their teeth with her) had such faith in him and encouraged him to finish his MA. Despite all the challenges he had to face, Lesley became one of the few who finished the course in his batch.

Kaye Tinga: Tell us about your first few years in UK as a student and budding fashion designer. Was it difficult?

Lesley Mobo: I’ve been asked this question a number of times, and it always comes down to the same thing. Yes, – I would not deny that the early years spent in the UK were difficult, both financially and competitively, but you have to follow your dream and that, together with my friends and colleagues, is what carried me through.

Was it challenging to design pieces of clothing that are rarely or never used in the Philippines (like winter clothes)?

No, not really.  It’s the designer’s job and my five-year training at St. Martin’s was very thorough. The experience of working in a global market, which included countries that are much more seasonal than the Philippines, was also helpful.  I learned about winter coats very quickly in my first cold UK winter, which seemed to be arctic after so many years at home!

Can you compare London’s fashion scene with that of the Philippines?

Firstly, as we have identified, London’s fashion is based more on necessity because they are more seasonal.  The competition here, too, is enormous and a constant pressure as it’s one of the three main European fashion centers (the others being Milan and Paris). Many Filipino designers have therefore been able to concentrate on the more original and creative market of made-to–measure while most European designers are caught up in the ceaseless battle for the ready-to-wear market.

Are there any British designers you admire or look up to? How about Filipino designers?

McQueen and Galliano were massive influences on me when I was younger and they’re actually one of the main reasons I set my heart on studying in the same college in the UK.  It was a milestone for me when I was in my second year at St. Martin’s that I was interviewed for the House of John Galliano and Dior. Although fashion inevitably moves on, they will always remain huge heroes for me. In almost the same breath, I have to admire Inno Sotto, whom I consider to exert almost equal influence on me.

How does it feel to be a Filipino who made it big in the international fashion scene?

Filipino creativity always has the potential to succeed globally. I am just lucky to be able to make a living on a more international platform, but I’ve never forgotten my roots.

Describe a typical day for you. Can you give us a run-through of your daily activities?

At a glance, the life of a fashion designer may seem glamorous.  After all, your head is always consumed by ideas of beauty all the time.  I am very hands-on – from product research, sketches, consumer research, product development, sourcing, and quality control to the models wearing the garments for Lookbook shoots, etc. It is an exciting job, but it can be demanding as well. 

One thing that is true about working in this industry is that we designers always pay our dues. This may mean going to bed very late. I usually begin at 9 a.m., and the day may not even end at 2 a.m. But because I love what I’m doing, I hardly perceive this as a negative aspect of the work.

Being a fashion designer is not just about sitting around and sketching all day. The daily job may include visiting suppliers and manufacturers (I deal mainly with Chinese and British factories) to pick out the best finishing or fabrics for the collection. This may involve searching through countless bolts of fabrics and trimmings to find the perfect color and texture. Once the fabrics are found, ordered and purchased, we usually ask the factory to cut and sew prototypes (so there is a lot of phoning and e-mailing to do every single day). 

There are a lot of details involved if you are doing a ready-to-wear collection every season. Our label Mobo deals directly with buyers and manufacturing professionals who will always want to know the production and product development cost of each piece in the collection. 

I usually start my morning with a brief meeting with my business partner Michael Bowden (co-founder of my label Mobo) to discuss budget, targets and calendar.

My afternoons are mainly spent dealing with specification sheets (another daily chore). These help simplify manufacturing of every piece and ensure that the finished pieces are executed correctly at the right price points. A basic specification sheet may include a front and back sketch, a description, sample size, photo shoot size, fabric swatch, fiber composition, lining and trimming information, delivery date, size range, and style number of every piece.

Each day as a fashion designer is exciting and challenging and you will find that a day in the life of a fashion designer is rarely boring.

What will be the next step for you after your gala show in Manila? Will you be opening your own boutique in the Philippines?

There is always much in the pipeline and one always chases opportunities like this to work creatively. I also believe in taking advantage of chances like this, which would allow me to enhance the language of my own label, and stimulate interest and discussion.  My recent successful collaborations with Bench (Mobo for Bench Body) gave everyone an opportunity to access the Mobo language for themselves.  There are no immediate plans to open a dedicated boutique, but in the future, who knows?  It would certainly be rewarding to provide a point of sales where Filipino fashion lovers could access a wider selection of my label from high-end down to more affordable ready-made clothes. 

Given the choice, would you retire in the Philippines or in the UK?  Why?

There are no immediate plans for retirement. When the time comes, I think it would be more ideal to be based here in London so that I will have access to the exciting cultural opportunities a city like that has to offer together. At the same time, I think I would prefer to have a peaceful island hideaway in the Philippines, where I can return to my roots, get some quiet (and warmth!) and put my feet up with my friends and family.

Are you excited about your upcoming gala show in Manila?

This is my first big show in Manila since the successful Bravo Filipino Festival in 2008.  It’s my 10th anniversary in the business of fashion design and I can’t think of a more suitable way to celebrate.

What was your reaction when you found out that you’re being invited to hold your first-ever gala show in your mother country?

I’ve studied and worked in London since leaving the Philippines in 1999, but the Philippines will always be home.  I have so many friends and family in the Philippines and it’s great to be given the opportunity to share with them the joys of my work.

What made you agree to the partnership?

The colleagues.  I have worked with Ariel Lozada on many projects and I know that it would work. The opportunity to work with you is also a very welcome bonus.

Are you more pressured or challenged that your audience will be your fellow Filipinos?

Of course!  There is nothing more difficult than having to impress your fellow-men.  I have had such a lot of support from Filipinos despite being based in the UK, and I really feel the responsibility to bring something exciting and original for them to see.

What makes your gala show a must-see for fashion enthusiasts?

Well, first and foremost, we are supporting a very important charity.  Also, much of my career so far has been spent working for brands, so the gala show is an opportunity for enthusiasts to see what excites me personally.