Paris – Taking its cue from the
pret-a-porter shows, the Eclat de Mode jewelry and accessories exhibition in Paris brought us on a voyage that started with lots of light, from clear crystals and dazzling diamonds to opalescent mother-of-pearl, iridescent satin, and sheer, delicate lace.
Elizabeth Leriche and Vasken Yeghiayen decoded the new trends in a special setting which was actually one of contrasts with just white as the starting point, combining extremes for an unforgettable journey from light to dark. This voyage through color embraces a profusion of contradictory and complementary styles, revealing a colorful, multicultural and intermixed world.
For the trendsetting duo, luminous whites epitomize the radiant, multifaceted woman. White can be mystic and virginal, surrounded by cotton net and tulle. It can be a historic, antique white, draped and embraced in fluid fabrics. Or exuberant, sensual and frivolous, finished in lace and muslin. The silhouettes are either pure and inspired by antiquity like a vestal in a pleated, high-waisted dress with Roman sandals in gilded leather; or scintillating and "tarty" in overlaid lace petticoats, bodice and blouse, worn with laced ankle boots. Aside from lace, key materials are porcelain (like Mercier’s pendants trimmed in gold and pearls), feathers, ribbons, crochet, cultured pearls, enameled and gilded metal, mother-of-pearl, opal and iridescent white satin.
Jewelry pieces are long, geometric strings like the multilayered tulle tubes of Seventh Sense or the lacquered chains and fabric necklaces with large pearls at Linda Lacroix. Lacroix also had lace necklines embroidered with antique-inspired jewels in patinated gold perfect for this look. Mystic jewelry like rosary strings and cross and talisman ornaments ala Jean-Daniel Brami also work well.
The predominant colors are optical white, chalk, ivory, cream, fresh butter and the all-important gold.
This woman is a traveler and a dreamer who loves the mixing of cultures and influences and is inspired by folklore. Her bucolic spirit mixes genres to create a hybrid look that is harmonious and elegant. Colors and materials are masterfully combined, as are stripes and floral prints on cottons and light and fluid silks. Typical silhouettes are printed and embroidered blouses with puffed sleeves, worn on top of a cotton-net petticoat braided with lace and worn with sandals; or a summer coat worn over a cool dress with brocade flowers and ballerinas. Materials are knit and crochet, ribbons, passementerie, worked metal, glass beads, sequins, enamel, shells, lozenges of colored tortoiseshell, cork, wood, string and raffia.Jewelry makes use of the combination and interplay of material: very long, multi-string necklaces of ribbons and crochet pearls like those created locally by Irene Pineda; or chains threaded with pearls and braided with fabric. Charm bracelets and jewelry charms; series of small bracelets of pearls and raffia; fabric flower brooches and shell pendants, as seen at Avatar and Jim Castler, also complete this look. The jeweled belt is another important piece for this voyage through color, with many variations and combinations of stones and textures to choose from.The key colors here are patinated, livened up by highlights of acid colors: sand, powder pink, cherry, celadon, turquoise, fuchsia and kiwi – favorite colors for Satellite and Mary Frances Accessories.
Sumptuous black for the mysterious, discreet femme who plays many games: Romantic and gothic black overlaid by lace and tattoo-effect net. Curvy chic and sexy black in brilliant satin and transparent muslin. Androgynous slender rock and rebel black in leather and coated denim. The silhouette can be "Baroque Couture" – black tafetta skirt and a jacket with oversized neck over a black lace blouse; or "Bad Boy" tapered trousers with message-bearing T-shirt, perfecto and sandals with very high heels. Materials to go for are black crystal, mirror, jet, metal, leather, feathers, passementerie, plastified lace, Swiss muslin, Plexi and vinyl. Rubber jewelry can also work, like the cutout leaf versions at Batucada which looked like second skin on lithe models. The mysterious woman’s jewels are just as intriguing: a necklace-belt, triple chain string, string of giant braid pearls, outsize ring (like Lolita Pompadour’s La Pirate), cuffs and mittens embroidered with gems, worked leather wristband, ear chain and a choice of brooches: a guitar brooch, black blown-glass brooch or a knot brooch. Francoise Montague’s fish brooch in dark crystals also fits perfectly.Happy David had a necklace design for Pan-Arts based in Cebu with black tulle-covered crystals and jet dangles that was right on the dot for this look, as did Avatar with its mystic black pieces. Jim Castler and the other Filipino exporters at the Eclat also had many stunning pieces that were right on track with all the other trends from light to dark, which is why they were a popular block for buyers at the show. Filipino design was actually officially recognized when Avatar was given an Etoile de Mode award for originality and creativity at the last show.The Philippines was definitely well-represented in this prestigious exhibition, showcasing Filipino creativity with designs that were current and coveted by the world market – a thought that made the long voyage for all of us a definite passage from dark to light.
