Raid your man's closet
November 8, 2001 | 12:00am
Androgyny is having a fashion moment. There is something powerful about wearing a men’s suit. Women are rediscovering the tux, ties and men’s lace-up shoes in their wardrobe. During the recent collections for women, designers took reference to menswear. This major influence was last seen in the Eighties when women wore "power suits" to show their position and strength.
The trend all started when women needed to dress more practically. The two world wars drastically changed lives. The men needed to fight the war and women were left to replace them at work. Women started to work in factories when it used to be only a man’s territory. Soon, the need for easy and utilitarian dressing arose. The economic situation also encouraged women to dress simply. Times were hard and fabric was scarce. Women’s wear became masculine and tailored. A newfound freedom in dressing developed. Marlene Deitrich and Katharine Hepburn also popularized the use of trousers in public during the period.
Women of the Twenties were considered tomboyish. The flapper girl showed masculine manners. She smoked, drank and expressed her opinions. She sported short hair and was flat-chested. The "smoking suit" also became a major trend. Oversized pajamas worn while elegantly holding a cigarette holder and reading a magazine was the look for lounging. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel was a premier fashion designer of the time and replaced corsets with casual elegance and comfort. She revolutionized women’s dressing when she introduced trousers in women’s wardrobes.
As if there is not enough choice in women’s labels today, women have started to raid men’s stores as well. In London, Harrod’s and Joseph’s menswear buyers have started to consider women during their buying trips, according to the story "Man Hunt" by Marie Creac’h in the September 2001 British Vogue. She also mentioned that Agnes B adapted some jackets in her men’s collection to fit the women’s line. And at Gucci, women go to the men’s section when the slim-cut trousers have run out in the women’s section. While Hedi Slimane not only has male fans but also female ones. Cate Blanchett and Catherine Deneuve were at the front row seats of the Christian Dior men’s collection to add a Slimane suit in their closet. Of course, there is also Helmut Lang who has been making tailored men’s suits for women since the Nineties when the decade stressed functionality. And who could forget Yves Saint Laurent’s "le smoking" women’s tuxedo in the late Sixties?
Through history, women have been fascinated with the men’s wardrobe. For men, clothing is mainly about utility and function. The sharply tailored suit also projects power and position. All these women want.
You don’t have to go far to be of-the-moment. Just raid your man’s closet.
Grab those crisp shirts, cummerbunds, neckties, cords and boy’s jackets!
Send queries and suggestions to joycestalder@hotmail.com
The trend all started when women needed to dress more practically. The two world wars drastically changed lives. The men needed to fight the war and women were left to replace them at work. Women started to work in factories when it used to be only a man’s territory. Soon, the need for easy and utilitarian dressing arose. The economic situation also encouraged women to dress simply. Times were hard and fabric was scarce. Women’s wear became masculine and tailored. A newfound freedom in dressing developed. Marlene Deitrich and Katharine Hepburn also popularized the use of trousers in public during the period.
Women of the Twenties were considered tomboyish. The flapper girl showed masculine manners. She smoked, drank and expressed her opinions. She sported short hair and was flat-chested. The "smoking suit" also became a major trend. Oversized pajamas worn while elegantly holding a cigarette holder and reading a magazine was the look for lounging. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel was a premier fashion designer of the time and replaced corsets with casual elegance and comfort. She revolutionized women’s dressing when she introduced trousers in women’s wardrobes.
As if there is not enough choice in women’s labels today, women have started to raid men’s stores as well. In London, Harrod’s and Joseph’s menswear buyers have started to consider women during their buying trips, according to the story "Man Hunt" by Marie Creac’h in the September 2001 British Vogue. She also mentioned that Agnes B adapted some jackets in her men’s collection to fit the women’s line. And at Gucci, women go to the men’s section when the slim-cut trousers have run out in the women’s section. While Hedi Slimane not only has male fans but also female ones. Cate Blanchett and Catherine Deneuve were at the front row seats of the Christian Dior men’s collection to add a Slimane suit in their closet. Of course, there is also Helmut Lang who has been making tailored men’s suits for women since the Nineties when the decade stressed functionality. And who could forget Yves Saint Laurent’s "le smoking" women’s tuxedo in the late Sixties?
Through history, women have been fascinated with the men’s wardrobe. For men, clothing is mainly about utility and function. The sharply tailored suit also projects power and position. All these women want.
You don’t have to go far to be of-the-moment. Just raid your man’s closet.
Grab those crisp shirts, cummerbunds, neckties, cords and boy’s jackets!
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