Great skin now

It’s so hard to keep up these days. So many new beauty products and scientific breakthroughs happen everyday, how do we know which products work for us? There are also numerous things to consider in achieving a good complexion. Our family tree, for one, is a main consideration. Genetics plays a major role on the effectiveness of the products we use, and knowing your skin’s sensitivities will greatly help you choose the best products that work. Stress is also another factor. In the past, it was only associated with desperate situations like poverty, life threatening sickness or losing a loved one. Now it has become an everyday occurrence. Our pace has become so intense that we lack time to recover. Stress has been redefined in the modern culture. Daily schedules would be overflowing with multi-tasks from arranging your child’s birthday party to attending their PTAs, answering tons of e-mail that arrive simultaneously, arranging replacements on last minute cancellations for projects planned months in advance, making the grocery list and menu for the household…It’s endless. Another main player is our environment. Pollution, the thinning of the ozone layer, second-hand smoke and constant exposure to air-conditioning greatly affect our skin. Not only what we put on our skin but also how we conduct our life changes our skin entirely.

Despite all these, there is no excuse to have bad skin and to look your best at any age.

Cleanse

Always start and end the day with a clean slate. In my article on the latest makeup, I mentioned Shu Uemura’s Cleansing Oil as the best. I swear, I only need one application and all makeup and dirt are gone – including my layers of waterproof mascara! It’s also very gentle on the face, which is extremely important. All you need to do is to take the oil on dry hands and spread thoroughly on your face. Then emulsify with lukewarm water and rinse off completely. Say goodbye to endless wiping of cotton to clean your face! There are three different cleansing oils to choose from depending on your skin personality. The High Performance Balancing Cleansing Oil responds to all skin conditions. High Performance Balancing Cleansing Oil Light works best for oily conditions while High Performance Balancing Cleansing Oil Enriched is recommended for dry skin. This orange-colored oil contains botanical ingredients, which help stimulate blood circulation. I believe in Shu Uemura’s conviction, "Cleansing beautifies the skin."

Exfoliate

For smooth skin, you need to be a bit rough. The skin’s rate of renewal varies depending on your age and general health. In the late teens and early twenties, the skin completely regenerates itself about every 20 days. As we get older, the process slows down. A balanced skin care regimen, including exfoliation, can help return this skin renewal process to its prior levels.

Moderation is key to keeping the skin looking and feeling its best. Over-exfoliating can diminish the skin’s natural barrier function. It contributes to a potentially sensitized skin that is prone to breakouts and accelerates the aging process. So, remember that anything in excess is bad.

How do you know which is best suited for you? Here are some ingredients to look out for:

• Corncob meal and oatmeal — This gentle ingredient physically exfoliates. This helps to clear skin by removing dead cells. This is ideal for men prior to shaving and for women with normal skin conditions.

• Retinol-enhanced exfoliants — Vitamin therapies are the wave of the future. These formulas are ideal for prematurely aging or thickened skin.

• Salicylic and lactic acid — Salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy, has been shown to help clear problems of the skin. While lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy, hydrates skin and balances pigmentation. These are effective at dissolving dead skin cells without harsh effects.

• Papain and bromelian enzymes — Derived from papaya and pineapple, these plant enzymes literally digest dead skin cells. These ingredients dissolve the "cement" that holds dull skin debris and impurities to the skin’s surface. These gently soften the skin and reveal the more supple clear skin beneath. These are ideal for most people. These are also recommended for acne prone and delicate skin conditions. I put a thin layer of papain every night and it seems to be working. I have sensitive skin and this doesn’t seem to irritate me like Alpha Hydroxy acids.

• Rice bran — This is an example of ancient ingredients finding its way to modern science. Rice bran is the outer layer of unrefined brown rice. This has been used for centuries in skin care by the "Nuka-Bijin" (translated as "bran beauties") of Japan. It is rich in Phytic and Ferulic acids, which promote microfoliant (a gentle form of exfoliation). It helps balance melanin production thus controls age spots. It also contains enzyme inhibitors, Proanthocyanidins, which help protect the skin’s collagen and elastin to ensure suppleness and resilience. Then, there are tocopherols and tocotrienols, both vitamin E derivatives. These help protect the skin from environmental assault and reduce the progress of premature aging. Rice actives are key ingredients in Dermatologica Daily Microfoliant.

Remember that body scrubs are totally different. Our face needs finer and less abrasive ingredients so don’t you dare use these on your face!

Protect

The best beauty advice I can give you is to protect yourself against the sun. Given all that we know on the dangers of the sun, there is no other option but to put protection. We are exposed to UV light more than you think – from walking to your car to driving to work, or crossing the street. Even if it’s overcast, UV rays are present. So, make sun protection a morning ritual.

What do you need to know to get the best protection for you? SPF, or sun protection factor, is a standardized measure that indicates how much additional time you can spend in the sun without getting burned. Here’s an example. If you can spend 20 minutes outside before burning, an SPF 15 sunscreen will increase that time by 15 times (20 minutes X 15 = 300 minutes). Also remember that if you decide to sunbathe, you will have to reapply your sunblock frequently. If you are going swimming, look for waterproof ones. It is best to apply protection 30 minutes before sun exposure.

