The grace and elegance of Giovanna Ferragamo

Beijing, China – As the fashion industry goes full throttle, luxury brands the world over seem to grow more and more impatient. As a result, we are witness to the proliferation of multi-billion dollar companies acquiring brand after brand; churning out an endless array of products defining what is supposed to be luxe. This exponential growth is, as power brokers say, the way to go. But for the family members and sole owners of the House of Ferragamo, succumbing to the temptation is an opportunity they gleefully turn down. At least for now.

At a recent gathering in Beijing for Salvatore Ferragamo’s 10th-anniversary in China, the company’s vice president, elegant Giovanna Gentile Ferragamo, admits, "With all the mergers and conglomerates in the industry, it is not easy to see us being in the corner when others are growing so big so fast. But it is a decision we’ve taken. It is tempting to go along that way. But through the years, there have been several incidents that we thank God we hadn’t jumped into. This does not mean we don’t want to move or that we want to stay still. But we will make our decisions based on what we think is the right thing."

The Ferragamo family decision is not a majority decision. It is one of complete and encompassing unity. She explains, "If there are matters to be discussed, we meet as a family. If we are not all in the same line, we postpone the discussion and pick up where we left off in the next meeting. We don’t decide on majority. Everyone on the table has to believe that a certain decision is the correct one. This process is slower, but it allows us more time to reflect more and think our judgment thoroughly. We can get excited, and that emotion may not allow us to decide properly. We all grew up wanting to join the company and help our parents. The company’s history and our father’s legacy are too precious to handle in haste."

The story of Salvatore Ferragamo is one of rich heritage. The patriarch and founder of one of the world’s most respected brands began his journey in the 1920s. A passionate artist, Ferragamo embraced the art and craft of shoemaking. Based in California and later specifically in Hollywood, Ferragamo’s talents were immediately noticed. Many famous personalities became devoted customers, such as John Barrymore Jr., Gloria Swanson, and Rudolf Valentino.

In the 1930s, he relocated to Florence and set up shop to revolutionize the shoemaking industry. It was then that he made major breakthroughs in shoe design, such as the metal reinforced stiletto heels made popular by Marilyn Monroe, and the invincible sandals that garnered Ferragamo a Neiman Marcus Award (the Oscars of fashion during that time). Several more popular celebrities sought Ferragamo’s artisanship: Ava Gardner, Sophia Loren, and Anna Magnani, to name a few. But his death in 1960 was a turning point in the empire he was establishing.

Ferragamo’s fervor and legacy were carried forward by wife Wanda and their children. Ferragamo had six children: three sons (Ferruccio, Leonardo, and Massimo) and three daughters (Fiamma, Giovanna, and Fulvia). Under Wanda’s chairmanship (she still holds the position to date) and Fiamma’s ingenuity (she was the only daughter to work directly under her father), the House of Salvatore Ferragamo went on to garner more recognition. Inspired by her father’s dedication and creativity, Fiamma went on to earn the same Neiman Marcus Award 20 years later. She was the creator of many signature pieces such as the Vara with Salvatore’s grosgrain bow, and the Gancino bag. Both are still in production.

Fiamma’s death in 1998 left the development of the family business to the other children. Today, Ferruccio leads as chief executive officer of Salvatore Ferragamo Italia S.p.A. and the group’s holding company Ferragamo Finanziaria S.p.A. Leonardo is the CEO of Palazzo Feroni Finanziaria S.p.A and chairman of Lungarno Alberghi S.p.A. Massimo is the chairman of Ferragamo USA; Giovanna is vice president of Salvatore Ferragamo Italia S.p.A. while Fulvia is the head of the accessories department. Third-generation Ferragamos involved in the business include James, who heads the women’s leather goods department; Diego, who is the personal assistant of the CEO; and Angelica, who is a marketing analyst at Ferragamo USA.

On the future of the House of Ferragamo, Giovanna smiles, "Predictions are terrible to make because we don’t know. We hope for the continuity of the company through the future generations. We hope they grow in moderately so it does not blow up to tire the people and market. James, Diego, and Angelica – they will be the future of Ferragamo."

Meanwhile Giovanna, her mother, and the rest of her siblings are tackling the market with panache and confidence. Recent years have witnessed a re-energized brand persona, and a more youthful spirit in the signature sophistication of the brand. "Everything is moving very fast in the past years, and we have to keep going," Giovanna says. "We continuously have to look at the brand objectively, study it, and respond accordingly.

"Generally, the world is getting younger. Even elderly people are looking younger. It is probably because people are living differently. They are more active. They are traveling a lot more. So we must adjust to the needs and lifestyles of today’s market. We’ve never been too trendy in our collections. We look at trends and interpret them our own way. We coordinate our products but don’t force the look. Everyone can pick up something and make it their own. We value flexibility and individuality. There is more freedom in fashion today. People have developed more intelligence in the way they view fashion. We have to adjust to these realities without losing our identity as a fashion house."

Giovanna knows very well that identity is the most important element in branding, and this has been the catalyst fueling Salvatore Ferragamo’s steady growth. She continues, "We’ve always catered to a person who understands the value of quality and trained in the definition of luxury. The Ferragamo client appreciates our products for personal satisfaction and use, rather than for showoff. Luxury is an art. It is to be happy. And this is a combination of a lot of things. It can be a nice holiday, a fantastic book, or quality time for one’s self. Luxury is to please one’s self, not to please others."

Now celebrating a decade of success in Beijing, she notes, "Asia is a very important market. We have learned a lot in Asia, and all these lessons add up to our experience. We don’t make collections solely for Asia because we employ a global distribution, but we gather information and put special considerations in designing our products.

"One of the greater learnings we had in Asia was the understanding of the difference in the nature of the Asian women. Asian women are very graceful, feminine, never loud. They are very well-mannered and ladylike. We respect that and see to it that these attributes are in mind in composing the collection."

As with several other companies and brands all over the globe, China is proving more and more critical to business growth. Giovanna relates, "We’re lucky to be one of the first brands to come to China. We hope to do more business in China and it looks like we are in a very good direction. Chinese customers are very loyal, and we simply have to do things better each time to ensure their satisfaction."

Satisfaction for Giovanna goes both ways – to the clientele and to the people who service them. Ownership of the brand is valued, and determination celebrated. She shows an admirable personal touch in dealing with her colleagues and calls them "family members."

"Every person who works with the House of Salvatore Ferragamo has enthusiasm and conviction. He works with heart. And that shows in the work. We appreciate colleagues who are professional and driven. We are very grateful when they share our passion. It makes all the difference."

Mutual respect and compassion will be Giovanna’s greatest contributions to the legacy of Salvatore Ferragamo. Her sense of coherence and pride motivate her to embrace challenges so as to effectively carry out their father’s work. She muses, "I have always tried to be his level. But our father has always given me the best advice. He always says be yourself. Be honest because this is the only thing that will make you happy."

Keeping the business strong and poised for the future is keeping Giovanna happy. As she continues to steer the direction of Salvatore Ferragamo’s fashion lines, she continues to breathe fire into the $600-million empire which has 450 shops in over 55 countries. And to keep the business within the family while enjoying continued success is further reason for the Ferragamos to celebrate.

In the Philippines, Salvatore Ferragamo is exclusively distributed by Stores Specialists Inc. –Ginggay Joven-dela Merced