Patrick’s own

Patrick Rosas is easily one of the most recognizable names in the local makeup industry. He is the savior of many a damsel a distress, usually one who needs that special glow reserved for brides on their wedding day. He is also a favorite among fashion directors and fashion designers who trust how he can conveniently shift from doing natural bridal makeup to inspired, avant-garde show color. Patrick Rosas creates makeup looks like a magician waves his wand to create illusions.

Now, he shares a bit of his magic with the creation of his own makeup collection, a first for the veteran artist. Made in collaboration with G-lish, a local makeup brand fast making a name for itself among young stylesetters, Patrick’s eponymous makeup line shows how he can still successfully go beyond society’s expectations.

The collaboration with G-lish came about by what Patrick describes as a "coincidence." He did makeup for the wedding of one of G-lish’s proprietors lip gloss. Nikki Ng’s sister. They exchanged ideas, along with Nikki’s partners Charlene Kang and Vanessa Chungunco, and decided on creating a collection that represented the high-end offering of the youth-marketed brand. "Patrick Rosas for G-lish is geared towards yuppies, and basically an older market," says Nikki.

The capsule collection is composed of three makeup color essentials: blush, eyeshadow, and lip gloss. Three options are available for each product, although the blusher and shadow come in sets of three different shades. For this first offering, the colors cater to both classic and trendy users, ranging from pastels to more classic blacks and browns for the shadow, and shimmery pinks or a more natural nude shade for the glosses. Patrick decided on the shades by consulting with his most favored clients, most of them local style icons. And though he intended for his new makeup collection to have a decidedly Asian appeal, he contends that the variety of colors will do well for all skin tones.

To add to the appeal, Nikki relates that Patrick’s makeup line is made in the same Taiwan factory that produces the makeup for popular international brands such as Tarte, Pupa, and Elizabeth Arden. These products are also all hypo-allergenic and sensitive-skin-friendly. Emphasizes Patrick, "I really made sure that it’s world-class and high-quality because we’re hoping to bring it outside of the country."

In a short interview, he excitedly reveals more about his new makeup venture and imparts some maquillage wisdom.

How long did it take you to develop this makeup collection?

PATRICK ROSAS: It took around six months. I did the makeup for the wedding of Nikki’s sister, they enjoyed my work and their mother told me that they have a cosmetic line. She told me that I should talk to Nikki about a collaboration, and we worked from there. Eto na siya ngayon. It was so fast. At first, they wanted a full collection at once, but I said, "No, not yet" because the market is too saturated. I just want to produce special colors for a special season, maybe around nine colors every three months.

Did you have a say in everything?

Yes, with color and packaging. I asked the help and advice of several friends. For the packaging, I asked Lesley Mobo to help me conceptualize. James Reyes was the one who came up with the embossed logo – I wanted it to have an Asian appeal, which is why it looks like a Chinese stamp. Inno Sotto produced the artwork: the face of the Asian girl on the promotional materials.

Tell us how you started out in the industry.

Everything happened to me at the right time and the right place. I was asked to audition for the first ASEAN Design Show many years ago. Inno Sotto called everyone to audition for makeup for the Philippine team. They wanted beauty with precision, so they gave us a timer and the look they were looking for, even the looks for Thailand and Indonesia. Inno’s was the last and the hardest. I did everything in 15 minutes, while the rest finished in about an hour. From then on… yun na!

Did you study makeup?

I’m a self-taught artist, but I keep on updating my skills by training elsewhere. Like my collaboration with Rustan’s has sent me to Paris several times to train. I’ve also trained with Diego della Palma in Milan. On my own, I go to Tokyo to learn color – the Japanese are more advanced when it comes to color.

How would you describe your makeup style?

I focus more on the eyes. I want them to stand out, which is why I only produced lip gloss for this collection. No lipsticks.

Who are the makeup artists you admire?

I like Kevyn Aucoin. I love the philosophy of Laura Mercier and Bobbi Brown. For my artistic side, I love Serge Lutens and Stephane Marais, the French guys.

Is it really harder to do the "natural" look than avant-garde makeup?

Yes, it is. It’s like making a dress. It’s harder to make the basic black dress compared to one that is ruffled or beaded because you instantly see the form and the details with the basic black dress, so you really have to make it good. It’s the same with natural makeup. If you do natural makeup on a simple-looking woman to make her look beautiful, you have to make sure the makeup is balanced and you have to be disciplined. Kahit gusto mo pang lagyan ng makeup pero dapat kung tama na, tama na! And for a photo shoot, your natural makeup should also work well before the camera and under the lights, especially with macro photography.

Do you think makeup can be learned in school?

This kind of work is more about experience. Education is not experience. You can learn it, but you really have to practice. Through the years, I had to experiment. When I first started, it was hit and miss: minsan nalulusaw yung makeup. I had to find the right cosmetics and the right products for different conditions. I discovered the right products for humidity. I even had one bride na nag-swimming sa Subic and hindi natanggal ang makeup.

You also have to really love what you’re doing. Para kumapit ng maganda yung fuchsia eyeshadow, kailangan gusto mo siya dahil kung hindi, bubuo-buo.

What’s the hardest color to work with?

Violet. It’s the hardest color to put on the eyes. If you don’t know how to use it properly, magiging parang binugbog or naglilibag.

Have you used G-lish makeup for work or on your clients?

Yeah. I first used it in the Jewelmer fashion show in Hong Kong and then for the Bench Underwear show. I would combine it with other brands.

What’s the most basic rule in makeup?

You should have a good canvas, which is a clean face. Color is just for enhancing. Beautiful skin is really important.

What’s your dream project?

To work with the Hollywood goddesses like Cate Blanchett and Nicole Kidman, and models like Alek Wek.

What’s the one beauty secret all women should be privy to?

I always tell my clients that there’s no amount of makeup that can make you look beautiful if you’re sad. You really have to be happy inside. It all shows in the eyes. If you’re not really happy, walang magagawa ang makeup.

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Patrick Rosas for G-Lish is available at Rustan’s Essenses, Makati. E-mail comments to ana_kalaw@pldtdsl.net.