A sneak peek at next season
July 23, 2003 | 12:00am
ITALY – It’s so unfair! It’s all happening so fast. I’ve mentioned this before in one of my past articles – fashion is being pushed more and more forward. Last season, Yohji Yamamoto showed his line way before the Paris fashion week. He said he wanted something more relaxed and peaceful, away from the chaotic fashion week. More and more designers are doing this to be different or to say that they were the first to think of the trend. New York moved its fashion week earlier than the rest to be able to show first. Just when you were starting to enjoy your new summer finds, in come the next collections. Here in Europe, summer has just started. The heat is exhausting here in Florence. The temperature goes up as high as the 30s! And the summer holidays don’t come until August. How can you think of buying a fur-trimmed coat in the middle of the heat? I’ve come here for the Pitti Imagine, a yearly event to showcase the tendencies of the season. The exhibits are the fashion insider’s guide to the season’s trends in colors, fabrics, leather treatments and inspirations.
The next season is all about the polished, refined and sophisticated lady. Just as we were getting used to mix-matching items from our wardrobe to make the look personal and individual, the next season dictates matching accessories from head to toe. If you ask me, very few pieces tickle my fancy now. There’s nothing new.
Again, the Sixties and the Eighties live in the next season. The Sixties show up in the form of minis, A-line dresses, shifts and peacoats. Think Courrèges and Cardin. Then there are references to Mugler, Montana and Alaïa for the Eighties. Updates like leggings, punk and face-trimming collars rule the runways. The same goes for menswear. Miuccia Prada has revived tweeds, herringbone and houndstooth weaves for Prada and Miu Miu. It seems she’s running out of ideas – she has used many of these in her past collections. I was also disappointed to see a creased top in the window display of her boutique in Florence. For such an expensive brand, these small details should not be overlooked. After all, image plays a major role in fashion brands. The same goes for Armani and Trussardi – their collections are nothing new. Maybe they want to be safe and cater to their usual clientele – the conservative and the traditional.
Femininity is in focus again. Dresses are about innocence and glamour. Black and white prevail in simple, slim cuts and skirts are a major trend. Knee-length pencil skirts, paired with a fitted jacket, or minis worn with fishnets or tights are all over the runways. The look is finished with ladylike heels and head-to-toe polished accessories. The "done" look is achieved with structured bags perfectly complementing shoes and other accessories. Crocodile bags are turning up in many collections, from Louis Vuitton to Gucci, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana. It’s all about glam again.
Menswear is also given an ultra feminine feel. The traditional men’s wardrobe – from white shirts to suits, pants and tuxedos – are reworked for women. Viktor and Rolf, Prada, Burberry, Junya Watanabe, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Sonia Rykiel, Emanuel Ungaro, Jean Paul Gaultier and Ralph Lauren are using fabrics in pinstripes, tweed, herringbone and houndstooth, that ordinarily belonged to men’s tailoring. Slim pants are the mod for the season. Stovepipe pants, paired with a long coat, streamline the look. Jackets and coats reign in the runways for both men and women. Traditional trench coats and motorcycle jackets with embroidery are accented with corsets or belts. The luxe coats are trimmed with fur and they appear in techno fabrics or in animal prints and crocodile skin.
On a positive note, you need not spend to look in style. Rev up your old pieces. Look into your grandma’s and mother’s things, you’ll definitely find many things you can use next season. Always remember that these are only guidelines – no one can tell you what to wear. Be your own stylist. It’s always a must to be true to yourself and wear only the things you are most comfortable with. It spells confidence, which is the only way you can get away with your look with ease. If you want to be as fast forward as these fashion houses, start invading your grandmother’s and mother’s closets. It’s more fun for me to do this as well as search for great finds in the vintage markets. Then you can personalize them by adding beads, trimmings or whatever suits your fancy. Remember, always have fun!
This is just a sneak peek of what’s to come. Watch out for an insider’s look at next season’s collections in my future articles.
Send queries and suggestions to jo@joyceorena.com
The next season is all about the polished, refined and sophisticated lady. Just as we were getting used to mix-matching items from our wardrobe to make the look personal and individual, the next season dictates matching accessories from head to toe. If you ask me, very few pieces tickle my fancy now. There’s nothing new.
Again, the Sixties and the Eighties live in the next season. The Sixties show up in the form of minis, A-line dresses, shifts and peacoats. Think Courrèges and Cardin. Then there are references to Mugler, Montana and Alaïa for the Eighties. Updates like leggings, punk and face-trimming collars rule the runways. The same goes for menswear. Miuccia Prada has revived tweeds, herringbone and houndstooth weaves for Prada and Miu Miu. It seems she’s running out of ideas – she has used many of these in her past collections. I was also disappointed to see a creased top in the window display of her boutique in Florence. For such an expensive brand, these small details should not be overlooked. After all, image plays a major role in fashion brands. The same goes for Armani and Trussardi – their collections are nothing new. Maybe they want to be safe and cater to their usual clientele – the conservative and the traditional.
Femininity is in focus again. Dresses are about innocence and glamour. Black and white prevail in simple, slim cuts and skirts are a major trend. Knee-length pencil skirts, paired with a fitted jacket, or minis worn with fishnets or tights are all over the runways. The look is finished with ladylike heels and head-to-toe polished accessories. The "done" look is achieved with structured bags perfectly complementing shoes and other accessories. Crocodile bags are turning up in many collections, from Louis Vuitton to Gucci, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana. It’s all about glam again.
Menswear is also given an ultra feminine feel. The traditional men’s wardrobe – from white shirts to suits, pants and tuxedos – are reworked for women. Viktor and Rolf, Prada, Burberry, Junya Watanabe, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Sonia Rykiel, Emanuel Ungaro, Jean Paul Gaultier and Ralph Lauren are using fabrics in pinstripes, tweed, herringbone and houndstooth, that ordinarily belonged to men’s tailoring. Slim pants are the mod for the season. Stovepipe pants, paired with a long coat, streamline the look. Jackets and coats reign in the runways for both men and women. Traditional trench coats and motorcycle jackets with embroidery are accented with corsets or belts. The luxe coats are trimmed with fur and they appear in techno fabrics or in animal prints and crocodile skin.
On a positive note, you need not spend to look in style. Rev up your old pieces. Look into your grandma’s and mother’s things, you’ll definitely find many things you can use next season. Always remember that these are only guidelines – no one can tell you what to wear. Be your own stylist. It’s always a must to be true to yourself and wear only the things you are most comfortable with. It spells confidence, which is the only way you can get away with your look with ease. If you want to be as fast forward as these fashion houses, start invading your grandmother’s and mother’s closets. It’s more fun for me to do this as well as search for great finds in the vintage markets. Then you can personalize them by adding beads, trimmings or whatever suits your fancy. Remember, always have fun!
This is just a sneak peek of what’s to come. Watch out for an insider’s look at next season’s collections in my future articles.
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