Conquistador

The recently concluded Fall fashion shows were mostly centered around three main themes: irony, nostalgia and power. While Fall comes with a set of expected and requisite color palettes, material selections and severe silhouettes, the most provoking designers this year have instead opted to offer a full sensorial experience that compels one to travel through time and space. 

There’s a fascination for David Bowie as seen in Balmain and Dries Van Noten, which is ultimately reminiscent of the femme fatale conceived during the ‘80s. Aesthete wanderers like Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren (of Viktor and Rolf Dutch pride) go way back to the medieval crusades age whilst still emphasizing superior skill in tailoring. Moving towards a more tribal and native direction are Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler with their crafty, digital prints inspired by native American blankets. Meanwhile, hints at fashion fetish are all but impossible to ignore with designers like Marc Jacobs’ kink-infused French maid renditions at Louis Vuitton and Stefano Pilati’s nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium era. Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, just the same, reverts back to the call of the wild with panther prints and other feline design elements.

Tailored jacket, skirt and tulle skirt all by Lui and Jon; cardigan by Shanon Pamaong; wedge peeptoe shoes by Virtual Mae; bag by Aranaz; neckpieces by Ronald Mabanag.

Each of these inclinations  each extraordinarily innovative  is set to drive the design direction for the trends that will soon rule in the Fall. From the perspective of a single season segment in the fashion world, we zoom in on the essential elements and points of inspiration that allow for better assimilation of these up-and-coming looks into a localized environment. Moreover, we reconcile the aesthetically on-trend elements with pieces that are essentially wearable to achieve fashion dominion.

Lady warlock

Balmain gives a nod to ‘70s audacity while taking cue from David Bowie and his blinding jackets that feature metallic lapels, crystal encrusting and mirror mosaics.

Viktor and Rolf goes against the tides  moving centuries into the past to relive the crusades of the medieval times. Focusing on the patterns of a knight’s armor, the collection’s key elements include round frills, kilt-like pleated skirts and unstructured dresses.

Louis Vuitton’s femme fatale is more provoking than last year’s, taking on the image of the fetish-friendly provocateur. Structure was fundamental to the collection as seen in the cinched jackets and pencil skirts. Elements that finished off each look were puffed sleeves and collars in lace and appliqués.

Embellished dress by Alex Pigao; scarf by Accessorize; bracelet by Ronald Mabanag; metallic belt by Mango; lace-up booties by Virtual Mae.

Irony, androgyny

Alexander McQueen continues as a fashion heavyweight under the direction of Sarah Burton who built Fall’s collection on McQueen’s “heritage silhouettes.” What is deemed McQueen at its purest form are soft edges done with the highest regard for couture sensibilities. In true McQueen form, the buoyant trains of frayed organza are perfectly anchored on superbly structured bodices. Nobody can equal Yves Saint Laurent in creating masculine-feminine irony. Creative director for the house Stefano Pilati reinforces this with references from the YSL archives of the mid-’60s and ‘70s (undoubtedly the best years of Saint Laurent). The result, heady Bianca Jagger-inspired elements merged with rigid and lean pieces such as suits and jackets.

Nostalgia in print

Proenza Schouler creates digitalized versions of native American prints resulting in highly geometric and almost blinding prints. Dries van Noten merges David Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust with highly gilded Ballets Russes to offer a sensorial collage of embroidery, gilt prints, subtle brocades and snakeskin appliqués and jacquards.