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Checkmate

B HIVE - B HIVE By Bianca Salonga -
People play games. As a child, an afternoon spent playing hide-and-seek is nothing short of being in heaven. In time, one finds that games are something one never outgrows. Instead, games evolve into something that begins to involve other human faculties. Of the many things that people play, mind games are the type that, for some reason or another, most cannot seem to get enough of. To master a mind game is to be able to easily contain one’s emotions, to be uncanny when needed and to exhibit grace under extreme amounts of pressure. Manipulation and forward thinking are the most essential tools for survival. Strategy is a basis in measuring one’s strength. The abstract becomes the only tangible thing that matters.

This season, we take inspiration from one of the most popular mind games the world over. Here’s a royal salute to chess, a game that utilizes both the light and the dark. We capture every calculated move, distinct piece and yes, ulterior motive through the spectacular creations of the Young Designer’s Guild. We celebrate innovation through the beautiful faces of today’s "it" models Tanya Tangkian and Daphne Galvan as makeup artist and hair stylist Lourd Ramos gives them that inanimate, almost surreal look. Lenswoman Sara Black and digital ingenue Tatum Ancheta collaborate to compose striking photographs that will give justice to a game that mirrors the complex mind. In an industry where you are only as good as your last work, we put together a team that aims to do one thing – checkmate. Take a look at stylish mental warfare at its finest.
Knight
Colloquially, players refer to the Knights as the horse. This piece represents the armored cavalry. Louis Claparols, known for his embellished pieces and striking choice of color, finds new affection for this season’s jersey dress. Breathing definition into light fabric, Louis creates an intricate bib inspired by a Knight’s armor on the bodice that gives birth to a piece that is generally structured yet remains interestingly unfinished. The jersey is perfect for those whose style preference leans towards the relaxed and free flowing.
Bishop
In chess, the Bishop is one of the pieces that can move without restriction in distance. Much like James Reyes’ approach in design, the Bishop may be seen as a piece that is both monastic as it is modern. Putting together a caplet with abstract patchwork and a cube dress that create points around the bottom of the floor length skirt, James’ piece is an expression of boundless imagery. He adds animation to the piece with long straps on the neckline that may be tied around the neck or wrapped like a scarf.
Queen
The most powerful piece of the game is the Queen. In chess history, this piece was often referred to as the vizier or ferz. Ivarluski Aseron expresses the grandeur of royalty by creating a deep blue dramatic gown. In line with Hollywood’s attachment for classic drapery, beribboned tiers and larger-than-life ballroom skirts, Ivarluski’s number is a sculptured creation that embraces the intricacies and irony of femininity and empowerment. He gives the gown an empire waist, enhancing an all-powerful feel to the mighty piece that is the Queen.
King
In the world of chess, the King is the prize an opponent seeks to win. Hence, making it the most important piece. It is when a player’s King is captured that one is on checkmate. A creative whose work has long been admired for its zest, element of surprise and design depth, Joey Samson creates a piece that incorporates tailoring to a Spring/Summer 06’s fave trend, the men’s shirt. He patterns this piece after argyle prints and adds suggestive elements such as a portrait collar and medallions. The result – a number that is far from literal yet rich in detail and essence.
Rook
Rook was derived from the Persian term rokh that directly translates to chariot. Universally, however, castles represent rooks. Yvonne Quisumbing-Romulo’s mastery over construction and details is showcased in her interpretation of this piece as she utilizes weaving and brilliant fabric selection to a top that is simply striking. Her distinct silhouette and texture are put together in an almost unbelievably genius manner such that every element applied to her number creates an over-all effect that is nothing short of a masterpiece.
Pawn
Pawns are said to be the soul of chess. Promising, young designers Patty Eustaquio and Bryan Leyva work together to create pieces that will represent pikemen, foot soldiers, infantry. Bryan’s orange and amber number is reflective of this season’s love affair with loosely draped, goddess-inspired pieces. His silhouettes complement the woman’s shoulders while the bottom is nothing short of über-dramatic in layers that result to a smooth and irresistibly sexy texture.

Patty, on the other hand, embraces summer heat with a cool blue dress that is both romantic and quirky. Known for her fascination with contrasting elements, she puts together structured cutouts and an A-line silhouette with softer fabrics. Looks to the Edwardian craze, giving it a more playful twist to veer away from the serious nature of chess.

BORDER

CENTER

IVARLUSKI ASERON

JAMES REYES

JOEY SAMSON

LENSWOMAN SARA BLACK

LOUIS CLAPAROLS

ONE

PIECE

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