CRISELDA LONTOK: From fashion model to RTW queen

Pitoy Moreno and Ben Farrales consider her one of the top models of the ’50s and ’60s. Art patron Danny Dolor – her beauty-connoisseur provincemate – says she is one of the most beautiful women Batangas has ever produced. Yes, she was a ramp diva and a Miss Batangas, but to many shoppers at Rustan’s, Criselda Lontok is simply a fashion label they trust.

Many women have, in fact, stayed loyal to Criselda since the time her RTW line was launched at Rustan’s in 1983.

The beautiful thing about her label is that it continues to evolve with the changing fashions. No wonder Criselda is consistently the topselling local RTW designer label at Rustan’s.

"I have always loved fashion but never dreamed of becoming a designer. After finishing high school in Maryknoll College, I entered St. Theresa’s College, Manila where I was forced to enroll in AB-Home Economics which was not really my cup of tea. I had fun though during our cooking and sewing classes with my group mates, one of whom was Passy Cojuangco now Teopaco. After a year, STC offered Foreign Service so I shifted right away due to my love for languages."

Would you believe Criselda once dreamed of becoming a diplomat?

"I guess I wanted to be an ambassador but I don’t know why I did not take the exams for that position. My professor, the late Ambassador Luis Moreno Salcedo, even told me that I could have made it if I did. Do you know that Max Soliven was one of my professors then? Well, I guess, it was not really meant for me."

Let’s listen to the fashion model-turned- RTW queen:

PHILIPPINE STAR: Tell us about your modeling days with Pitoy Moreno and Ben Farrales.

CRISELDA LONTOK: Aside from Ben and Pitoy, there were the late Salvacion Lim-Higgins of Slim’s, Pilar Ver Romack of New Yorker, Aureo Alonzo, Casimiro Abad, Arturo Cruz, Bert Hernandez, Karlos Burgos, Ernie Arandia, Tony Abeto and Mrs. Galang of Madonna’s. We even had hairstyle shows that time. I remember having done so for Nomer Pabilona, the top hairdresser then, and doing some shoots for Meldy Reyes who had Millie’s Beauty Parlor then.

How were you discovered?

After I won the title of Miss Batangas. I was featured in the Sunday Times Magazine, the weekly mag of the Manila Times, the leading daily then owned by the Roces family. I don’t remember exactly who invited me to participate in fashion shows. Maybe Slims had something to do with it ’coz I had my terno done by her for my coronation night or it could be Ben Farrales who has that talent for spotting potentials.

How do you compare modeling then and now?

It was so different then. There were no professional models. They were mainly composed of society girls with a few exceptions like Gloria Romero who was then one of the top stars of Sampaguita Pictures and who did everything for charity. No formal training was given except for some coaching from the designers themselves. Each one had her own style based on her personality. The manner of gliding varied but basically, the hand movements were the same – one or both palms are placed on the waist or brought outward in a sort of pointing position while the feet are brought together with the right foot pointing forward. All these are done during a pause. I remember the top models then were Chona Kasten who walked so divinely, Mary Prieto who walked briskly but always with a lovely smile and Chito Madrigal who had her own style, too. Tita Conching Sunico was one of the most powerful organizers so that no one would normally refuse her knowing the magnificent shows she produced.

What were your fashion modeling highs?

It is so inspiring when you hear the roar of applause, whether it is for you or for the dress. I remember during Rustan’s 50th year celebration at the Tent. Larrie Silva, Rhett Eala and myself had to present some collections for a fashion show and Nedy Tantoco asked me to come out at the beginning of my portion. I felt so elated when there was a big round of applause led by Johnny Litton who was near the stage.

How about during the ’60s?

In the ’60s during the Fashion on Wings show, seven of us including Conchitina Sevilla now Bernardo, the baby of the group, Encarnita Abiera, Jojo Kierulf now Zabarte, Norma Serafica, Baby Jereza who had such great legs, Nina Garrido and myself were flown by Philippine Airlines to 10 different cities of the Philippines together with the leading designers like Pitoy, Ben, Aureo, Bert Hernandez, Casimiro Abad, Karlos Burgos and Arturo Cruz. Since this was sponsored by Manila Times, our photos landed on the front pages for 10 days plus other pictures on the inside pages. Tita Bebeng Roces and Women’s Magazine editor Luisa Linsangan would even join us in some cities like Cebu, Davao and Zamboanga. You see, that time, shows abroad were not conceptualized yet.

