How a cook evolves in the kitchen

(Part III of a series on Cooking Schools)

Michel Richard, voted the “best chef of America” by the James Beard Foundation and chef owner of Citrus, one of the top 25 restaurants of America, advises young cooks, “If it does take 10 or 15 years for you to learn this profession don’t think you’re stupid. You need time and dedication. Be patient. Don’t take the elevator — take the stairs.” Marie-Antoine Careme (1783-1833), known as “chef of kings and king of chefs” and originator of “grande cuisine” would write in his journal without fail before going to sleep all he had learned and done during the day in the kitchen. So with Auguste Escoffier who said, “One way in which I save fresh ideas is by a notebook where I paste cuttings from the papers, circumstances that impress me as suggestive of new recipe or fresh way of presenting a dish - always a happy thought.”

Running a kitchen

Just to get in to work with a skilled chef in a well known restaurant, one may have to work as a dishwasher. The position of a dishwasher in a professional restaurant is invaluable and is treated with much respect, for not only does he wash dishes, but pots, pans and cooking utensils, clean floors and organize storerooms. He is the only one who is free to help at the other stations. Eventually he may do light prep work. The ‘prep cooks are the backbone of a restaurant. Labor-intensive small tasks like chopping vegetables, peeling garlic, cleaning salad greens, etc. save the more experienced cooks’ valuable time. They may sometimes butcher less expensive cuts of meat or strain stocks.

The “garde manger” is considered starting position in the kitchen. His station is often responsible for hot and cold appetizers like salads and desserts. His job is not as technical, although he is valuable for the plates that come from this station, and is responsible for a customer’s all important first and last impressions of a meal. This is evident even in the first or business class flights of airlines like KLM or Singapore Airlines.

The “hot line” cooks produce the entrees at two or more stations (saute’ cook, grill cook, vegetable cook and “rounds cook”. The latter fills in for each of the other stations on its cook day’s off). The “hot line” requires a cook to have experience with the delicate cooking temperature of meat and fish. They work with the most expensive ingredients. They are expected to make their own sauces and create the daily specials.

The “sous chef” assists the chef in running the kitchen. In cases where the chef is also the owner he holds the primary responsibility for managing the kitchen while the chef manages the restaurant as a whole. He/she works with the most expensive ingredients and may portion meat or fish. The sous chef often orders food and supplies, trains the staff, inspects work and may also expedite — that is, taste the food and to see that it all goes out perfectly as the chefs envisioned. They are responsible for the pacing of the food to the table, making sure the hot dish takes only five to 10 minutes to get to the customer’s table. He keeps the longest hours of any cooks in the kitchen.

The “chef” is responsible for hiring, firing, overseeing cooking and cleaning, and managing all aspects of the daily operation of the kitchen. He makes the call to bring in a repair person to fix the broken refrigerator or clogged drain. (At our college restaurant, the school plumber regularly cleans the P-Trap, while the school electrician and carpenter makes himself available for any repair.) He writes the menus. He sets the tone of the kitchen. He also cooks. Press stories and accolades mention him.

The unique principles and practise of Istituto Culinario

The Istituto Culinario was first established as the O.B. Montessori Culinary College way back in 1995 offering both a two-year diploma course as well as a four-year degree course. It attracted a bigger enrollment than the Montessori Early Childhood Education BS degree course. They had to master first the unique Montessori subjects of the “Prepared Environment” and “Engineering of Movement.” Basic fundamentals of culinary techniques are mastered believing that “work is considered a recipe” — complete set of ingredients and tools, followed by an “analysis of movement” or step by step procedure to develop the product. It is concluded by “packing up” and returning every apparate in their proper place. The work can only be effective with a Prepared Environment in the large classrooms and kitchen in the sixth and seventh floor of the four-building complex of OBMC at the corner of Eisenhower and Annapolis streets, Greenhills. Their practicum hours extended to Ristorante La Dolce Fontana, on the ground floor fronting the Greenhills shopping area. Everything is clean, functional, complete, pleasant looking and orderly. This includes the personal grooming and hygiene of the students.

Joining local and international culinary competitions

Confident about their skill they participated in almost all the yearly culinary competitions. In 1996 Neilmann Daquis and Ricardo Alejandro won silver in the 1996 TESDA Olympics for cookery and waitering. Daquis eventually became sous chef of several Kamayan branches and Alejandro is production coordinator of the airline Miascor Catering. By 1997 “Chefs on Parade” silver award for table setting went to Carlo Santiago who also received gold with Mark Jethro at the TESDA Olympics ’97. Carlo is now the Executive Chef of Bayleaf Hotel at the NAIA Catering City Pasay. In 1998 Miguel Palma, Neil Manuel received Silver for “On the Spot Cake Decoration.” Mig migrated to Australia and continued to graduate course in management. He is now the manager of Holiday Inn, Melbourne.

Christian Carpio who was the Executive Chef of Boracay Discovery Suites but now owns Tio Resto Bar and Lounge in Rizal Ave., Puerto Princesa was a constant winner as a student. With Lorenzo Guerrero who also owns his culinary business, he was finalist of the ‘continental market basket’ at the ’98 Chefs on Parade. Philip M. Gaudinez who is Chef de Partie at Manila Peninsula won Gold in the 1999 youth category at the TESDA Skills Olympic.

By 2000 both Mig Palma and Bertrand Escano championed waitering at the Culinary Grand Prix. In the same year Antonio Ben Libarnes won Silver for Catering. He is the Executive Chef of St. Luke’s Bonifacio Global City.

Between 2001 to 2005 Eigenman and Benedicto won Gold for the ‘Chefs on the Spot.’ Jordan Nino Lee made first place at the Filipino Creative Seafood. We won the Gold at TESDA Pamarisan 2003 Cookery Open and Sheryl Ngo was champion at Culinary Grand Prix. Ilene Manchera won the Silver for Restaurant Service TESDA Skills at the World Trade Center.