How to Cook Fish

People love eating fish because it is healthy — it is a great source of protein — and when put together properly, it can be developed into scrumptious meals. Many cooks are at a loss as to how to handle fish, either putting too many spices or overcooking it, thus reducing its quality.

Here are some easy tips that will help you when dealing with fish.

• Always buy fresh fish.

It is very important to buy the freshest fish you can because it is highly perishable and its quality decreases the longer the storage time is. I always tell my students that a fresh kill will give the best results, though it may sometimes seem cruel. The fresher the fish, the better the taste. If you buy fresh fish and decide that you are not ready to cook it yet, it can be stored in the freezer for a maximum of two days; otherwise the fish will lose its firmness unless, of course, you use a blast freezer, which is used by exporters and big food establishments.

• Always look at the eyes.

Looking through the eyes of a woman is the same as looking through the eyes of the fish. It should be clear and a little bit bulging (not sore-eyes red). If the eyes are opaque and have become dull, then that means that it is not that fresh. The head should be firmly attached. Another indication that it is fresh is when the fins are up as if waving and saying "Hello!" When the fins are pointing down and flat, say goodbye to your purchase.

• Touch the fish, look at the blood, and smell the fish.

When I was studying at the Ritz in Paris, France, chef Christophe Pouy emphasized the importance of feeling the fish, looking at its blood, and smelling it. When touching the fish, the flesh should spring back like a sponge cake and should never form a dent. If the meat does not return to its original shape, then the quality of the fish has diminished, affecting its taste and indicating that when it is cooked, it will not be as tender. The blood should be very red, especially in the gills area, and not brown. When you smell it, it is also important that it does not have a foul odor. It should smell like the ocean.

• Thaw the fish in the refrigerator.

If you decide to store it for a day in the freezer, it is important to thaw the fish properly in the ref. This means you should give an allowance for thawing, so that you will not panic and run out of time. Thawing fish by placing it in water or leaving it out at room temperature will make it lose its valuable flavor, and will make it dry. (This is the same principle when handling prime cuts of beef.) Allow two hours of thawing time in the ref per kilo of frozen fish.

• The longer you cook the fish, the drier it gets.

Fish meat is very delicate, and the longer you place it on top of the heat, the tougher it gets. Some people overcook fish to the point that it gets flaky and falls apart, which is wrong. Like steak, start with a high fire; when it is brown on the outside, turn the heat down to low.

If deep-frying, make sure the oil is hot, then lower the fire so the oil will not spatter, then add the fish and raise the fire. Never overcrowd the frying pan with too many pieces of fish because this will make the cooking time longer. The temperature of the oil should be hot because deep-frying at the right temperature will seal the texture, and cooking at too low will make it oily.

Steaming, in my opinion, is the best method of cooking fish. It is healthier because it helps retain the natural flavors. The water should be boiling and kept at a high temperature. Making slits on the side of the fish will prevent it from curling and make cooking faster, which is imperative for cooking fish.

As one prominent painter once said, "Fish be with you!" not only this Lenten season, but for the rest of your life with the tips I’m sharing with you today.

Steamed fish with creamy sauce

1 kilo lapu-lapu (garoupa) or maya-maya (red snapper), whole, cleaned, and scaled

1 teaspoon fine salt

1 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons calamansi juice

1/2 kilo spinach or kangkong leaves

1 cup white onion, sliced

8 Chinese or Japanese mushrooms, washed, soaked in water for 15 minutes, drained, and sliced into 1/4-inch strips

For the white sauce:

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 cups fresh milk

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

For the garnish:

1/2 cup chopped spring onions or capers



Fill a 15-inch wide wok with two-inch deep boiling water. You will also need cover for wok, and one medium-sized stainless steel bowl, to put fish in, when you cook it on top of the boiling water.

Season the fish with salt, pepper and calamansi juice.

For the white sauce:

Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Add the all-purpose flour. Mix with a wire whisk. Add the fresh milk and cook until creamy. Turn off fire, and season with salt and pepper.

To cook the fish:

Put the spinach or kangkong leaves in the bowl. Top with onions, mushrooms slices, and seasoned fish. Put the bowl on top of the boiling water. Cover and cook for 15 minutes. Check the fish with a fork for doneness. With two turners (sianse), transfer fish and vegetables on to a serving platter. Top with the white sauce.

Garnish with 1/2 cup chopped spring onions or capers. (Capers are sold in bottles in supermarkets at the olive section). Serves four to six.

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