Philippine coffee: The happy and ‘very sad story’ — café expert

MANILA, Philippines — Good news: coffee consumption in the Philippines is in meteoric rise, a coffee expert told Philstar.com.

While in previous generations, the young were discouraged by elders to drink coffee for fear of caffeine, today, coffee appreciation especially among the youth has exponentially increased as they are more into fancy and experimental blends as compared to others who still prefer their coffee black, with milk, espresso or the more traditional ways, said Robert Francisco, Managing Director, Ueshima Coffee Co. (UCC) Academy Philippines. 

Coffee culture is such a craze in the country that “The Philippines is the only country in the world with UCC coffee shops,” said Francisco.

“In Japan, you won’t even know that it’s UCC,” he enthused, noting that UCC Asia Pacific “is watching the Philippines and how we create the UCC brand of café.”

Although UCC cafes in the Philippines, such as the recently opened UCC Clockwork in One Ayala Mall in Makati City, carry out Japanese-inspired menus as a nod to the brand’s Japanese roots, the Philippine franchise has total freedom and does not need prior approval from headquarters for its dishes or concoctions, said Francisco, who is among those responsible for developing the products for the local franchise.

“We’re very traditional yet flexible. We’re traditional Japanese but we can innovate. I think we’re breaking new ground because what you see in the Philippines is different in Asia Pacific. We don’t have cafes outside the Philippines. So we are now the benchmark… other cafes also do not have food,” Francisco expounded on what makes UCC cafes, including Clockwork, unique from its many competitors.

UCC alone has expanded to many stores outside Metro Manila to include many other products and franchising.

But bad news: the country’s coffee supply cannot keep up with the demand. 

In UCC alone, over 10 tons of coffee a month are sold to its stores and clients. “It’s more than 10,000 kilos a month, easily, very easily,” Francisco affirmed.

“Coffee is not only used in hot or cold drinks. It’s used in other ingredients now… candles, rubs… others take it with alcohol,” he pointed out.

Moreover, the country’s progress into a 24-hour industry has pumped up more clamor for a caffeine fix.

“The Philippines, especially in Manila, it’s not only two shifts. It’s a 24-hour industry na. We have the call centers, the outsourcing sector… so coffee is not only for breakfast. Some people’s breakfast is actually at 10 in the evening when they’re getting off work…” Francisco explained.

“The country produces only probably eight to 10% of the total consumption,” he shared.

“The demand is increasing so much that the supply cannot cope, that’s why even if our farmers has increased their production, the gap of shortage is getting bigger pa rin. Our consumption is increasing way really, really too fast.”

According to him, local inventory of coffee harvests this year ran out already as early as March or April.

“Unfortunately, that’s the very sad story about Philippine coffee. As much as UCC wants to really showcase a lot of local origins like coffee from Bukidnon, Benguet, Sultan Kudarat, Mount Apo, you cannot compete and find an inventory. And if you do find an inventory, you cannot find it again. You cannot get it consistently. Even if we want to carry it in all our outlets, hindi, mauubusan,” Francisco fretted.

As a solution, what the local franchise does is to inject Philippine coffee as off-menu items that can be sold only in select areas, he revealed.

“But it’s quite costly because it’s very, very unique and flavorful,” Francisco said of their local franchise’s brews featuring coffee from the likes of Benguet and Mt. Apo.

Though local coffee is rare, UCC Clockwork boasts of its globally-sourced coffee cooked by the brand’s latest machines, including the brand’s signature Sumiyaki that can be taken cold, which Francisco recommends for hot weather.

“What we maintain here are all traditional manners of cooking – drip system, siphon, cold brew – nand’un pa rin ‘yung mga traditional,” Francisco said of UCC Clockwork in One Ayala, which Francisco described as having a “simple” yet “warm” ambience with its wood details and plants, “not futuristic, not metal or industrial, but bright and comfortable,” he added.

BBQ Wagyu Beef Burger, Miso Mushroom Risotto with Salmon, S’mores Feast, Tuscan Chicken Spaghetti, and Meatloaf with Gravy, are among the brand’s recommendations from its ala carte menu, while for beverages, Sumiyaki, UCC Special Blend, Kori Kohi, and the newest concoctions such as Black Sesame Cream Cheese Iced Coffee, Tiramisu Latte, Clockwork Iced Tea, and Lion’s Mane Mushroom Coffee are among the must-try’s. 

"Coffee holds a significant place in Filipino households, offering an opportunity to educate consumers about its diverse potential…” stated UCC Ueshima Coffee Philippines, Inc. Chief Executive Officer Hubert Young.