Balut from Pateros

Where did the name Pateros come from? It may have come from being the land of pato (duck) or sapatero for being shoe and slipper makers. Atto Bade, our tour guide cum artist and museum curator, told us both accounts are said to be true. Pateros, the area, was known as a place for shoe and slipper making. The alfombra, slippers made from carpet material, is another iconic symbol of Pateros. I saw these footwear being used by my aunt decades ago and for the first time saw its provenance. I just knew it was called corcho. We saw these Pateros icons on display at the Museo de Pateros, a modest three-story tribute to this tiny town just four kilometers from Makati’s center.

The easiest clue to Pateros’ fame is the balut, a fertilized duck egg with a developing embryo that is boiled and eaten right from the shell. Yes, it is an item for extreme cuisine or exotic food, which is a challenge given to tourists unfamiliar with this delicacy. Some Filipinos do not care to eat it while those who do have their minute preferences: 18 days or younger. More than 18 days will give you a different texture and more features some do not agree with. The cut off is 18 days. If you get the chance to try this egg, check out the various options. Balut sa puti (younger and more white than yolk and small bird), penoy (undeveloped embryo and is all yolk) and abnoy, better taken in a rice cake or bibingka-like baked product.

Telling one from the other while still fresh or not yet boiled is a skill that is learned only in Pateros. In the days when electric incubators were not yet in fashion, thousands of eggs were “seen” manually by experts who could even put as many as five eggs in their hand at a time. With a proper twist and turn  in front of a light box, they could separate the balut from the penoy – which had an embryo growing, which had none. Maninilaw is the term used to identify these expert light show selectors. The process is captured at the museum with displays of the panyo or net bag used for a bundle of eggs. I guess they were paid by the volume each panyo held. I would say one bundle could contain about 30 eggs or what would now go into a square egg tray which we commonly use in transport of these delicate products.

Another product from duck eggs without embryos is the salted egg or sometimes called itlog na pula or itlog na maalat. These red-colored (painted with food coloring which we hope is food safe) eggs are preserved in salt and is a popular accompaniment to tomato and other local salads. Today, Pateros duck farms have decreased in number but what they have kept alive is the traditional process of salting, boiling and baking (the abnoy). Even if duck eggs come from farther south of Luzon, this process is still done in Pateros. The duck farms in Pateros have given way to urbanization, but the tradition of balut making has stayed.

We paid a courtesy call to the young mayor, Mayor Gerald German, who told us of their efforts to promote local tourism through street food fairs. Our very own Department of Tourism in the National Capital Region (DOT-NCR) headed by regional director Cathie Agustin accompanied us (from Slow Food Manila) to discuss  possible tourist products like food crawls and food discovery events. Pateros is so accessible from our airports and can be a day trip for tourists in transit for a few hours. Just like in Singapore or Dubai, if you have a layover of 12 hours, a local tour is offered and shuttles from the airport can be available. All you bring is your carry on bag and a curious appetite.

For those of us who can drive, you can head to the Museo de Pateros and traverse the cross streets, each with its own balutan or balut producer and seller. Right in front of the museum, sellers of their famous products, balut and slippers (alfombra), are given two weeks each to sell their wares with no rent at all. Small producers take turns occupying the prime space, giving many  the chance to sell at this prime retail spot.

I saw the many stages of balut – raw, boiled, salted egg, penoy and the unique bibingka abnoy at this stall. On the opposite side of the entrance, displayed were many designs and styles of the alfombra selling for less than P500, depending on how intricate or simple the footwear is. Apparently the entrada or instep portion is made by embroiderers elsewhere and just assembled in Pateros. These prized footwear are also standard for those who attend cockfights (sabungeros) and were today’s sneakers.

Along with DOT-NCR we at Slow Food Manila are going around the towns close to the metro to discover possible local tours in support of our new secretary of the Dept. of Tourism (DOT)’s mandate to promote domestic tourism. Truly, just a stone’s throw away from the Makati business district is this gem of a destination. Pateros is an interesting place to learn more about our history, and the history of its shoe and duck egg industries.

For an interesting morning or a layover idea for transit tourists, Pateros can be your destination. Even if you do not eat the exotic boiled duck egg, you may find interest in the collection curated by Atto Bade at the Museo de Pateros. You may even find photos of people you know, who originally hailed from this town. I saw the photo of Cora dela Paz Bernardo, formerly SSS president and a most sought after independent board director, along with the famous lawyer, Rene “Compañero” Cayetano as just two of the more famous Pateros natives.

Do you know the difference between an 16-day and an 18-day old balut? Come to Pateros and find out. I personally like it 16 days one. So next time you are served balut, do ask its age and be an expert – or at least act like one.