Woman of Style: Easy does it with Lulu Tan-Gan

When I interviewed designer Lulu Tan-Gan for a magazine feature eight years ago, she was wearing a brightly-colored knit caftan of her own design over cut-off shorts and heels. It’s good to know that things haven’t changed: Lulu still has the figure to rock skimpy shorts and is still producing those wonderful, light knit pieces that have become her signature.

In a 30-year career, which she started with SM Department Store, Lulu Tan-Gan has given women fashion that serves in more ways than one, mostly made out of knit, which she has given a deserving makeover and tropicalized in such a way that they are now seen in other styles beyond the fabric’s usual twin set possibilities. The timeless appeal and no-ironing-necessary qualities of the tactile fabric prompts her to keep on producing stylish variations that don’t require fireplaces and below-zero climates. Lulu has made knit into palazzo pants, clingy sundresses, hankerchief-style tops with low backs, ponchos, caftans, tank tops and even Bermuda shorts. She combines her style vision with a real knowledge of the market she creates for: practical, cosmopolitan women who lead busy lives and often balance a hectic job with parenting. Women who travel often and don’t want to bother with hotel housekeeping bills. Women who prefer no-brainer, easy-wear dressing. Women just like her.

Even after all these years, the Madonna School of Fashion alum is far from slowing down. In both home and work. She takes care of a huge, Mediterranean-style, two-story house — and four canine pets (the portly beagle Buster, the aged basset hound Sophia, the sluggish golden retriever Rufus and the shy German pointer Indi) — without the benefit of household help, but does so in between producing collections for the Tan-Gan brand, setting up shoots and looking over her boutiques. “I’m always up to my neck in something, which is why I’m so used to working even on Sundays,” she says, quite cheerfully.

These days, she’s quite focused on another one of her knit variations. This time she combines it with piña. And Lulu is hoping to do with the local fabric what she did with knit: modernize it, make it relevant and make it accessible to a larger market. She first started showing her piña pieces, which she has dubbed piñawear, in her Fashion Watch show a year ago, fashioning them into feminine tank tops, deconstructed dresses and diaphanous tops. She also combined knit and piña in a short, modernized terno, one with detachable sleeves and ragged hem. She’s also set on combining the two to create fuss-free bridal wear for destination weddings. “I want pieces that a bride can bring anywhere and not have to worry too much about the transportation of her gown.”

Lulu Tan-Gan is set to show off a more extensive collection in her upcoming solo show this November. She talks more about piñawear and her style quirks in a brief interview.

Philippine Star: Describe your signature style.

Experimental. I like to mix pieces from different labels. I also try different cuts and don’t really conform to what’s trendy. Timeless pieces are important to keep and you eventually find your style.

Apart from your own designs, who else do you wear?

Quite a broad range. I love my fellow Filipino designers: Puey Quiñones, Kate Torralba, Inno Sotto, Jojie Lloren, Ivar Aseron, Dennis Lustico and Cesar Gaupo. I still also wear retro pieces from Loreto. Watch out for Solenn Heusaff, my protégé — she has an extended and easy knit line for Tan-Gan. I would love to try several more designers but I just haven’t found the time.

How about foreign labels?

Of the foreign labels, Westwood for gowns, Yohji Yamamoto for shirts, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Nicole Miller. For RTW, I like Dries van Noten, Vanessa Bruno, Calvin Klein, Bottega Venetta (how luxuriously minimal), Lacoste (their dresses only), and Kookai. It’s actually a wide range.

What’s the one clothing piece you can never get enough of?

Maybe scarves. I love scarves but I lose them too. Terrible!

What will you never wear?

Grunge!

What’s the craziest thing you’ve worn?

I don’t think I’ve ever worn anything crazy…Oh, maybe I did — 20 years ago. Mang Ben (Farrales) made me a white silk terno. I requested for it to be a micro-mini. He looked half-stern and smiling. I wore it to Maynila at the Manila Hotel. I think it was for the launch of Picasso Perfune and Paloma Picasso came to launch it.

And what’s the craziest thing you’ve designed?

I think I’ve always been a sensible designer. I may have been ahead of my time some years ago but never crazy. I also think I design for women who are confident and who can dress creatively.

Do you have a signature scent?

It depends on what I’m wearing. Chanel, Loulou for when I’m wearing something casual and feminine. Issey Miyake when I’m in something linear and minimalist and Angel by Thierry Mugler when I’m wearing more structured clothes.

How about a signature lip color?

I love hot neon pink when it suits my outfit but for daily wear, burgundy red.

What do you like doing in your free time?

Travel or just stay in my bed.

Favorite haunt?

None in particular. Anything unfamiliar.

Who is the most inspiring person you’ve met?

I’ve read about inspirational icons but have yet to meet one that will jolt me.

And what was the most inspiring place you’ve visited?

Paris is still my favorite, but there are just too many tourists.

What’s the most frustrating thing about being a designer in Manila?

The market. We have a small market in Manila. I wish we had as many tourists and expats as other Asian cities. We also seem to have less of our own balikbayans.

What is the one thing that is keeping the Philippine fashion industry from really moving forward?

Lack of vision and will. (The industry is) in need of a good leader.

Who of the local young designers do you think will be the next big thing?

Honestly, I haven’t seen enough of the young designers to make any comment. I should watch Fashion Week at SMX. (Just to be clear, young means under 26 years old.)

What would you consider your biggest fashion mistake?

Business-wise, it would be not living abroad.

If you were to retire as a designer, what would be your next career?

I really don’t know but I will continue to work with anything related to creativity. There is this sense of freedom — it allows me to be myself.

Were there times when you seriously considered retiring from fashion?

Several times.

What has been your biggest achievement as an individual?

I’ve never really thought about it. Maybe, I’ve raised good children.

And as a designer?

After too many years, I am still around and inspired. (Laughs)

What project are you working on now?

Tan-Gan will be launching piña wear, from contemporary easy pieces to bridal wear designed for destination weddings. Knit will still be around. The launch will be on November 10 at the NBC Tent and the fee will be waived for a good cause: to raise funds for Ondoy victims.

Is it hard to work with piña?

There are so many procedures involved in creating this collection. We process the piña, dye it, put in the prints (some are inspired by Mindanao weaves), create them into designs and then embellish. There’s a lot of work involved.

Do you still remember the very first thing you ever designed?

It was knit and I think it was the color green. It was in a magazine and I’ve lost the copy!

If you were to recreate it now, how would it look?

It would be lighter and more sheer. More “now.” Although, knit will always have its timeless appeal.