Two degrees of Marc Le Bihan

Designer Mich Dulce was browsing at Les Habitudes, a Los Angeles shop that carries Olivier Theyskens and Kaat Tilley, when some-one from the store approached her.

"Are you into fashion?" he started.

She was wearing her Vivienne Westwood shoes, Murakami bag, and a skirt she sewed."Did you make your skirt?" he asked.

"Uhm, yes," she replied.

He wanted to see her work. By chance, she had some photos in her bag from a design competition she had joined.

"I know this girl," the man said pointing to one of the models in the picture. "How do you know her?"

"She just modeled for me," said Mich.

The man began to tell her that Jeddaï (aka Jedd Tan), the Filipina model in the photo, was modeling for Marc Le Bihan.

I remember when Mich was fitting models for her collection, Jedd was assigned to her, and she was in doubt, having never seen or heard of her.

"Hoy, kunin mo yan," stylist Michael Salientes advised her. "Taga-Paris yan. Give her the strangest dress. Carry niya yan."

Marc who?

When you love fashion, it’s easy to name one’s favorite designers.

Topping my list are Comme des Garçons (both Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe), Martin Margiela, Vivienne Westwood, Jessica Ogden, and Christopher Nemeth.

I also love Marc Le Bihan.

I first came across his work while studying in New York more than 10 years ago.

I had a frienemy who was a salesperson at IF, formerly a SoHo boutique that specializes in progressive designers like Martin Margiela and Xuly Bët.

My frienemy, a tall Swede who studied at Fashion Institute of Technology, would constantly rave about this new designer Marc Le Bihan, that I had to go take a look.

Long before James Reyes discovered staple bullets as a means to finish seams, Marc Le Bihan was doing it. Like Jessica Ogden, Marc Le Bihan burns clothing, looks for vintage clothes and materials and transforms them into museum pieces.

At IF, he mostly had "one-offs," meaning one-of-a-kind pieces.

I tried on a small, dark woolen jacket that was deconstructed in front and hunched on the back. It is, to this day, the most amazing jacket I have ever seen and tried on.

It was a bargain at US$280. I know I should’ve got it, but it was so hot (IF’s aircon was out of order), I seriously didn’t think I could wear it here. Ever.

To this day, I have deep regret.

Schooled at Arts Décoratifs and Central Saint Martins, Le Bihan, now in his mid-‘30s, was trained in textiles, art history, and carpet-weaving.

He browses through flea markets in search of vintage pieces that he cuts from one article and sews on another.

He considers Rei Kawakubo the queen (and don’t we all?), studies the work of Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela, and Yves Saint Laurent for his evening jackets.

Stalking Jedd

Mich and I were out last week when we spotted Jedd Tan at a fashion event.

I got to meet her and am now two degrees separated from my idol.

I found out that Jedd was in town for a vacation. She has been living in France more than six years, and works part time as Marc Le Bihan’s fitting model.

"I’ve been modeling for 16 or 17 years," said Jedd, whose true age is off the record. "I call myself bagong-luma. I’ve been around for a while, but I’m very up-to-date."

She considers Joey Espino, Renee Salud, and Cora Doloroso as her mentors. Robby Carmona is her confidant.

"Joey Espino made me join Bodyshots. Ka-batch ko si Jerry Gonzalo and Apple Barretto. Renee Salud made me join Bb. Pilipinas, but I backed out. I was not into it. At that time I was more into my studies," she explained.

She ended up working in a law firm and an auditing firm. But every year she set herself a goal to visit a new country.

"Every time I travel, I present myself to a modeling agency, hoping mabigyan ako ng project. Rejection is part of the game. In Switzerland and Paris they are straightforward. They tell you they’re not looking for your type, but that’s part of the game."

In France, someone tipped her off to go see Marc Le Bihan who was looking for a model and she was hired.

"Ako yung signature niya," she said. "He has no boutiques in France because he has not many clients there."

Jedd said Marc is represented by Hortensia Hutten’s Showroom, where he shows his collection to buyers every March and October.

Most of his clients are from Japan, U.S. and Italy.

"He started from nothing. As in, inutang niya lahat. Ayaw niya magpa-finance because he wants to own his name."

He gave her some clothes: An asymmetric skirt with an unfinished seam, a gown made of old satin pants.

"Very hands-on siya. Siya pa rin ang nagtatabas. Very down-to-earth at napakabait. Sabi ko sa kanya. Kahit pa may mas malaking offer sa akin, sa kanya pa rin ako, because I have loyalty to people I work with."