A day in the Tod’s shoes of Diego Della Valle

Any fashionista knows Tod’s. Even the paparazzi catch celebrities wearing their favorite styles. Who doesn’t know this famed Italian label? It has come a long way from its humble beginnings as maker of driving shoes with round rubber studs.

The label’s owner, Diego Della Valle, has built an empire focused mainly on accessories. "Accessory is the center of our style, our lives. The main target is what I call ‘usability,’ beautiful items beyond the season, with a concrete usefulness of the products," he said in an interview in Vogue Pelle.

Most have mistaken Tod’s for being a British or American brand. Would you believe that Della Valle picked J.P. Tod’s out of a Boston phone book? The company wanted a name that could be pronounced in the most number of languages without getting it wrong. It has since dropped J.P. and is now known simply as Tod’s. It is one of the few remaining luxury brands that are made entirely in Italy. Recently, more and more brands have moved manufacturing to Eastern Europe and China to save on costs. Unlike many brands, Tod’s has remained loyal to its philosophy – to pursue refined luxury, impeccable taste and excellent quality. The tradition of hand-craftsmanship is the foundation of the company. Della Valle learned this skill from his father’s factory floor while his grandfather worked as a cobbler at home. In fact, many of the employees of the company are the sons and daughters of the people who worked for Dorino, Diego’s father. This is how the shoemaking tradition is kept alive and strong.

Aside from being the fave of fashionistas and celebrities, Tod’s takes pride in upholding the maximum level of quality for each and every product that goes to the consumer. I can attest to that. I had the privilege of visiting the Tod’s headquarters in Italy. Did you know that there are over 100 steps to make a Tod’s shoe? Depending on the style, there can be up to 35 pieces of leather, and each piece needs to be individually treated and checked before being assembled to create the shoe. This entire process is still done by hand. Each step involves an artisan who is specifically qualified for each individual task.

Della Valle was not at the new headquarters of Tod’s in Casette d’Ete, Italy, when I went for a visit. This meant he was probably shuttling around the world to take care of his other businesses. He was set to arrive the next day to personally take a look at the next season’s collections. Despite the rapid growth of his business, he continues to stay on top of everything. He continues to be hands-on even with creating each season’s collections.

The recently built Tod’s headquarters is an ultra-modern 40,000 square-meter building made of white alabaster Italian marble. Its main purpose is business but it also houses an auditorium for international lectures, a kindergarten for the employees’ children, a gym, a restaurant with international cuisine and a replica of the company’s boutiques, to give the employees a better understanding of the world of Tod’s. It was so impressive. After seeing it, I wanted to work there. The headquarters is a marriage of function and aesthetics. He surrounded the building with green, from bamboo to olive trees — a perfect backdrop to the white structure. Then he filled it with beautiful artworks from his private collection.

"This is a rare working environment, especially in Italy. I wanted to give back to my employees a truly unique work environment, a dream behind the product. If we make the best product in the world, we need to give back to our employees what we put in our shoes. Then the quality and care to make our products increases," says Della Valle.

It all starts with the best leather. A huge warehouse is dedicated solely to their leather stock. Only the finest leather from the best tanneries all over the world is allowed here. Experts check each hide for imperfections. They control the color, thickness and texture. Only the pieces that meet their standards are kept here. I saw the process and it is tedious. Each hide is inspected, stretched and calibrated. The company’s founding tradition of hand-craftsmanship is never sacrificed but further enhanced with the use of the newest modern technology to analyze each aspect of the shoe, from design to fit.

Tod’s is synonymous with refined luxury, impeccable taste and excellent quality. Since last season, Tod’s has added a range of products from leather jackets to other accessories, including gloves, hats, scarves, bracelets and even desk accessories. This summer watch out for ethno chic and feminine tendencies. Wooden details and zebra-patterned pony skin designs create the trend. Flats are definitely back with the new Degas ballerina in soft leather and supple sole. Go for tones of paprika, lime, sunflower, orange, coral, aqua, mint, nude, ginger, white and metallic hues to look current. There is a piece for every wardrobe style.

Remember to buy good quality. Buy more style instead of fashion. And the next time you purchase a Tod’s accessory, you know it’s well worth every cent. So what are you waiting for? Go shop!

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Send queries and suggestions to jo@joyceorena.com.