Marc Jacobs returns to the feminine Forties
MANILA, Philippines - Marc Jacobs returns to the Forties theme for his prefall 2009 collection for Louis Vuitton. As autumn leaves start to fall, the mood becomes simpler, the silhouettes softer, the colors more subdued. What remains is luxury — the lace and the rich embroideries.
The focus shifts from the shoulders to the waist, with belted coats and fitted jackets, the latter balanced by pencil-slim or full ballerina skirts, nodding to a Forties’ hourglass figure. Ladylike sleeves stop just above the waist, while cropped pants reveal a well-turned ankle. In this feminine collection, dresses naturally play a leading role.
Blue, burgundy and beige are joined in the color palette by the season’s staple charcoal gray.
A sweeping silk gown is delicately edged with lace, another is lavishly encrusted with tone-on-tone embroideries, while a shocking pink cocktail dress teasingly reveals its black lining. Velvet stars on a revisited tuxedo, which acquires a nonchalant air with wide cropped pants and a jacket worn open over a white ruffled blouse.
The season’s standout ribbon motif makes its way into accessories, including felted wool hairclips and a high-waist belt in supple Monogram-embossed suede. Retro-chic sunglasses and a short mink polka dot scarf are other variations on the Forties theme, which fashion jewelry takes to extremes with a play on elaborately beaded outsize brooches.
Shoes tower on oversized platforms and high, slender heels, further elongating the season’s elegant silhouette. In keeping with the spirit of the collection, they are given a sophisticated evening feel in richly colored satin and velvet, embellished with bows, tassels and sequined embroidery. The preciousness is subverted, however, by the fact that many of the looks are worn with socks.
Reinterpreting summer’s emblematic Kalahari style, the bag of the season comes with supple pleats, tassels and a drawstring in a mix of shiny leather and soft Monogram-embossed suede in muted autumnal hues of taupe and brown.
The Louis Vuitton Prefall collection will be available this June.
In the Philippines, Louis Vuitton is exclusively available at its boutique in Greenbelt 4, Ayala Center, Makati.
