Zei Tgeist

Fashion was only institutionalized at the turn of the 20th century and since then, it has captured more than anything else in the world the spirit of the times. Look at the the unconstricted form of the rebellious Twenties fashion, the spartan styles of the Depression era of the 30s, the liberated elan of the ’60s and ’70s, the opulent power garments of the Eighties and the minimalist clothes that pervaded the recession era of the Nineties.

2002 looks ahead but still embraces threads from the past. In the past, progression was defined to be Jetson-like bubble suits. Today, it’s more about individuality. It is taking a more melodramatic or adventurous take on clothing. Fashion has taken a poetic turn, filled with character and emotion. It has joined the realm that defines modern aesthetics as is functional art. Unlike in the past wherein people dressed according to social stature or provenance, fashion today has evolved into something of a physical reflection of oneself and whatever intellectual and creative fascinations one may possess.

Mega, U of Rustan’s, the Philippine International School of Fashion, the Canadian Embassy and the Canadian Chamber of Commerce presented 10 admirable talents who exercised their skills in the art of fashion. The second Young Designer’s Competion proved to be an event that took the breath away of everyone present.

Alex Pigao, Young Designer Competition 2002 winner: "It runs in the family."

While most choose to float in chiffon, Alex envisioned a different method in using the diaphanous and dainty fabric. He shredded them piece by piece using chiffon floss to make garments that exceeded the precincts of the human mind in terms of creativity. The designs are ironic takes on classic silhouettes from the ’40s and ’50s. Amidst the flurry of texture, strong lines and visible contours gave the fuzzy frocks an unequalled brand of elegance.

Alex’s mother held a diploma Estroetas Insudtrial Arts school, proving that Alex’s creative juices were also a result of his artistic provenance. He would inspire himself as a young child watching Bb. Pilipinas and gazing at the stylish evening gowns. In his collection, Alex’s infatuation with glamour was very much evident as he unapologetically played with details and structure. Yet, his irreverent use of fabric is what puts his clothes a ladder up from the rest.

Alex’s Mongolian Ava Gardner-inspired looks are sure to be seared in the memories of everyone, but more importantly he has introduced an innovative way of reinterpreting the old. It is said that fashion moves in circles and that everything is inevitably repeated in an almost verbatim manner. Alex’s designs break that chestnut.

James Reyes: "I just felt like doing a good challenge and finding out more of what else I can do."

James’ interest in achitecture and sculpture is very evident in his linear designs. His austere and spartan designs evoke purity and probity. Simplicity is decidedly the theme for James’ collection, thus the nun-like look.

Chris Diaz: "The local fashion scene will be further strengthened and influenced by a romantic and futuristic style."

The collection of Chris Diaz is somewhat of a melange of our childhood memories, bold sexuality, bestial desires and our desire for creative autonomy. A little hard to swallow for the faint of heart, but it is a spoonful of the best Beluga caviar for the adventurous fashion pundit. Chris plays with my mind with assorted prints, creating a witty repertoire of fun, irreverence and a unconventional take on femininity. From cartoonish prints mixed with playboy bunny lingerie details- Chris’ woman has the irresistible charm of a child woman.

Roel Rosal: "There will be changes in the kind of material, color, prints and accessories."

When I look at Roel Rosal’s designs, I think of Bianca Jagger on top of a white horse strutting around without a care in Studio 54. His wildly sexy styles play on the animalistic nature of every fun-loving party animal. He sticks to the hedonistic mindset of the ’80s as he boldly cuts his garments in the most unexpected places. The hoop hardware that is ubiquitously found in most of his designs alludes to nights of endless dancing and bourgeois sort of decadence that can only mean free-flowing champagne and a solemn promise to live the good life.

Mich Dulce: "There can all be these experimental and brilliant designs, but if the market is close-minded and still remains a cookie cutter in the manner of dressing and unappreciative in the theatrical aspect of clothing, you can’t expect creativity to flourish as it should."

