Feast of flavors

That night at the Makati Shangri-La’s Red saw the pairing of Veuve Clicquot vintage champagnes and chef de cuisine William Tan’s special menu.

Four different vintages were served throughout the dinner. To whet the appetite, first served was Veuve Clicquot Blanc Vintage 2002. In the mouth, Vintage 2002 was silky, complex and generous with fruity and floral taste underlined by a hint of minerals and spices, with a touch of menthol and toast. This went perfectly with the starters of yellow miso-cured scallop guacamole carpaccio, granny smith gel, pecorino, sea urchin cream, imperial caviar and wild Tasmanian salmon mi-cuit at 47 degrees, golden trout roe, pineapple marmalade, tomato velvet, micro tomato and lemon thyme cloud.

After a serving of champagne and grated strawberry to cleanse the palate, the main course was served: slow roasted cured boneless rack of Dutch veal and six-hour braised double headed abalone, dried scallop floss, braised spring leek, sofritto, raspberry infused veal jus. It was paired with Veuve Clicquot Rich 2002, which had a brilliant aspect and its effervescence was lively and long lasting with balsamic notes of menthol and liquorices, together with hints of citrus fruits coming to the fore.

Served after was the Veuve Clicquot Roses Vintage 2002, which revealed intense aromas of red and black fruits enhanced with a touch of pepper and vanilla. Both the white and rosé versions of the 2002 vintage are distinguished by an aromatic complexity that continues to intensify over time. Either of the versions could well be matched with a delicately spiced marinade of beef. The structure and freshness of this champagne give it an ageing potential of at least 20 years.

Dessert was a light chocolate coated strawberry pudding citrus bonbon, apple cube paired with Veuve Clicquot Roses Vintage 2004. Of light effervescence, the Vintage Rosé 2004 revealed flavors of ripe red fruits that burst in the mouth, before gradually giving way to violet lilac notes. A discreet touch of ground coffee could also be distinguished.

Bea Tantoco gave her soulful renditions of a range of songs as guests sipped their vintage bubbly. Serving yellow (or rose) bubbly at Red is always a treat. Can’t wait for the next wine pairing by Moët-Hennessy Philippines.

Happy birthday, Mons!

The Establishment’s Anton San Diego threw an intimate birthday party for his very good friend and Star columnist Mons Romulo. It was a night of friendship and fun speeches given by friends of Mons.  

The food served during the night was prepared by chef Hylton Le Roux, The Establishment’s guest chef until July 16 at the Crystal Room. Hylton, a South African, worked at The Savoy Grill at the Savoy Hotel in London under Gordon Ramsay as chef de partie. He also worked at Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck in Bray (my favorite restaurant in the whole world!) as chef de partie. During Hylton’s time there, The Fat Duck was voted the world’s best restaurant and won its third Michelin star. 

Served during the dinner at Mons’ party were goat cheese with truffle mousse with tomato jam and aged balsamic for appetizer, a choice of roast chicken breast with wild mushroom and parmesan risotto or beef tenderloin with onion jam for the main course and some desserts. Since some guests were non-carnivores, Hylton also prepared a whole salmon, which was also “attacked” by carnivores like me. Hylton now has established Pi Catering (more on that in this column in the future when I write about my first dinner with Hylton).

The birthday girl looked amazing and young as she was visibly happy spending her special day with her good friends. It was a night of great company and great food.

Happy birthday, Mons! We wish you all the best.

 (For inquiries and reservations for The Crystal Room at The Establishment, please call 844-6364, 844-9093 or 0927-635810.)