Charmed by Caramoan

Like a beautifully choreographed dance, Caramoan is a masterpiece of islands, sea and people coming together in a synchronized beat, rhythm and motion.

In this municipality on the Caramoan Peninsula in the province of Camarines Sur, Caramoan effortlessly showcases what seems to be a timeless and unbelievable imprint of God on earth. Pick an island, say a prayer, and be assured that God will hear your plea. After all, Caramoan is a paradise where its lush and unadulterated bounty is a testament to a graceful and symbiotic relationship between man and nature.

Island hopping in Caramoan is a totally sublime experience. You hop on an island and instantaneously become enamored of it. You marvel at the craggy limestone cliffs that imposingly guard the island you are settled in. But in a few heartbeats, your eyes spot another island across where you are; so you hop on the motorized banca again to discover another island of your desire. This happy experience of hopping from one island to another continues the whole day. Caramoan is a peninsula with seemingly interconnected beautiful islands that try to upstage each other to the advantage of a visitor whose wanderlust is insatiable.

At the Manlawi sandbar, guests can have a picnic.

Here’s a quick, partial rundown of Caramoan’s stunning islands: Gota, Horandayan, Lahuy, Lahos, Pitogo, Matukad, Sabitang Laya, Minalahos, Hunongan, Cotivas, Tinago, Haponan, Basod, Catanhawan, Manlawi and Kalagikhik.

Because of its beautiful, secluded islands and white sand beaches, Caramoan has been, for years, the favorite shooting location of Survivor, an international reality television game show where contestants compete for fame and fortune in an isolated wilderness. For instance, the Gota Beach was the shooting location of Koh-Lanta Caramoan 2008, the French version of the reality show. Other Survivor editions that have finished shooting — and will shoot again — in Caramoan include Israel, Serbia and India.

The preservation of the environment comes tops in the priority list of CamSur Gov. LRay Villafuerte. He understands fully the significant role of the environment in the existence of man. Likewise, he has a deep grasp of the reciprocal responsibility of the people as vanguards of Mother Nature. Recently, Villafuerte and the province of CamSur received a second Guinness World record for planting more than a million mangrove trees in San Rafael, a barrio in the town of Ragay. This environmental undertaking was part of the governor’s El Verde Movement, which aims to plant over 20 million trees in the province before the year’s end.

A fishing village in Sitio Saribungay, Colongcogong.

In the cove of Tugawe, where the resplendent Tugawe Cove Resort is located, the waters are glassy and sparkling in all shades of blue. The luxurious boutique resort, opened last year by owners Ernesto and Cecilia Magtuto, sits on a 22-hectare pristine property where only five hectares is developed. It has 23 well-appointed cottages on the hilltop, hillside and by the natural lagoon. The members of the resort staff are courteous and kind, more than willing to go out of their way to make sure the stay of their guests will become very memorable. Each room has its own butler — make that a very knowledgeable butler. Not only are the staff of the resort gentle and caring, they also serve guests sumptuous food. The resort’s lip-smacking version of laing, Bicol’s signature dish, has that tolerable spicy kick. The blue marlin sautéed in garlic and butter will leave a delicious impression on the palate. And if you believe the Norwegian producer of Survivor who once ate at Tugawe Cove Resort, as narrated by Tugawe’s supervisor Herzon Bien, the resort’s pepper steak is the best in the world.

For my BFF Christine Dayrit and NASA telescope engineer Tony Rodriguez and me, one of the highlights of our stay at Tugawe Cove Resort is meeting a lady masseuse named Arlene Zapanta-Leoncio. Arlene’s approach to massage therapy is holistic. She carefully and lovingly combines the traditional hilot massage with reflexology and shiatsu modalities. This signature touch of Arlene is now known as the Tugawe massage. Her every kneading and tapping on your body dispels toxic energy, releasing you of your past hurts and pains. Arlene has a magical touch; after all, she’s known as Naga City’s spa guru.

Dusks at Tugawe Cove Resort are a splendid splay of pinkish hue. Total darkness does not occur here because the stars strewn brightly on the horizon keep you company. Stargazing is best experienced while lounging in the infinity pool. Just when you’re under the impression that the stars are coming down to you one by one, you realize that hundreds of fireflies surround you.

The author with STAR travel columnist Christine Dayrit and NASA telescope engineer Tony Rodriguez frolic on Matukad island.

There are nights, however, when the stars are shy to shine in Tugawe. Fret not because the stars that do not appear in the sky are substituted by dinoflagellates that make a scintillating apparition in the sea. According to Christine and Tony who experienced the same magical moment in Mosquito Bay in Vieques, Puerto Rico, dinoflagellates are microorganisms that are part animal and part plant. Their bioluminescence is courtesy of the Vitamin B-12 that these organisms scavenge in the waters. This nutrient is formed when submerged mangrove leaves and roots decompose. These organisms light up when roused by any movement in the water. So, imagine our delight when we experienced seeing “stars” brightly outlining the outriggers of the motorboat with magical illumination in the middle of the sea.

The moment you set foot in Caramoan and witness the coming together of its beautiful islands, sea and people, you debate with yourself whether you have just entered dreamland or you’re experiencing reality. Time and space seem to take a backseat in Caramoan as the islands unrelentingly flirt with your senses.

Caramoan is a testament to the irresistible beauty of nature and man’s overwhelming desire to protect it.

Kabangahan beach in Caramoan effortlessly showcases what seems to be an imprint of God on earth.

(For more information on Caramoan, please call the CamSur Tourism Office at 054-477-3172 or visit www.camsur.com. For inquiries about Tugawe Cove Resort, please call 0918-965-7885 or 0917-501-6711or e-mail tugawecoveresort@gmail.com.)

(You may e-mail me at bumbaki@yahoo.com or follow me on Twitter @bum_tenorio. Have a blessed Sunday!)