I’ve seen Mich’s works from way back, even before she left for school. I have always seen her as a prodigy, and just like every prodigy her genuis is intrinsic in her spirit. Theatrical surely is the appropriate word to describe Mich’s work. Her medleys of indegenious textures and fabrics, hints of fairy tale magic, spiced up by street spunk – Mich is surely far from being a cookie cutter couturier. The enchanting tenor of her designs is captivating and thought-provoking. Another thing to note about Mich’s style is her insertion details in the most unexpected places – ruffle a little off the side, a rossette pinned on the sleeve. The most arresting element of her work, however, is how she uses the tepid tones of biege and similarly natural hues in an edgy yet not disgraceful manner. Mich’s designs signify the progressive accelaration of the future as she advocates liberality without pretensions.

Ivarluski Aseron: "The Philippine fashion industry will be one of the leading lights in the global scene, breaking ground in new techniques, pioneering in fabric design and making valuable contribution to trends and style."

Ivar Aseron’s bold distressed looks reminded me of the Bride of Central St. Martin. With a rebellious and peculiar streak to his designs, Ivar shows that he thinks out of the box. The use of light layers of white chiffon softens his rather edgy designs. The frothy quality of his garments evokes an oneric spirit. He balances his designs by interplaying with defined lines and abstract contrasts. It’s very ice queenish, but also very Planet of the Ape-ish – I can’t decide. Whether his designs inspire thoughts of the future or the ice age, Ivar surely knows what it means to be bold.

RCXY Bautista: "I wanted to get serious and master the craft."

RCXY Bautista’s talents were discovered by one of the industry’s power players, Robbie Carmona. Working first as a stylist for Robbie’s production company, RCXY realized that he wanted to do more than just mix and match ingenious outfits and to make them instead. A self-confessed Menudo fan in his early days, RCXY’s tastes have evolved to a somewhat playful variety of punk. His combination of fatigue and clasically ornate appliqués creates a collage that unexpectedly evokes hints of nature. As for his use of shape, it is loose and unconstricted, contrasted with his head-hugging headpieces- it perfectly reflects his anarchic nature. With the colorful war paint and unpenitent splash of color on the stark white pieces, RCXY wants to remind us all that the ’80s wasn’t so bad after all.

Edgar Buyan: "I can’t remember the so-called turning point in my life when I realized that this is what I wanted to do, but somehow I knew that since then I was destined to be a fashion designer."

If Pretty in Pink was made today, the millennium’s Molly Ringwald would have been overjoyed with Edgar’s rosy confections. Being the only fashion rebel in her high school, her character Andie knew that being an individual was king. Unfortunately, that movie was made in the heart of the Cyndi Lauper-loving Eighties. Edgar’s pieces hold the fun-loving nature of rock n’ roll, but with his simple patterns and ungodly attention to detail, his clothes strike one as Schiaparelli on a calm day. Bold, feminine, strong – Edgar truly captures the sprit of having an iron sense of being. It can also be seen in his symbolic use of contrasting fabrics such as canvas and gauze, that finding oneself is achieved by going through adverse conditions in life. His jarring take on being a woman is unexpected and refreshing.

Lizzane Cua: "I’ve always been intrigued with the idea of beauty and how it can be achieved through fashion in an infinite number of ways."

Lizzane’s use of diverse fabrics such as velvet, suede, peach amuzen crepe fabric combined with metallic and plain linen creates garments that remind me of those Chiparus women from the art deco ’20s. The mosaic patterns set on an austere background only highlight the nostalgic drama of Lizzane’s designs. It whispers of a bygone era, yet with its defined shapes it possesses the spirit of the modern. Adding mystery to her look, Lizzane accesorizes her outfits with fanciful venetian-like masks. The silent beauty of her collection captures that refined grace of a woman who does not need to say anything to make a statement.

LZ Punzalan: "Deciding to be a fashion designer was more like a craving that needed to be satisfied – a passion that had to be fulfilled."

If it’s ever possible to achieve structural deconstruction, then LZ has almost perfected the art. He takes apart garments and assembles them into flattering pieces. Each portion has such a strong and almost overwhelming personality to it that to see all pieces together is exhausing only because of all the decorative elements put in them. His collection is a fusion of different cultures, generations and ideologies that boil only to one thing – be yourself.