Go loud, wear it proud

Now there are more key accessories to focus on, like funky belts and oversized eyewear.

Leggings are still the in thing. Hats can be haute, too. And if you were tuned into Alexander McQueen and Gaultier, a mask is another, if rather dramatic, way to complement your outfit. In other words, accessorizing can be a much more exciting affair than just having a status bag to make you feel dressed.

Headgear

The cloche is a natural choice for the ’20s theme at Proenza Schouler and at Marc Jacobs where there were also aristocratic wide-brimmed hats that went with the ultra-slim silhouettes. Thirties Aviator influences came up in pilot headgear at Karen Walker and at YSL where it was ultra-tough and chic in croc. The Vermeer theme made the berets big, floppy and artsy at Louis Vuitton. Yohji Yamamoto opted for urbanized turbans twisted in complex knots.  Donna Karan’s hats were graphic with black squiggles and purple feathers curving heavenward, perfect for her minimalist dresses with origami highlights. Prada had huge headbands with industrial hardware and matching geometric ribbons that looked like they were ready for takeoff. Hussein Chalayan’s  headgear was definitely geared for outer space with Plexi fishbowl helmets that light up to enhance the mood of the wearer during those dark days of winter. Galliano, on the other hand, brought everything back to earth, to the Philippine countryside even, with his nipa hut hats.

Eyewear

With fashion focusing on smart, sexy women, glasses are unquestionably the accessory du jour. Yigal Azrouel opened the New York season with bespectacled women in luxe boy-for-girl basics.  The spectacles were black and oversized and definitely meant business, a covered-up way of saying something provocative. Chris Benz had style, more than sex as a subtext of his smart girl whom he describes as having a “nerdy/art school/’mess-thete” vibe.” She’s “that girl — the one who took her grandmother’s Kelly bag and snagged her grandfather’s old glasses, too!” Hermes had sophisticated schoolgirls wearing sleek, black-rimmed glasses with their newsboy hats. Dolce & Gabbana’s eyewear was dominatrix as usual, in the form of metallic Zorro masks that unequivocally declare who’s in charge.

Leggings

Cropped leggings are still around but the fashion-forward designers have more creative options. One thing for sure, bare legs are not in at the moment. Tights in black, white, gray and neon colors abound. Patterned stockings are another option. Gareth Pugh used horizontal stripes and Nina Ricci had thick ribbons crisscrossing ballerina style, while Karl Lagerfeld has peek-a-boo lace effects. Prada’s was knee-high in bright colors with a band at the top and footless, worn with open-toe heels for a sporty, graphic look. At Miu Miu they were more schoolgirl mid-calf, paired with the hit hourglass jacket and skirt ensembles. For ultimate protection, there is Hussein Chalayan’s skin-tight black Latex tights which can look sci-fi or S&M depending on how you want to work it.

Belts

With the hourglass shape in vogue, belts are still big in wide, corset versions and the new favored thin version, which goes well with the slim ‘20s silhouettes. Burberry’s was super-wide with three-belt straps in keeping with its theme of the knight taken from its logo. Christian Lacroix’s was studded with pearls in all its baroque glory while Dolce & Gabbana went futuristic metallic with a chastity belt lock and key. Fendi’s tough bullet-belt with faceted buckle came in thick and thin styles and in the happiest colors like yellow and aqua aside from the requisite fatigue. Thin versions came in unadorned calf leather at Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs and in sportier nylon with gold seatbelt buckles at Louis Vuitton.