Peeling me softly

If you’ve discovered the wonders of peeling and are justifiably addicted, here’s even more good news for you.

First of all, what is peeling? "A peel is a rejuvenation process for darkness, fine lines, pigmentation, freckles, age spots, mild scarring and acne," says Dr. Valerie Herbosa, a dermatologist and fellow of the American Academy of Dermatologists and Philippine Dermatological Society. "There are two types of peels: chemical, which uses glycolic or salicylic acid and is very mild; and mechanical, or dermabrasion, in which a rotary instrument is used to sand the face."

As the good doctor will tell you, dermabrasion is so five years ago. In today’s high-tech world, the ultimate quick fixes are the superficial chemical peel, done with beta hydroxy acids; and the diamond peel or power peel, a.k.a. microdermabrasion, in which a spray of fine diamond chips or aluminum-oxide crystals is passed over the face to reveal the luminous new skin underneath. Both peels are popularly known as "the lunchtime peel," because there are no discernible side effects and no recovery time needed. You can go back to work right afterwards, and people will wonder whether you got your glow from a little afternoon delight or a skillful application of NARS Orgasm.

At Herbosa’s clinics in Makati Medical Center and Asian Hospital, as well as other derm practices, peeling is one of the top cosmetic procedures performed today. It’s also the top procedure in Europe and second in the United States, right after Botox. Why? "It has an instant radiant effect," she says. "It gets rid of blotchiness and the effect lasts three months at most."

If you want the instantly gratifying effects of a peel but don’t have the time or the access to get to a dermatologist, Lancome has the answer for you. In October the company is launching Resurface Peel, the first dermatological peel you can do at home. Boxed in pure white, one kit contains everything you’ll need for a full course of skin renewal.

Resurface Peel falls under the category of a superficial chemical peel, and since it’s sold over the counter, by definition it has to be milder than what you’d get from your dermatologist. While derms use 20- to 70-percent glycolic acid for their peels, Resurface Peel uses four-percent glycolic acid, plus an additional 10 percent from their patented Physio-Peel Enhancer, a biological exfoliant the ingredients of which Lancome won’t reveal.

Who is eligible for peeling? Anyone who suffers from a dull complexion, uneven skin texture, enlarged pores, superficial acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles, and sun damage seen in the form of blotches, freckles and dark spots.

Lancome wanted to provide women what they wanted – smooth, even, radiant skin – via a quick and easy peel they could perform in the privacy of their own bathrooms. Best of all, it’s extremely safe, with little or no side effects. According to another dermatologist, people are most afraid of procedures that require downtime, and deeper peels require longer recovery times – up to 10 days, in the case of dermabrasion.

Before using Resurface Peel, Herbosa recommends doing a 24-hour patch test first with the peeling cream to make sure you’re not allergic, and using sunblock of at least SPF 15 in conjunction with the peel. "That’s our mantra before everything else: Use sunblock every day, even if you don’t peel," she stressed.

I tried Resurface Peel at home and, just as Lancome promised, it was a very convenient, pleasant experience with immediate results. The peel is done in four easy steps, with a numbered product for each step and very clear instructions on the box and insert to guide you every step of the way. (They should call it Peeling for Dummies – it’s that easy.)

First, you put on the enclosed terrycloth headband to clear your face of any stray hairs. After thoroughly cleansing your face and neck, a quick wipe with a towelette containing the Purifying Prep Lotion (15-percent hydroalcoholic solution and hammamelis virginiana) prepares your skin to receive the benefits of the peel.

Next comes the actual peel. Pump the Renewing Peel Cream three times into the enclosed plastic dish. A Resurface Peel kit is good for a whole month of peeling, and there’s enough cream in the bottle for eight applications. A fan brush is also included to spread the cream evenly all over your face and neck, avoiding the eye and nostril area. Once applied, you wait five minutes for the peel to take effect. I’ve had glycolic peels at my dermatologist’s using 20-percent acid, and I can say that Lancome’s is indeed gentle and comfortable in comparison – you feel a mild tingling instead of stinging, and you won’t need to perform the peel in front of a fan or air-conditioner blowing full-blast.

Third, you neutralize the acidity by wiping your face with one or two Neutralizing Wipes to remove the excess cream and restoring the pH balance of your skin. You’re then supposed to rinse all treated areas with warm water, and pat dry.

Lastly, Lancome provides a Comforting Cream with plant-derived galactolipids, rose extract, Pro Vitamin B5 and shea butter to soothe and protect skin.

The results were apparent: After each use I could see a significant improvement in the texture of my skin – pores looked smaller, my complexion was softer and smoother, and the skin was definitely more luminous and radiant. After only two of the recommended eight treatments, my skin looked visibly renewed.

For optimum results, Resurface Peel is meant to be done twice a week for a month. Consequently, the price of a kit isn’t cheap – P9,995 for eight treatments, or a month’s worth of peeling. After you use up one kit, Lancome recommends you let your skin rest for a month before starting a new kit and a new round of peeling.

After my brief test run, which I fully intend to complete, I’d say Resurface Peel is perfect for women on the go, metrosexuals and older men who don’t like to be seen waiting for their peels at the derm’s office. After all, with today’s high-tech anti-aging arsenal at our disposal, what better way is there to instantly "refresh" without having to hide out for a week than a little peel?

* * *

Lancome Resurface Peel will be available at all Lancome counters in October. Preorder now at Rustan’s Makati or call the Lancome Center at 813-3739 local 228.