A balmy Baler weekend

Described just last year by Yahoo Southeast Asia as one of the top surfing spots in the Philippines, Baler was on my list of places I had to visit. Google called it its top Philippine beach destination as early as 2009; and while the premier surfing site, Sabang Beach, has gray sand, the nine-ft. waves that greet you throughout the day from September to March are a sight to behold. There’s a laid-back culture that makes this sleepy town, nestled beyond the Sierra Madre mountains, a wonderful respite from the city life we’ve grown so used to. The rugged terrain, the shifting winds, the cool nights, all make for an experience very different from, say, Boracay. In Baler, there’s a raw aspect to nature that’s still there to be enjoyed and revel in; while accommodations such as the less-than-a-year-old Costa Pacifica, provide all the comfort and amenities (and wonderful food) that one may seek as a comfort zone when leaving home.

Managed by the Raintree Hospitality Group that used to co-run Discovery Shores, and have a bevy of restaurants under their belt (M Cafe, Chelsea, Kabila, Terraz, etc.), Costa Pacifica has upped the culinary stakes in the region. With comfortable rooms that face Sabang Beach, my mornings in Baler were composed of vistas of stupendous waves, bracing winds, embracing sunshine, and hearty breakfasts — a combination that’s hard to beat. The rooms may not be as plush or luxurious as Shores in Bora, but given the surfing, partying Baler lifestyle that’s become the signature of this set of Coppola’s Apocalypse Now film in the late-1970s, what more could one ask for?

Since late last year, Tootsie Echauz-Angara, wife of Sen. Sonny Angara, was extending the invitation to go to Baler. Well, I finally made it, thanks to the incessant prodding of Costa’s Ferdi Salvador, and wouldn’t you know it, on hand to be our unofficial host was Tootsie’s father-in-law, former senator Ed Angara! And remember what I said about the gray sands of Sabang Beach? Well, just a short drive away, on the same winding mountain road that one takes to reach the PAGASA Weather Station, one can descend to Dicasalarin Cove’s white sand beach, where for a minimal fee, one can spend the day amidst the rustic yet full-amenities cottages found on this private property that belongs to the Angara family. On one promontory, one can trek up to the Ed Calma-designed lighthouse that overlooks the desolate majesty that is the Pacific Ocean.

I don’t particularly like long drives, so if there is one minor drawback to Baler, it’s that with no regular commercial flights at present, the drive to Baler is at best, a good five hours. Ferdi and Marc Soong take the credit for making that drive one of high-performance comfort. For early that morning of my Manila departure, a chauffeur-driven Jaguar XJ was placed at my service. With twin sunroofs, backseat massage mechanisms, and a drive that redefines smooth, the XJ more than proved that even luxury vehicles can take our country roads with abandon. In fact, Baler became a veritable living showcase of the Soong-represented automotive brand — David Celdran  (there to film an episode of ANC’s Executive Class) had use of a Ferrari, while Marc and his family arrived in a Rover.

My stay was limited to two full days, and I didn’t get the chance to explore the other natural wonders that abound in Baler; such as the Ditumabo Mother Falls (with its 140-feet drop), or have an Instagram moment with Baler’s fabled balete tree. But if anything, that just shows how Baler beckons with numerous sights to behold and experience. And yes, I will take that surfing lesson the next time. For this trip, it was more than enough, to enjoy the sights, revel in the company, and savor the delicious food — Baler is a balmy slice of paradise, waiting to be discovered time and again!