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Chef-turned-hotelier David Pardo Ayala: Merchant of happiness | Philstar.com
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Chef-turned-hotelier David Pardo Ayala: Merchant of happiness

OOH LA LAI - Lai S. Reyes - The Philippine Star
Chef-turned-hotelier David Pardo Ayala: Merchant of happiness
David Pardo Ayala, general manager, Discovery Primea

‘What makes Discovery Primea different is that we deliver a personalized experience; we establish a deep connection with our guests.’

After more than 20 years running kitchens and, later on, the full culinary department of all Discovery Hotels, there was no other way for David Pardo Ayala’s professional career but up. The Colombian-born chef has successfully transformed his culinary passion into a successful career as general manager of Discovery Primea since 2013.

For David, there isn’t a big difference between being a chef and being a hotelier as “both positions are akin to being the conductor of an orchestra.” “It’s like directing a full-fledged philharmonic,” shares David. “The thrill is in performing in unison, delivering remarkable music — in my case, remarkable food and superb dining experience — that will be treasured by the audience/guests for a long time.”

The transition also reminds him of the similar path professional basketball players take later on in their career. “You must evolve from playing on the court, and making the move to becoming a manager — nurturing the next generation of stars,” he says.

The operational experience and exposure to all hotel departments tucked under David’s executive chef toque made him an ideal candidate for such a move.

Chocolate Marquis for dessert

Getting to know the commander-in-chef

David couldn’t quite recall the first time he tried cooking. What he clearly remembers though is that he was already baking — using ready-made cake mixes — even before he turned 10. He then moved up to making pizzas at home. David even took lifestyle classes with the most prestigious chef in Colombia while still in high school.

And so, David never had any doubt that he wanted to become a professional chef someday. But it did take him a while to come to terms with it.

“Back in the ‘80s, being a chef was not the most glamorous of professions,” relates David. “At that time, becoming a cook felt like I was underutilizing my potential.”

Thankfully, he had very supportive and forward-thinking parents. “They just advised me to always give it my best shot,” he says.

Soon, David joined the National Hotel Management and Culinary School, which combines theoretical classroom training with a couple of years of actual industry experience. His culinary skills were further honed at Le Cordon Bleu, in Colombia, and later on at The Culinary Institute of America in upstate New York.

However, the most important training for any chef happens in the kitchens of great chefs, who would later become their mentors and help shape their culinary philosophy.

“I was fortunate enough to work at the kitchens of Restaurant Bouley, Lespinasse and Le Bernardin, in New York City,” he notes. “Spending time in the kitchens of chefs David Bouley, Eric Ripert and Gracy Kunz opened my eyes to a whole world of possibilities, right around the time that the culinary profession was being redefined at a global level. That’s where my culinary career was shaped and defined.”

David also admires the work of Alain Ducasse. “I had the great fortune of interviewing him during his first visit to the Philippines, as well as tasting his cuisine in several destinations across the world,” enthuses David.

Discovery Primea’s Flame Restaurant features an innovative take on Modern Asian cuisine.

On following his heart and passion

When asked what brought him to the Philippines, David hastily replies: “I fell in love with the most wonderful Filipina — my wife Gianella — while attending the Culinary Institute of America. A few years later, I left everything behind, and moved to Manila with just my knives, my cookbooks, and the bold recklessness of youth, to try to carve a future in the Philippines.”

Thank goodness, the love-struck chef didn’t have a hard time adjusting to his new life in Manila. “Colombia and the Philippines have so much shared Spanish heritage that I fell right at home from the beginning,” he relates. “I already spoke English fluently by the time I arrived, so there was no cultural shock or adjustment period.”

David and Gianella got married in 2002. Their daughter Sofia will turn 17 soon.

Given his busy schedule, David still finds time to cook for his family. “I cook breakfast for my daughter every single day at about 5:30 a.m. I try to keep these breakfasts interesting and out-of-the-box,” the doting dad proudly says. “For a chef, cooking at home is not a matter of recurring recipes. For me, the approach is more along the lines of ‘what do we have in the chiller,’ and coming up with something delish using available ingredients.”

