If it’s mod, it’s Tod’s

When Jennifer Lopez attended the premiere of her new movie Monster-in-Law, she stepped onto the red carpet clutching one of the most covetable bags of the season: an evening pochette from the autumn-winter 2005 Tod’s collection.

So exclusive is this bag – handcrafted from colored crocodile leather, with origami-like folds at the corners – that it’s not even available in stores yet (look for it two months from now at our local Tod’s outlet).

In Hollywood and the rest of the world, Italian company Tod’s has rapidly gained cachet as the go-to brand for luxurious, desirable shoes, bags and accessories. In its mere 20 years of existence, as its collections have slowly but steadily grown trendier, its fans have also gotten younger (if not in chronological age then in spirit) – loyalists who appreciate a lot of comfort and durability with their chicness.

Lucy Liu owns Tod’s D-Bag, as does Desperate Housewife Teri Hatcher and model Molly Sims. And what does the "D" in D-Bag stand for? Why, its original owner and fan, the late Princess Diana, herself a style arbiter who raised the D-Bag to iconic status.

Tod’s recently presented its autumn-winter 2005 collection in Hong Kong, and it was a preview of hot trends waiting to happen. The company, which became famous for its pebble-soled driving moccasin, has taken this now-classic pebble design (owner Diego della Valle calls it "gommino") to the max, sprinkling it on bags, shoes, bangles, belts – even their first-ever cuff links.

"There are a lot more metal details this season," says Flora Lee, Tod’s Hong Kong’s PR and communications assistant, referring to the ubiquitous gommino as well as the assortment of hardware bedecking both the men’s and women’s collections – grommets, bag clasps, padlocks and tassels coolly cascading from metal cones attached to bags. "For spring-summer we used silver, but for winter we wanted warmer tones so we went with gold," says Lee.

Warm colors also dominated the collection. Think "fall in New England" tones like pumpkin, cognac, mahogany, burgundy, fern green and an unusual aubergine purple tinged with gray – a shade I’ve only seen on autumn leaves in woods outside of Boston. Very preppy, very New England – very Tod’s, in short.

Speaking of New England, is it true that head honcho Diego della Valle picked the name J.P. Tod at random from the Boston phone book? Not really, as it turns out. "Tod’s is a fantasy name Mr. Della Valle made up because it was easy for everybody to pronounce, whether you’re Chinese, American or Filipino," says Karen Chai, Tod’s PR and communications manager for Asia-Pacific.

In the women’s collection, the key item is the Kate bag, a roomy doctor-style bag with enough pockets and compartments to accommodate even the most rabid pack rat. Like all of Tod’s bags, it comes in a variety of precious leathers (both smooth and textured), colors and sizes, from the mini petite to grand valise.

This season’s D-Bag, says Lee, "is a big seller in Hong Kong because you can put everything in it but the shape is really chic." Versions of the moment feature metal grommets and winter materials like suede, shearling and fur, and an incredible short-haired Astrakhan pony skin, printed with zebra stripes and covered with luxe python snaking over not only the handles but the bag’s interior as well.

Two other standout styles are the Happy bag, "because it looks like it’s smiling," says Lee, and the Hampton bag, a trés-youthful style unique for its vertically attached handles that you have to grasp from the side. A detachable strap of handwoven leather slings over the shoulder to tote all your weekend necessities as well.

In women’s shoes, the loafer is the new must of the season, according to Tod’s. Most well-received by the press was the ultra-comfy Western-inspired "Indian" moccasin, with its pebble sole and high-contrast gaucho stitching on red and black leathers.

There’s also the beribboned Ballerina, in flats or heels, which constrasts materials like precious skins with canvas, and a range of boots, from ankle-length high-heel to knee-length flat riding boot, for navigating wintry urban landscapes in style.

Each year, the key accessory for Tod’s is its leather jacket. Last year it was white and looked soft but was "a bit stiff." This year it’s of the softest, butteriest leather with warm cashmere sleeves and a logo lining.

Also included in the accessory range are multi-colored bangles perfect for mixing and matching; narrow riveted leather bracelets and belts meant for looping around wrist or waist; gloves lined with cashmere; leather pencil cases that could double as makeup bags; jewelry cases; notebooks with rainbow straps; tasseled key rings; cell-phone cases and straps that celebs find pretty enough to attach to bags and belt loops; a traveling bag with slots for credit cards; and scarves of 100-percent cashmere that are reversible, sequined, or both. "The sequins are really pretty," noted Lee. "When the sunlight hits you, it catches that sparkle and makes you look more radiant." Very handy on those cold gray days and weak winter light.

Sporty sneaker-like looks, and raw-edged leather dominate the men’s collection. For day, the high-top Igloo shoe is the key item, available as a lace-up or ankle boot. "The concept behind the men’s collection is that you’re a city man but you’re out for an adventure," says Lee.

Of course the classic Tod’s loafer is back but with a twist, contrasting colors and materials like textured crocodile with high-tech fabrics.

Another style, the Owens, is a classic Tod’s trainer, with raw-finished leather, Velcro closures and a shiny band around the heel that draws the eye like a gleaming car fender or spoiler would.

Formula One enthusiasts, take note: Della Valle is part owner of the Ferrari team, and has been making Tod’s for Ferrari collections since 2001. "Mr. Della Valle and the head of Ferrari are really close friends, so this collection is more special," notes Lee. "Usually we have just black loafers with red stitching, but this season has the Ferrari colors of red and yellow, and the actual Ferrari logo inside the women’s and men’s loafers."

Men can also choose from more bag styles this year. The traditional messenger and duffel of years past now includes Tod’s first backpack, while the Travel range features a padded computer bag and surprisingly lightweight large weekend duffel.

Also appearing for the first time are billed leather caps and studded cuff links. Other male accessories include a leather folder for executives, logo organizer, toiletry bag, CD folder, pencil case, phone strap, key ring, and cashmere scarves, hats and gloves.

From this collection it’s evident that Tod’s is still strongly commited to its philosophy of merging style that doesn’t date with function and comfort. (As one local fashion editor noted, "Tod’s has the only shoes you don’t have to break in.")

"We don’t really follow trends," says Chai. "Mr. Della Valle doesn’t want you to buy a bag you can’t use after three months. He wants to create timeless classics."

Tod’s Group S.P.A., which also owns brands Hogan and Fay, has recently acquired Roger Vivier, the venerable Parisian shoe house named after the French designer who pioneered the stiletto and triangle heel, among other innovations. (Viviers can cost you 400 euros for a regular pair to 10,000 for couture shoes.)

For Della Valle, what links these four brands in their concept of luxury? "Craftsmanship," states Chai, who appreciates the personal touch that comes from Tod’s remaining a predominantly family-run company, despite the fact it went public in 2000.

Tod’s has come a long way from its beginnings at the turn of the century, when Della Valle’s grandfather Filippo founded a little shoemaking outfit that his grandson built into one of the world’s leading luxury brands in just two decades. "He’s a marketing genius," says Chai, and we and J. Lo have to agree.

Tod’s spring-summer 2005 collection is currently available at the Tod’s store in Greenbelt 4, Makati. The autumn-winter collection will be available by late August.