In Roger Vivier’s fairytale world, precious handbags bloom with couture flowers
MANILA, Philippines — Returning to Roger Vivier’s Parisian boutique within the mythical, silvered walls of the Salle d’Argent on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, creative director Gherardo Felloni presents the second installation of the Roger Vivier “Pièce Unique” creations on the occasion of the Haute Couture season for spring-summer 2024.
Venturing into a fairytale world where precious handbags bloom with couture flowers, Roger Vivier expresses an unrelenting dedication to beauty and savoir-faire, transforming this historic room into a joyous celebration of fresh flowers reaching skywards in epic bouquets. Hiding within each densely colored spray, Pièce Unique evening handbags glint and sparkle in wondrous botanical forms.
The Viv’ Choc handbag, reinterpreted in one-of-a-kind artisanal designs for this Pièce Unique collection, is a draped shoulder bag with a chain strap and turnkey lock: a luxurious design and feat of romantic architecture. The elegant creation combines sculptural fabric with a sensual buckle, which is a reinterpretation of the iconic Roger Vivier buckle, and presents curved corners reminiscent of Monsieur Vivier’s sinuous Choc heel designed in 1959.
Inspired by an otherworldly classical garden with flowers gathered from around the globe, for this collection Felloni muses on the personalities and particularities of each varietal, anchored by the fluid architecture of the Viv’ Choc handbag with its soft, draped lines, central turnkey and bold, signature buckle. Hand embroidery is triumphant, echoing the delicate touch of Monsieur Vivier himself, who brought the fantasy of couture to the world of accessories throughout the second half of the 20th century.
From roses, lilies and daisies to violets, nigellas and cactus dahlias, exquisite, hand-crafted replicas and interpretations of these classical flora are executed in vivid color and 3D forms, demonstrating the extraordinary prowess of the atelier.
Roaming through the garden from one Pièce Unique to the next, myriad techniques are applied with the lightest touch: from sky blue nigellas with silk petals and feather pistils, to golden roses encrusted with metallic thread and crystal beads. Spring meadows and gardens of miniature blooms seem to envelop every inch of the Viv’ Choc’s soft volumes, as hand-painted feathers echo petals and blades of grass floating in the breeze amid iridescent sequins.
Taking cues from Felloni’s private jewelry collection, flowers like jewels are mounted “en tremblant” on black velvet with dark silver and giant rhinestone accents, while others touch upon the noble mythology of the lily — crafted here in fringed organza, golden metals, and hand-tinted feathers.
Complementing the opulent surface treatments of the Pièce Unique collection, artisanal developments transform the Viv’ Choc hardware, pushing 360-degree embellishment to new heights. At times, the signature Roger Vivier buckle is treated with new antique gold finishing or embedded with crystals, and decorative chain straps are adorned by artisans with dazzling pave stones. Each one-of-a-kind Pièce Unique handbag is the result of between 30 and 60 human hours of hand craftsmanship in the Roger Vivier atelier.
Sublimating the collection’s floral embroideries onto the body, a romantic series of Pièce Unique waistcoats continues Felloni’s evolution of the Roger Vivier silhouette, honoring Monsieur Vivier’s dedication to the idea of accessorizing from head to toe. A collarless construction in silk satin, silk organza or silk velvet becomes a blank canvas for magnificent craftsmanship, echoing the motifs of several Pièce Unique handbags. Requiring between 60 and 100 hours of hand craftsmanship, the one-of-a-kind exclusive designs are festooned with veritable flights of fancy, from multi-colored anemones or curled feather petals in blushing shades of pink, to a spring meadow of yellow marigolds and the creamy hues of cactus dahlias in baroque pearls and organza.
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In the Philippines, the Roger Vivier boutique is located in Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center, Makati City.
Roi Soleil
The lily, a blossom often entwined with regality, has been historically connected to nobility in France since the 13th century, and takes centerstage in the Piece Unique collection, where an amber-hued rendition of it serves as the inspiration for a bespoke pochette. The bag is enveloped in an array of hand-painted and dyed feathers. Attention to detail extends to the buckle and strap, carefully crafted to mirror antique jewelry. A gold finish and amber-hued crystals seamlessly integrate into the design, concealing themselves as integral components of the floral motif. The creation of this Pièce Unique took approximately 40 hours.
Tremblant
Entirely adorned in crystals, the Tremblant bag is a symphony of diverse floral motifs. The genesis of this masterpiece traces its roots to a necklace from the 1700s belonging to Gherardo Felloni. The “tremblant” mobile elements from the piece of jewelry are intricately replicated through delicate embroidery and rest upon a foundation of black velvet embellished with crystals and silver thread, selected to mirror the essence of the antique jewelry that sparked the bag’s inception. The creation of this Pièce Unique took approximately 50 hours.
