Hair he comes
May 17, 2006 | 12:00am
The biggest challenge to a hairstylist, and the most elusive concept to a lot of frustrated customers, is "wash and wear" hair. A number of stylists fall short of this promise, probably intent on a cut’s possibilities rather than its basics. For Bench Fix’s new consultant and creative stylist, Philippe Tordjman, "wash and wear" is a philosophy, not merely a possibility. A native of France, Philippe believes that a good cut can be styled with a minimum amount of effort, whether you’re stepping out of the salon or your own home.
Philippe, who has been in the hair industry for almost 20 years (14 in San Francisco), nitpicks about the technical know-how of hairstyling as much the creative aspect. He cuts hair as if it had the precise edges and wispy buoyancy of chiffon. He knows hair as if it talks back to him and can accurately pinpoint your previous coloring job: how long ago it was, the original shade, and if it came from a bottle or not. He also dresses as if he could easily recollect World Cup highlights: a beer in one hand, talking with a French accent in a lingo reserved for American urbanites; joking with a deadpan humor, and moving with a confidence that conveys he has more than rubbed elbows with VIPs and celebrities. Which he has.
Throughout his 14-year career in the United States, Philippe has worked with Hollywood celebs such as Melanie Griffith, Sean Penn, Sharon Stone, and Matt Dillon – a feat for a man who came to America in circumstances that can best be described as spontaneous.
Philippe Tordjman came to the US from France in 1992 with $560 and nary a word of English. He initially wanted to go to Los Angeles and become a stylist to Hollywood celebrities, but was advised by the Air France agent that his meager budget would last longer in the more-compact San Francisco. Almost right off the plane, as he explains in a 2000 interview with the San Francisco Examiner, he spontaneously applied for a job with renowned makeup artist David Starr’s salon (a French waitress from a nearby café translated for him). Starr, who at one time was named San Francisco’s best makeup artist by Harper’s Bazaar, initially turned away Philippe but reconsidered after the Frenchman did an impressive impromptu haircut on some of his salon staff.
Philippe learned English and garnered expertise, experience and a loyal clientele while working with David Starr. In 1997, he put up his own salon, Au Top Coiffure, in a penthouse locale on the corner of Grant and Sutter streets (one of the best locations in central San Francisco). Over the next few years, Philippe opened three more salons and developed a best-selling haircare line called Philou (his childhood nickname).
So why, with the celebrity clientele, the successful salons, and the confidence of knowing he can charge $200 a pop, is he here? Because Philippe Tordjman believes (and always has) in life’s numerous possibilities. After 14 years in the Bay Area, Philippe sold his salons and cosmetic line, pocketed his snipping scissors, and embarked on a world tour, with the Philippines as one of the stops. (Of his interest in the country, he explains, "I like Filipinas. My ex-girlfriend was one.") And in the Philippines, serendipity’s sleight-of-hand tactics once again favored Philippe Tordjman. He met Brian Lim of Bench Fix and soon became the salon chain’s creative consultant. Though his established workstation is at Bench Fix in Greenbelt, Philippe is looking to extend his influence over the entire chain, advising on technical styling matters and customer service.
Why hairstyling?
I studied art but didn’t feel I was good at drawing portraits, although everybody would comment on how I would draw hair. I thought it couldn’t be too difficult to learn how to style hair. I never really had formal training for hairstyling. I learned on my own. I took up an art course called "Geometry in Space" and learned that by extending the lines of the face into space, I am able to figure out what shapes best complement this face.
Who was your first celebrity client?
Sharon Stone. This was when I was still working with David Starr and right after she did the first Basic Instinct.
Who are the other celebrities you’ve worked with?
I’ve worked with Melanie Griffith, Matt Dillon, Rachael Leigh Cook, Mandy Moore, among others. You start cutting one person’s hair, and your reputation spreads. Before you know it, you’re working with all these celebrities. You wake up one morning and you just ask yourself, "Oh, my God, is this real?"
Here in the Philippines, I’ve worked with Richard Gomez and Iya Villania.
What was the weirdest celebrity request you’ve ever received?
Melanie Griffith came to San Francisco one day. I get this phone call at the salon asking me to go to San Francisco Hotel and ask for a name, which I didn’t recognize – this was actually Melanie using a fake name, although I didn’t know it then. I rush to the hotel, ask to go up to the penthouse where I was told to go, and find out that my name isn’t on the list. I go back to the salon a little angry. After a while, I receive another phone call telling me to go back to the hotel but am told that I also have to give a fake name. After that, I knew better how to play that game.
In another incident, Melanie called me up at the salon and asked me to fly with her to Spain because she and Antonio Banderas were having dinner with the king and queen of Spain. I had to leave that very minute to fly to Spain with her. It was a great experience, though. I briefly met the king and queen of Spain. I also met their hairstylist, who was cute and friendly. I ended up spending time with her…
What was the best lesson you learned from David Starr?
Always reinvent yourself. Always create. Some stylists go to trend shows to learn; I try to be the creator of the trends.
Where and how do you derive your inspiration?
I am inspired by sculptors, painters, and artists. Their vision of hair is different from hairstylists. Sometimes I am even inspired by cartoon characters. It’s not reality but you can get so much from it. I look at how the hair is drawn and try to recreate it.
What hairstyles would you recommend for straight hair, which a lot of Filipinos have?
A lot of hairstyles look good on straight hair, but it’s important to layer hair properly. It’s not enough to just work with a razor or texturing shears, which I’ve noticed is used too much out here – overtexturing is only good if hair is blow-dried, but it doesn’t work as well if you want a cut that’s wash and wear. Proper technical layering can be achieved with scissors and even clippers.
What haircolor would you recommend for the Filipino complexion?
I would recommend cool chocolate shades such as ash brown, and highlights such as caramel, chestnut and mocha for Filipinos. The Filipino pigmentation is prone to brassiness so I would suggest that Filipinos avoid red.
Ever get dates from what you do?
No comment.
San Francisco Moda listed you as one of the most eligible bachelors in San Francisco in 2000. Did your female clientele increase after that?
Yes. Definitely…
What excites you most about this new business venture with Bench Fix?
I met with them and really liked their philosophy and their position in the country. They’re aggressive and fast-growing, with stores outside of the Philippines. I am really inspired by Bench Fix. Our goal is to improve techniques, customer service, raise the bar, and set a new standard in the industry.
What are some of the hairstyling trends for this year?
Color is big, lots of color. In terms of cuts, Asian hair is usually short or long – the mid-length cut is not so exciting. But what it’s really about is how the stylist uses cutting techniques so you can work with hair with the minimum amount of effort, and not have to always blow-dry. That, I feel, is the trend, not a particular style that can only be achieved in the salon.
What’s the best hairstyling tip you can share?
Finish off a blow-drying session by using the cold air button. Cold air is really a great styling tool. It locks in style and adds shine.
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