In the name of the rose

Since ancient times, the rose has been a powerful symbol in cultures all over the world. The black rose, in particular, is a mystical flower that can symbolize lightness – a milestone birthday, for instance; or darkness – a heartfelt loss of love, or revenge and retaliation.

Whatever the meaning, the spring European collections bloomed with black roses. Carrie Bradshaw may have sparked a craze for fabric flowers, but this hot trend is of a darker stripe. Black and burgundy petals were stamped all over bags, dangling from belts or adorning collars and lingerie – Carrie gone goth, if you will.

Rochas designer Olivier Theyskens formed roses organically from the fabrics of his dresses, instead of attaching them separately as a pretty afterthought.

At Dior, jackets were embellished with the dark bloom, in contrast to the pretty pink flowers decorating coats and accessories in Dior’s spring collection. One of Galliano’s coveted bags also bore the floral stamp.

The flower took on a harder edge at Bottega Veneta, where a leather-rose bouquet dangled from chain belts, and were abundant on the house’s trademark lattice bag.

Where did this flower get its power? According to Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune, designers have all dug up this somber flower at once. The black leather rose on flat pumps or sturdy high-heeled shoes in the new Roger Vivier collection was inspired, said designer Bruno Frisoni, by seeing an art work incorporating a rubber rose.

"I wanted a certain romanticism, but not too much," Frisoni said, expressing the general feeling for moody or edgy romance that was the driving force of the season.

At Dries Van Noten, not just the rose but different kinds of black flowers like lilies and "burned blooms" were attached to jacket lapels. Black and deep-burgundy roses were also pinned to the hair, a feminine spot favored by designers ranging from Rei Kawakubo and Sonia Rykiel. While Comme des Garçons showed blooming veiled headdresses in its "Broken Bride" collection, Rykiel also capped her hats with a black rose.

Ever the romantic accessory, wool-lace roses also appeared on lingerie.

Comme des Garçons introduced a new designer, Tao Kurihar, who produced her own label, inspired, for this season only, by lingerie. Witty knitted pieces like a curvy top and shorts incorporated a rose.

At the heart of the black rose is the yearning for romance, says Menkes, but not in the innocent prettiness seen in other eras.

According to myth, Cupid gave Harpocrates (the god of silence) a rose, to bribe him not to betray the amours of Venus. Hence the flower became the emblem of silence. (Roses were sculpted on the ceilings of banquet rooms, to remind guests that what was spoken under the rose – sub rosa – was never to be revealed.)

But, for this season anyway, the mysterious black rose is too beautiful to keep under wraps.