How did people regard fashion models then?

After the shows, people would come to the backstage and ask for our autographs! We felt like movie stars! A German magazine even featured Jojo and myself in our ternos.

Are there modeling experiences you’d rather forget?

Modeling lows? Well, it’s when you don’t really like the dress but you simply have to wear it! Luckily, I did not experience any embarrassing moments. Can you imagine if my stockings rolled down to my feet due to loose garters? Maybe I would have died of shame!

How about funny and unforgettable moments?

Funny moments we had every time we would all gather for makeup. Arturo Cruz who stood so tall and handsome would get a bedsheet pretending it was a cape or shawl and then imitate how we would play around with it. He would pretend to be Chona or Mary or any one of us and copy the way we walk. He would be joined by the other designers and we would all die of laughter. In one of the cities, I came out wearing a wedding gown and, would you believe, Nomer was my groom! Fashion on Wings culminated at the Araneta Coliseum with Neil Sedaka, a famous singer in the ’60s. Before the end of his show, Tito Amading Araneta asked me at the backstage to give him a bouquet of flowers and so I did. But plastic ones! After having given it to him, he was pulling my hand to kiss him but I smilingly shook his hand until the audience started cajoling. I continued to shake his hand until he gave up! That same night at the party hosted by the Aranetas, I was a bit edgy because Jorge Araneta jokingly told me that the father of Neil was looking for the lady who embarrassed his son. Luckily, he did not remember who the culprit was. I immediately apologized to Neil saying that kissing is not a practice in our country and he understood it. Of course, it is different now.

How would you compare fashion designers then and now?

Designers now do get a lot of assistance from magazines, fashion shows on TV or firsthand info through the luxury of travel. Before, there were no schools for designers where they could formally take the course. They simply relied on their skills and ingenuity.

How did you start out as a fashion designer at Rustan’s?

I can say by chance. My line was actually started by the late Glecy Tantoco or GRT as we fondly called her. I joined Rustan’s in 1974 as merchandising manager. She had some blouses sampled and said these were items women could buy on impulse. Then she passed them on to me. I added more categories like bottoms to match until it grew in size. We called it Mode Internationale and the two of us chose the different labels under it. Sales grew tremendously. I was behind the scene the whole time until people started asking which was my line. During that time, Larrie Silva and Vicky Lopez had their own labels. After proving myself, GRT decided to launch me as a full-fledged designer and named my line Criselda for Rustan’s. Blouses were my first pieces until I added pants and skirt sets that catered not only to the regular sizes but to the plus sizes as well.

Who were your fashion mentors?

It must have been my experience as a former model, constant exposure to the designs of fashion greats both internationally and locally, and my association with the ladies of fine taste that contributed to the development of my fashion sense. GRT greatly supported me by showing her latest purchases from the different known brands from Paris and Italy. I am quite lucky that I am commissioned by Rustan’s to attend the different fairs of RTW, shoes and bags and do some buying from the different houses of renowned brands. In the past, I would regularly visit the showrooms of Dior, Gucci, Louis Feraud, YSL, Nina Ricci and Christian Lacroix.

What important lessons did Glecy Tantoco of Rustan’s teach you? Her merchandising genius was so well-known.

I have always admired GRT for her keen sense of foresight. Her anticipation of things to come was simply fantastic. I was lucky to have learned a lot of merchandising strategies straight from one of the founders of this establishment. She may have shown a strong facade but deep inside, she had a soft heart. I remember when I was in New York in 1982, she asked her daughter Marilen to call Lia Zalamea and myself to visit her at the Waldorf Towers. When we arrived, she called me in the room and gave me $300 so I could buy whatever I wanted and emphasized that it came from her and not from the company. That was really manna from heaven. I really appreciated her motherly gesture, once more proving her anticipation that I was already running low on cash. One thing that she would always tell the store staff was to treat all customers with utmost respect. Whether they are elegantly dressed or just in slippers as she always said the book cannot be judged by its cover.

What is the target market of your Criselda RTW line?

I cater to women of high-ranking positions in government or corporations, wives of politicians, women of leisure, and balikbayans from ages 35 to 65. Criselda has become a byword among the balikbayans, especially my line of knitted wear called Criselda Sport.

Who are the best-dressed women among your customers?