His daughter, Sofia, calls it Iron Chef cooking, and “I think it’s pretty accurate,” David gushes.

Excellence wins

In the world of hotel management, David is a great admirer of Horst Schulze, the founder of The Ritz Carlton and Capella hotel companies.

“I recommend his book, Excellence Wins, to all young hoteliers and Hotel and Restaurant Management (HRM) students that I get to meet in my job as general manager,” he says.

According to David, both the hotel and F&B markets in the Philippines have grown increasingly knowledgeable and sophisticated. “The Filipino diners’ expectations are now shaped at a very early age, and are sky-high compared to when I first landed in Manila back in the ‘90s,” he adds. “They are well-traveled, and expect their hotel and restaurant experiences to match what they have experienced already abroad.”

This, he points out, pushed the quality of the F&B industry to levels never seen before. “Quality experiences that deliver high value-for-money will find success in the Philippines,” he says.

All hotels will claim to have the best products and services. But for David, what makes Discovery Primea different is that “we are intentionally designed to deliver a personalized experience. With only 140 rooms in our hotel, we are able to establish a very deep connection with our guests,” he enthuses. “More than a business transaction, our aim is to start relationships that will, in turn, make our guests and clients come back and recommend us.”

Pan-seared foie gras in brioche bun

The suite life

Located right smack in Makati’s central business district, Discovery Primea offers guests more than just a place to stay. The hotel’s commitment to culinary excellence has become a defining feature, driven by the vision of its former executive chef and now general manager, David Pardo Ayala.

And I got to experience all that and more during the hotel’s “Primea Girl Getaway,” a specially curated staycation package, in celebration of Women’s Month.

The seamless check-in procedure provided a glimpse into the refined service the hotel chain is known for. And as soon as Leona, the pretty and amiable hotel receptionist, opened the door of the Executive Suite, I knew that my husband Randy and I were in for a fab weekend treat.

Designed for prolonged stays with family and loved ones, the Primea Suite is elegantly appointed. It has a fully furnished kitchen and a front-load washing machine to boot.

The pampering began with a one-hour massage at Terazi Spa. Sophisticated yet subdued, the spa’s interiors — natural wood, neutral tones, and earthy hues — enhance the relaxing treatment that almost lulled me to sleep.

Snacks — Philly Cheesesteak and cheeseburger — were served poolside. Both are equally delish and filling. But one thing stood out: the fries — golden brown and crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, and with just the right amount of salt and pepper. This is what restaurant fries should be; not those sad, little soggy things you get out of the freezer. And Discovery Primea is pretty consistent. You’ll also get the same potato indulgence when you order the steak and frites on Tapenade’s weekend brunch menu.

Highlight of our culinary experience was the Dinner Tasting Menu at Flame. Just looking at the menu — prepared by executive chef Luis Chikiamco — made my head swim.

While steeped in Asian cuisine, chef Luis takes his training at the L’Institut Paul Bocuse, and experience at Michelin-starred restaurants plus stints in France and Mexico.

And so, while some dishes are recognizable, trust chef Chikiamco to give it a yummy and playful twist.

For me, the Pan-seared Foie Gras topped the menu. What looked like a burger sampler — served outside of a Chinese takeout box — turned out to be a flavor bomb. The richness of the foie gras was complemented by the apple compote and baby greens.

While enjoying the Chocolate Marquise for dessert and a cup of tea, I realized why David, just like Alain Ducasse, regarded himself as a “merchant of happiness” both in the kitchen and in the hotel lobby.

“We work to give people happy experiences that will live in their memories for a very long time,” he says with an impish grin.

To that, I say, mission accomplished!

* * *

“Primea’s Girl Getaway” is available until March 31.

For reservations, visit Discovery Primea or call 7955-8888.

CULINARY

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