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Whew, can you feel the heat? | Philstar.com
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Fashion and Beauty

Whew, can you feel the heat?

GO-SEE - GO-SEE By Joyce Oreña -
Are you starting to feel the heat? Summer is here. Not only is the heat here because of summer but it is also on me! "You have forgotten everything because you’re in love," said STAR Lifestyle editor Millet Mananquil over a year ago during a Swatch charity event at People’s Palace at Greenbelt 3. I cannot believe it has been that long since I last wrote. To those of you who have consistently asked me to write again and, of course, to my editor who has never given up and has still allowed me countless chances to write again, thank you! Clichéd as it may sound, you can never keep a good man down! So much has happened since I last wrote. I was so disillusioned by so many things. People whom I trusted turned out to be my worst enemies. But I am a true believer in honesty, and living a decent and clean life. But this doesn’t mean living an average life. I am ambitious. I like to enjoy the good things in life. After all, we only live once. For those who have tried in vain to ruin my reputation and destroy my being, eat your hearts out. The truth will always reveal itself. I am still here, living my dream and living my life to its fullest!

Enough heat on me. Let’s go back to summer. Like the season, the collections are also hot! Fashion imitates life and its contradictions. Fashion this season is exciting yet relaxed and low-key; futuristic yet romantic; innocent yet bold. Confusing? It seems to be getting more and more apparent that yin and yang is here to stay. Be it the mix of rough and fine, matte and shiny, bold and simple, volume and slim, bright and neutral, feminine and masculine, hard-edged and romantic and long and short. Fashion these days is about the mix and how to put it all together. This will define whether your look is current or outdated. The great thing about these contradictions is that there is something for everyone. Here are a few updates to create of-the-moment looks. But remember, stick to the ones that suit you. Know your body and embrace the ones that flatter you best.

1. Cyber chic —
Although this trend is no longer new, it still had a strong presence this season. Paco Rabanne and André Courrèges took the Sixties into the space age; the same goes for Thierry Mugler in the Eighties and Jean Paul Gaultier in the Nineties. "Even the term ‘futurism’ feels retro to me. I feel that the ‘futurism’ seen this season is mostly the same as designers have shown in the past; but there is a new angle, and that is the way different material are being put together," said Hussein Chalayan in the article "Cyber Couture," March 2007 issue of British Vogue. Foils, plastics, nylons, silicone and even metal from silver to gold tailored into space-age garb look into the future, in effect. Leading the pack is Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga with shiny-black long jackets to lean metallic trousers, plastic leggings, slim-fitting, high-collared shirts, dresses crafted entirely from copper wire or patched with patent leather and chain-heeled platforms. To further emphasize the trend, Alber Elbaz veered away from his comfort zone and showed linear cuts, modern takes on Greek draping, leather or metallic drainpipe trousers, shifts with zipper details and trenches in acid yellow, pink or khaki for Lanvin. Karl Lagerfeld worked the trend using high-tech materials from black silicone, laser-cut silver leather and holographic paillettes with traditionally crafted designs. While at Versace, shiny full-metal dresses took a step toward the future. Then, John Galliano’s Mod women dressed in steel-gray jackets with reinforced elbows and other designs with hand-painted gold chain-mail details.

2. Metallic flash —
Metallic from high gloss to matte made the season glow. Metals in liquid gold, bronze, polished silver, aluminum and pewter shone at Burberry Prorsum, Blumarine, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Chloé, Lanvin, Prada, Chanel, Versace, Balenciaga, Chanel and Alberta Ferretti. But the glitziest of them all was copper. The copper tone made its brilliance shine in metal from chains to jewelry, dresses, leather in heels, bags, cuffs and jackets and an assortment of fabrics.

3. Rise to the occasion —
Summer’s jackets and hems turned out cropped. Minis, hot pants, wide, tailored cuffed shorts highlighted the season’s bronzed legs. Short hems took center stage from Pucci’s Sixties takes to Burberry Prorsum’s mini tunic dress and Miu Miu’s svelte shape in knits. A majority of the collections embraced this trend from Valentino to Prada, Fendi, Gucci, Proenza Schouler, Chloé, Jil Sander, Lanvin, Balenciaga, Zac Posen, Louis Vuitton, Bottega Veneta, Etro, Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier, Roberto Cavalli, Missoni, Chanel and Versace. The secret to the short hems is creating a balance. For grownups, team a tunic top or jacket with wide shorts tailored with deep cuffs or wear minis with gentle ruffles at the bottom. Pair tight bottoms with blouson tops. Pea coats, mini tailored jackets and buttoned-up shirts give a more serious look. Wear delicate cuts and fabrics for a feminine and romantic take. For a more relaxed and casual feel, A-line minis work best with slouchy cropped jackets, while elegant cuts are perfect for those hot summer nights. Then, long coats worn over minis give a business command. Match them with ankle-length or just-below-the-knee boots, solid rounded toes or wedges. The quickest way to achieve the current look is to pair them with chunky heels.