Or, Rose
The foundation of this exquisite handbag is lustrous metallic gold bouclé, embellished with an array of golden roses meticulously embroidered using a 3D technique akin to crochet. This intricate process involves the delicate interweaving of fine thread, connecting miniature gold crystal beads. The hardware, too, embraces a golden allure, adorned entirely with topaz-colored crystals, covering the bag in a harmonious monochrome metallic aesthetic. The creation of this Pièce Unique took approximately 60 hours.
L’aube
Adorned with whimsically curled feather flowers, the bag unfolds its petals in a palette of ethereal pink, lilac, and fuchsia. Inspired by the cockscomb flower and Felloni’s profound admiration for bouquets in these distinctive shades, which have seamlessly woven themselves into the fabric of Roger Vivier’s visual narrative, this creation stands as a testament to his botanical passion. The buckle, a jewel in its own right, is meticulously encrusted with crystals transitioning gracefully from forest green to soft lilac and culminating in vibrant fuchsia. The chain handle, too, is adorned with radiant crystals. The creation of this Pièce Unique took approximately 40 hours.
Ne me quitte pas
This exquisitely adorned bag is enrobed in a profusion of anemone flowers, meticulously crafted from hand-painted feathers. Each blossom is adorned at its center with intricately embroidered beads placed atop leaves that have been meticulously embroidered with beads and petite sequins. The hardware, a testament to meticulous craftsmanship, is enveloped in a myriad of multi-colored crystals, mirroring the same refined palette as the petals of the anemones. The creation of this pièce unique took approximately 40 hours.
Dejeuner sur l’herbe
This enchanting handbag draws its inspiration from spring with its marigold flowers, chosen for their symbiotic harmony with the verdant tapestry of fresh grass. The base is adorned with iridescent round sequins strategically attached to evoke subtle protrusions, reminiscent of the delightful “imperfections” found in a natural meadow during spring. The amalgamation of these prominent sequins with smaller ones in harmonious hues, interspersed with long, slender feathers reminiscent of swaying blades of grass in a gentle breeze, mirrors the lively spirit of the season. Delicate yellow blooms, meticulously crafted from hand-dyed feathers, feature a darker crystalline center. The creation of this Pièce Unique took approximately 40 hours.
Tempete de neige
For this creation, iridescent sequins were meticulously sewn in 3D fashion, interwoven with crystals and real pearls. The dahlia, crafted from silk organza, gets its tubular form from a precise hot-iron technique. These botanical marvels, fashioned individually, are then delicately affixed. As a touch of regal embellishment, baroque pearls are chosen as adornments, strategically placed to bestow points of luminescence and a subtle dance of movement. The creation of this Pièce Unique took approximately 30 hours.
Violette de nuit
This sophisticated handbag draws inspiration from the violet flower. Meticulously cropped feathers form the petals. Enhancing the 3D essence, crystals were placed between the feathers as the underlying canvas of the bag. A bespoke pattern of baguette beads in pastel hues intertwines with small glass-bead flowers, evoking the delicate beauty of wildflowers. The resulting ensemble radiates a quiet sophistication. The creation of this Pièce Unique took approximately 40 hours.
Black Lily
Drawing inspiration from the regal burgundy-hued lily, an array of refined techniques converges in this bag, where golden metal lilies intertwine with organza ones adorned with fringed edges. Each organza blossom is embellished with crystals and real pearls. The metal flowers are meticulously sewn and assembled by an embroiderer. The creation of this Pièce Unique took approximately 36 hours.
Red cat
Individually crafted from silk satin, each petal is a masterpiece meticulously sewn together into dahlia flowers that envelop the entire expanse of the bag. The hardware, embellished with verdant crystals, mirrors the stems of these blossoms. These exquisite blooms find their essence in shiny silk satin, adding an extra layer of sophistication. The creation of this Pièce Unique took approximately 30 hours.
Bleu sauvage
This bag is adorned with a multitude of petite nigella flowers crafted from light blue organza. Each bloom is elevated with silver crystals and feathers embroidered at their centers. The bag’s foundation, a canvas of silk in aquamarine, provides an elegant backdrop. The clasp and chain strap seamlessly extend this ethereal lightness, adorned with crystals. The creation of this Pièce Unique took
approximately 60 hours.
Piquant
The silk blooms on this refined handbag closely echo cactus dahlia flowers, with their tips dyed a delicate pink. This tint extends to blush-pink embroidery details. The base is adorned with sequins, sewn in a 3D manner and interspersed with crystals and beads. The dahlia, fashioned from silk organza, reveals tubular petals shaped through a hot-iron technique. Each flower is individually crafted and
delicately applied across the base. Elevating the ensemble, baroque pearls are strategically positioned to provide points of luminescence and subtle movement. The creation of this Pièce Unique took approximately 30 hours.