Remy Arguelles and Menchu Concepcion are among those who regularly purchase from the boutique. Of course, there are a lot of other women who are well-dressed but prefer to just stay in the sidelines. I have other clientele like Senator Loi Ejercito, Congresswoman Imee Marcos, Conchitina Bernardo, Gina de Venecia, Korina Sanchez, Charo Santos and some others who just pop up in the boutique during their free time.

They say a woman never gets out of that decade during which she was at the peak of her beauty. Thus, many matrons today still sport big teased hair and the makeup of the ’60s. What do you think?

A woman has the privilege of choosing the styles that give her more confidence. But by not adjusting to the times, she becomes outdated. Maybe what she can do is to go to the beauty parlor and try out what new styles best suit her considering the shape of her face and other facial features.

How does a woman avoid getting stuck in a certain decade?

It is vital that one gets updated on the latest hairstyles and makeup techniques. I watch the demos being given by our beauty consultants from leading cosmetic brands like Chanel, Dior, Estee Lauder, Clarins, Prescriptive and others from time to time plus get some tips from mags and TV. Can you imagine me going around with pointed thick eyebrows, doe eyes and false eyelashes? Oh God!

What particular era look do you personally like?

I have always loved the movie The Great Gatsby. The look of the ’20s simply thrills me. The movements of the fringes on their dresses, the blousons, fedora hats, headbands with coordinating feathers, geometric hemlines, pointed and ballerina shoes are simply divine. The ’50s likewise spell glamour and playfulness. I can imagine the strapless gowns of Lana Turner, the long chiffon skirts of Cyd Charisse swirling away with her graceful movements, Debbie Reynolds in a shirred cotton skirt with ricrac and petticoat and Elizabeth Taylor in pedal pushers.

Who are the beauties or icons you admire?

Audrey Hepburn tops the list. She epitomizes glamour and innocence. She wore Givenchy’s creations with style and pizazz. Even while she was already cancer-stricken, she continued to do mission work with UNICEF. Jackie O exudes subtlety and projected her own style that was quickly adopted by women all over the world. I also like Princess Grace Kelly for her refinement and Coco Chanel for having revolutionized a look of her own with complementing pearl accessories.

Who are the local and foreign designers you look up to?

The late Ramoning Valera had exquisite taste and innovations that ran ahead of his time. I must cite Ben Farrales’ supremacy in the Muslim designs, Pitoy Moreno for the intricacies of his designs through adornment, Inno Sotto for his subtle elegance and Joe Salazar for his beautiful feminine masterpieces. Among foreign designers, I love Valentino. His name is synonymous to elegance, Lacroix and Ungaro for their mixture of prints and patterns, Tom Ford for his ingenious designs for Gucci pret-a-porter, shoes and bags, Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta for their very feminine designs, and Narciso Rodriguez for his minimalism.

What are your tips for women above 50 who want to stay young and beautiful?

First of all, update yourself on the latest trends in makeup, hair styles and clothing bearing in mind your limitations to avoid being a fashion victim. Care of the skin is so vital as all your efforts will be useless if this is disregarded.

What is your fashion advice for women above 50?

The basic principle should be: Act and dress your age. By this time, some flabs are already evident. Try to camouflage them by putting emphasis on the other parts of the body. As they say, accentuate the positive and downplay the negative. Look at the mirror, study yourself well. Never try to copy what the youth are using, for example, the low-slung denims that would expose part of the hips, too low necklines that would show the wrinkles on the cleavage, super tight tops or clinging dresses or very see-through tops or bottoms, puff sleeves. Be true to yourself ’coz at this stage you have already reconciled with yourself. Your hangups should have been dealt with.

Should a woman above 50 wear a miniskirt?

Yes, provided she has good legs and smooth knees but above that, I think it is a no-no. She may be competing with her grandchildren.

What is your all-time favorite fashion cut or design?

A simply cut top in sports collar with sleeves, maybe short, three-quarters or long, depending on the season, in polysilk or linen, either plain or printed, with pants or skirt to match.

Is there a fashion trend you hate the most?

I always go for the clean image. I never liked the punk look with wide belts, Mohawk hairdos and hair dyed in orange or fuchsia. These project the impression that a person has not taken a bath for weeks.

What are your favorite shopping places?