The best sun products are non-chemical. They are effective and tend not to irritate sensitive skin. Look for micronized titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, whose micro particles actually block the sun from harming the skin.

Try Shu Uemura’s TTL Defender with SPF 25. It is a mybrid type sunscreen powder that offers complete skin protection. Since it diffuses well in the formula, just a small amount is necessary for protection. It is light on the skin and gives a pearly light purple transparent finish. It also protects your skin from free radicals. Antioxidant thermo sensor reacts to the sun and intercepts active oxygen radicals. This is produced when skin comes in contact with UV rays. These accelerate the aging of skin. Exposure to environmental stress also denatures the proteins on our skin and results in skin cell death. This ages and dries the skin. HSP Protector (a yeast extract) inhibits this process and helps maintain healthy skin. Total Defender is enhanced with tuberose extract to lock in moisture. It also smoothens skin allowing easy application of foundation. Lastly, it contains Sebum Sensor Powder, which prevents dullness. This helps maintain the finish of your base makeup. If you prefer a refreshing watery mousse texture to a creamy one, try UV Under Base DF with SPF 15. It’s very gentle on the face and gives a natural glow and skin tone finish.

Formulated with botanical extracts and antioxidants vitamins to help protect against premature aging, Dermatologica Ultra Sensitive Face Block SPF25 is good for sensitive skin. It also contains anti-inflammatory herbal extracts and antioxidant vitamins to calm and soothe the skin. A light tint ensures natural coverage.

If you want to get a tan without the sun, try Dermatologica Protective Self Tan with SPF 15. It has worked well for me. It achieves a natural golden color and at the same time protects from sun exposure with SPF 15 and antioxidant vitamins.

Prevent

Don’t wait until it’s too late! Start with a beauty regimen that works well for you. The newest product of Shu Uemura boasts of a key ingredient, ß-Glucan a yeast extract. Skin has a natural self-sustaining ability to stay healthy. It is a result of a beneficial function of langerhans cells that defend the skin from external stimulus and order generation collagen. Because of environmental stress, this function weakens and the elasticity of our skin therefore affected. ß-Glucan revitalises langerhans cells and promotes elasticity and resistance to our skin.

Shu Uemura has introduced a ß-G Resistance Program that enhances elasticity.

Step 1: Cleansing Oil — Choose one of the three depending on your skin personality.

Step 2: Active Water — ß-G Reinforcing Cosmetic Water induces absorption of ß-Glucan. It also protects the skin from environmental damages and hydrates it.

Step 3: ß-G Reinforcing Booster is a new essence for intensive care that concentrates on maximizing the effect of ß-Glucan.

Step 4: Use an emulsion that releases ß-Glucan quickly or a cream that supplies it consistently.

I have just started this regimen. I will let you know if it works well for me.

Special Care

Eye care — Total Eye Care of Dermatologica has a blend of gentle hydroxy acids and an SPF 15 chemical-free sunscreen. It also contains botanicals to reduce puffiness and optical light diffusers to conceal dark circles.

Balanced skin tone — Dermatologica Pigment Relief rescues the skin with a blend of active botanicals, vitamin C and lactic acid. It helps regulate pigment production while its sun protection safeguards the results. Age spots, blemishes, scars, sun damage or pigmentation caused by oral contraception or pregnancy cause imbalance to our skin tone. Reduce discoloration and make your skin luminous with Shu Uemura’s White Recovery Program.

Clear up — Classic acne blemishes include blackheads, milia, pimples and cysts. Excellent skincare and hygiene are highly important to remove excess oils and bacteria that stimulate acne. Always follow a strict regimen of thorough cleansing of tepid water and use an oil-free moisturizer. Consult a professional dermatologist. Also, stay away from products that are non-acnegenic or non-comedogenic. Many skin-sensitizing products contain ingredients such as lanolin, artificial fragrance and colors, S.D. alcohols or mineral oil, which can clog and irritate the skin. I tried Dermatologica’s Medicated Clearing Gel, which contains salicylic acid treatment. It helps clear existing acne blemishes, destroys bacteria and regulates oil production to prevent future breakouts.

Treatments — Address your skin’s needs with hydrating, refining, relaxing, multivitamin power recovery, acne control or intensive moisture masques. Pamper yourself. I tried Dermatologica’s oatmeal masque and I came out of the spa feeling really good. My face felt like baby’s skin. Go and visit them at the fifth floor of Rustan’s Makati. They will provide free face mapping, which enables them to properly prescribe the best treatment and care. It’s definitely worth a try.

Take charge of your skin regimen. Look at yourself everyday, and learn to be your own skincare expert. Learn to listen to your needs. Learn the best ingredients that work for you. Remember that you are not only one skin type – many factors greatly affect our skin, which cause changes frequently. It’s all about skin personalities, as Shu Uemura would say. It is best to have options within reach whatever you may see in the mirror. I also cannot stress enough that consistency is key. Make a lifestyle check as well. Drink plenty of water, get enough sleep, stop smoking, eat healthy and exercise! There is definitely no excuse now not to have great skin at any age.

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Send queries and suggestions to jo@joyceorena.com.