Endangered Species: An oasis of good food
February 20, 2002 | 12:00am
It’s a jungle out there. Seek refuge at Endangered Species Café and Bar in Malate, Manila. Relax in its inviting surroundings – comfortable chairs, tables well-spaced from each other and friendly service. The restaurant, now on its third incarnation (first it was Weinstube, then Tonette’s, before it became Endangered), has been an oasis of good food and ambience for almost two decades. And yes, it is still owned and personally managed by Tonette Salcedo.
A night person, Tonette graciously agrees to meet us for lunch and answer a few questions, like why the name Endangered Species?
"I like the name. I love animals – to look at, that is – but I can’t get close to them. I love plants and trees so I made up the place to look like this," begins Tonette. We are chatting in a corner table surrounded by greenery, a stuffed gorilla and a few tarsiers. We find out that this room used to be a garden. The cozy corners near the front of the restaurant used to be a driveway. You’d never think…
Tonette is well-traveled, having worked as model and then a singer ("Sometimes both," she says) in Hong Kong, before finally settling down and becoming a restaurateur in Manila. Everything about the resto – décor, cuisine and intriguing names on the menu – reflects the places she’s been to, her experiences and the person she has become.
And in spite of the dismal tourist arrivals (because of the Abu Sayyaf kidnappings and the worldwide economic recession), the place thrives. It is a favorite among expats and local businessmen, families and couples.
"We’re a favorite restaurant for blind dates (this is where Donna Cruz met her husband) and marriage proposals (this is also where Louie Ocampo proposed – a cappella – to his wife)," Tonette reveals. The romantic occasions would not have been possible without her solicitous staff and Tonette personally overseeing the whole thing.
Tonette, who eats like a man and weighs a mere 98 pounds, has ordered several items on the menu for us to taste and no less than four desserts.
Personally, we think that starters are superfluous. However, the escargot – served with herb butter and mashed potatoes – is a good choice. It’s been on the menu since the restaurant opened, Tonette says. Sashimi Napoleon is another favorite, served in thin sheets of tuna, grouper, salmon, and then layered with bean sprouts and wasabe mayonnaise.
If you’re a salad person, order the Greek Chicken Salad. We did! It’s salad made the way it’s supposed to be – assorted fresh lettuce, feta cheese, black olives, tomatoes, peppers, cucumber, red onion and beets tossed in a special dressing.
House specialties have intriguing names. Japanuki is a char-marinated chicken with spring onions and pepper, served with steamed rice and teriyaki sauce. This is absolutely delish! The Decision is a combination of the resto’s two most popular dishes, the Chilean Seabass and Seared Tenderloin with shallots and garlic. You can’t go wrong with this entrée.
And what would a bar/cafe be like without hamburger? Endangered Gorilla Burger is a giant burger cooked to your liking and served on a jumbo sesame seed bun. It’s juicy, seasoned and yummy.
From the grill, Tonette suggests we choose from the Norwegian salmon or the Chilean seabass. We go for the salmon and have no regrets. Far from it, the salmon, which is grilled and then popped in the oven, is so tender you could eat it with a spoon.
The list of pasta dishes sounds so delicious, it’s hard to choose: Arrabiata (spicy tomato, bacon, capers and olives), Marinara (seafood tidbits in garlic, olive oil and herb tomato sauce), or Bolognese (real beef). If you must choose just one, pick one with an interesting story: Pasta a la Loco. Tonette narrates, "One regular diner wanted something different, so the chef combined different sauces and came up with this meaty pasta. It was so good, it became regular in the menu," she says.
Desserts end the meal on a high note. Unlike the items on the menu, which were created by various chefs, the dessert menu is Tonette’s own. Do not leave the jungle without trying the Crunchy Vanilla! This is meringue with almonds and nougat. Or the Nutty Cappuccino, which is chocolate mousse with nuts, topped with frothy cream and coffee sprinkles. Then there’s Mocha Mystique, which is mocha ice cream, chocolate sauce and almonds. Tipsy Berries and Cream is no ordinary sundae. Blueberries are marinated in Fundador brandy, and then served with strawberry and vanilla ice cream. A great nightcap!
The mix of delicious food, warm service and homey atmosphere makes Endangered Species a great place to rediscover.
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