Mad Opulence

Some, in fact many, might raise their eyebrows at the idea of excess. The lavish life generally typified by women in elaborate gowns, crown jewels and just about anything that qualifies as luxurious have somehow become a mere memory of Old-World opulence relived through images created in prevailing context. But there are those who continue to embrace the magnificence expressed through intricately-crafted jewels. With a strong sense of one’s self and individuality, we find that what is often times considered over-the-top survives boxed customs through pieces that dare to return to the opulent, albeit ludicrous, past. Here is one good reason why.

There is a beautiful madness to a period that celebrated excess. We find ourselves drawn to the hidden freedom from inhibitions made standard by today’s social blueprint. While it is best that one refrain from drawing too much attention to one’s self or indulging, we find through today’s jewelry a portal that takes us right to the heart of past centuries best defined by mad opulence.

As with past civilizations, embellishment has been integral in defining the culture, beliefs, practices and general lifestyle of its people. Ancient Greece, a world that has never ceased to mystify, immediately comes to mind when one first encounters the work of French designer Herve Van der Straeten. His eye for detail and innovation in jewelry design has major fashion labels like Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurent and Martine Sitbon coming to his workshop as they put together their runway collections. Using gold, the ore preferred by Pharaohs and other ancient nobilities because of its malleable and lustrous properties, Van der Straeten creates a world of contrasts sculpting neckpieces and earrings that frame one’s features while putting together a masterpiece that is both fascinating as it is seemingly dangerous.

In gleaming metal inspired by thorn motifs, corals and other intriguing forms, his latest collection, "Debauche," proves to be one of contemporary design’s most daring expressions of extreme indulgence. Van der Straeten’s pieces are delicate, giving them sensual appeal essential in attracting the discriminating eye of a jewelry collector. Just the same there is a sense of danger to the sharp edges, an unforgiving sheen to each piece that exhibits a distinct yet subtle seduction.

Opulence has not ceased to exist as one might immediately be inclined to perceive. Instead, it has evolved, taking a more comfortable place among the ranks of brilliant artists like Van der Straeten who has taken from the past magnificent elements that express luxury while integrating his very own modern design sensibilities.