I always prefer department stores. It saves time and effort. I enjoy visiting Saks Fifth, Neiman Marcus, I. Magnin, Lord and Taylor, Bloomies in New York and San Francisco, Harrods in London but one thing that excites me are the street fairs in New York. They sometimes stretch from the 45th to the 90th and I wouldn’t tire looking at every item from one side of the street to another. Do you know that I was able to get an antique Italian black cameo and some coral with turquoise pendants from India? Flea markets are quite interesting too, you’ll be amazed at the wonderful things you can find there.

Which flea market find are you proudest of?

I was able to get this antique cushion cover in black satin with such intricate embroideries with beads on them in one of the flea markets in Paris. I had it framed and it stands out as a wall decor.

What are the oldest items in your wardrobe? The items most treasured by you?

I have this lizard clutch bag with tiny metal flowers daintily placed on the frame which my mother bought in Rustan’s San Marcelino a long time ago and it still looks good. She also gave me a black evening bag studded with stones purchased from Heacocks which I have been using since I was single. Another one is her croco bag which dates back to the ’50s in a classic style. These are the oldest and most precious because you won’t see them around anymore. Besides, I revere them because they were given by my late mother.

What fashion legacy would you like to leave your daughter?

I do have a solid gold Rolex watch with interchangeable leather straps which was a gift from my mother after our trip to Japan in 1956. But that’s only a material thing. What’s more important are the moral values which were instilled by my mother in me during my formative years. The love for God, the proper attitude towards life and discipline are the important ingredients to a happy life. I think at this point in my life, I have already given these to my children, especially my daughter. And they will cherish these for the rest of their lives.

You mentioned that you do a lot of traveling on the job. Tell us about the personalities you’ve met.

I cannot forget how I encountered Prince Rainier. My brother Celso, his wife Gina and I were on our way to a church in the upper ’80s in Manhattan when we bumped into him by the church door. The night before that, I saw him in the papers being in town on his way to Washington to unveil the bust of Princess Grace. That morning, I couldn’t believe he was right in front of me. Inside the church, I had to look back to make sure he really was the prince. We followed him after the Mass and when he stopped at one of the shops, I approached him and shyly asked, "Aren’t you Prince Rainier?" He immediately confirmed with a smile and graciously granted our request for a picture with him. We were so lucky to see him and even had a picture with him. Imagine even if you go to Monaco, you will rarely have the chance to see him.

Julio Iglesias was another personality that I cannot forget. His suave ways would simply sweep any woman off her feet.

Prince Juan Carlos de Borbon and Princess Sophia looked so regal when we met them at Fort Santiago.

Queen Sirikit looked so serene while watching the fashion show presented by Pitoy Moreno where I modeled a beautiful Maria Clara with my partner, then presidential son Arthur Macapagal, at the palatial home of Luis Araneta.

I also remember Franco Nero during the International Movie Film Festival at Fort Santiago, and Virna Lisi and Van Cliburn during the latter’s concert at CCP.

Gianfranco Ferre gladly posed with me during the cocktail party of Dior in the early ’90s.

Girard Pipart was the designer of Nina Ricci who came over to participate in a grand show Rustan’s organized together with Lanvin, Hanae Mori and other prestigious brands.

Bernard Lanvin looked so tall and handsome at the dinner hosted by the Tantocos during his visit.

Leonardo and Fiorucio Ferragamo were so down-to-earth. You wouldn’t think they are who they are.

Sandro Magli of DiSandro shoes is quite shy and more formal in his ways unlike his wife Manu who was so bubbly.

Christian Louboutin, a good friend of Maritess Tantoco, is very casual in his ways.

Stuart Weitzman is a true New Yorker who is so low-key, loves to talk and is always with a smile. He would always be dressed in a black T-shirt as compared to Sandro Magli who was always in a suit.

Neil Sedaka was so gentle and always laughed at the jokes of Cesar Gabaldon during our night out at the Safari Resto.

Frankie Avalon had a pictorial with me for a magazine and I was the envy of many of my teenage friends.

Nat King Cole was so gracious and I regretted not having a photo with a great singer.

Harry Belafonte mesmerized me when he shook my hand and gazed at me as if I was the only woman on earth. I liked him so much that I had to catch one of his shows in NY.

George Hamilton was another suave guy.

What dreams have you yet to fulfill as a designer?

I always joke that I wish I could participate in a grand fashion show in Paris together with the greats like Valentino, Lagerfeld, Versace, Armani and Givenchy. Isn’t that quite a dream? Seriously speaking, I would like to continue to satisfy the needs of my clientele and to reciprocate the trust the Tantoco family has given through the years.