4. Modern romance —
In contrast to the season’s cyber chic, modern romance still made its mark. New silhouettes are loosely fitting with an emphasis on fluidity and movement. Crisp whites get ready for summer in voluminous cuts, poufs of silk, ruffled organza and tulle turned up at Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Chloé and Alexander McQueen. McQueen layered tulle on gowns and suits; Karl Lagerfeld wrapped a heel in it. Meanwhile, Marc Jacobs has brought back Liberty of London fabrics through his collection at Louis Vuitton. The cotton floral prints appeared in poufy dresses, headbands and covered beads on accessories, while delicate dresses, lace, bows, frills and drapes ruled Valentino’s runway.

5. Get sporty —
Separates in athletic fabrics played a big role this season. Another fashion yin and yang — joining sportswear and couture. The key is in the proportion mix and fabric play — pair matte with shiny or team an oversized parka with a body-hugging dress or skirt. Fendi, Hogan, Versace, Jil Sander, Givenchy, Balenciaga, Belstaff, Prada, Dries Van Noten, Preen, Lanvin and Jean Paul Gaultier sported the trend. It’s all about having fun.

6. Go graphic —
Mix and match bold prints and blocks of dynamic primary colors. Take reference from Etro, Missoni, Christian Lacroix, Dries Van Noten, Kenzo, Fendi, Pucci, Vivienne Westwood and Gucci.

7. Bright summer —
Cobalt to ocean blue, acid yellow, turquoise, neon green and hot pink are a few bright colors to look forward to this summer. Take a peek at Valentino, Lanvin, Hermès, Roberto Cavalli, Jil Sander, Balenciaga, Chanel, Chloé, Zac Posen, Missoni and Versace for reference.

8. Neutral palette —
Look fresh in the season’s neutral palette from sand and stone to muted gray and blush hues. Easy and understated elegance is key from T-shaped shifts to Sixties-inspired tunics, asymmetric necklines and billowing dresses at Valentino, Karl Lagerfeld, Bottega Veneta, Lanvin, Burberry Prorsum, Versace and Prada. The muted palette allows high-impact add-ons from dramatic bows, ruffles, monochromatic embellishments and other daring details to bold accessories from chunky bangles to heavy tribal-inspired neckpieces, whopping cocktail rings and gigantic hoop earrings.

9. Menswear —
To counter the ultra-feminine vibe, the masculine mood was also the rage. Pantsuits paired with bows, ruffled blouses in complementary hues or in metallics counter the men’s side. Again, the yin and yang of fashion comes into play. Zac Posen, Balenciaga, Jean Paul Gaultier, Viktor & Rolf, Christian Lacroix, Roberto Cavalli and Chanel. Wearable slouchy styles, low-slung men’s pants, softly sculptured shapes strutted at Bottega Veneta. Meanwhile, Cavalli’s girls donned toreador jackets, relaxed pants, cut full-length or cropped at mid-calf. Take your pick from slouchy to tailored, wide-legged to skinny and cropped to full length.

10. Couture blues —
More fashion contradictions. The laborer’s fabric gets a high-fashion slash. Looks are tailored and elegant yet edgy at Chanel, Proenza Schouler and Dolce & Gabbana.

11. Fringe benefit —
Take a good look at Prada, Gucci and Roberto Cavalli. Fringe and tassels trimmed shirtdresses, hems, skirts, vests, swimsuits, and accessories from sandals to boots and bags.

12. Yin & yang —
The ultimate yin and yang is black and white. Fresh classics defined in contrasting colors made a strong showing at Givenchy, Balenciaga, Chanel, Fendi, Burberry Prorsum, Viktor & Rolf and Proenza Schouler.

Express your individuality. Fashion’s paradox provides a diversity of options. Reference key pieces rather than an entire look to make it practical and wearable. The key is in the mix. Remember not to take yourself too seriously. Have fun! I cannot stress enough that life is too short. Live it the way you want it!
* * *
Look forward to next week’s trend alert on accessories. Send queries and suggestions to jo@joyceorena.com.

BALENCIAGA

BOTTEGA VENETA

BURBERRY PRORSUM

CHANEL

FENDI

LANVIN

VALENTINO

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