Engaging a province, a community at a time

Two years ago, I was invited by Chef Gel Salonga-Datu and the late Chef Day Salonga to their annual festival called Sa Pantalan ng Katagalugan in Sta. Cruz, Laguna, about two hours’ drive from Makati. I was wondering why they would name it “pantalan” which means dock in English. What I found was a bazaar-like warehouse with food from different places in Laguna, and artisans showing crafts like weaving of grass baskets (the ubiquitous pandan gift baskets), wood crafts called “kaskas” and many more craftsmen of yore showing different specialties of Laguna towns like Liliw, Pakil and more. The guests were also treated to a spread of Laguna recipes for lunch. That was September 2023.

Fast forward to today, Chef Gel tells me that they called it “pantalan” because Santa Cruz was really the trade center of Laguna during the colonial times and even during the pre-Hispanic era. The siblings, Gel and Day, thought of recreating the traditional trade and culture centered around Laguna Lake. And the place was buzzing with trade as they invited guests from Manila who probably only know of the iconic kesong puti of Laguna and Liliw slippers. At their event, you are transported to different towns around the famous lake called Laguna de Bay.

Apparently the “pantalan” started way back in 2012, a germ of an idea that Chef Day had, which was ably supported by Chef Gel and her husband Dino Datu. It took a while for other artisans to join, as they could not believe the siblings would not charge for the space at the trade fair. But slowly, the idea gained ground and now other towns have taken notice and are now willing to join this annual event. Throughout the year, Gel and family would travel to other Laguna lake towns, getting to know artisans, home cooks and community members willing to showcase their town’s pride – be it food or a craft (that may soon die if not promoted).

Slowly but surely, Gel and Day got more towns in the province to participate, skilled craftsmen and women showing their best products and home cooks who brought out recipes learned from their forefathers. And this is how the idea of Slow Food also fit right in. I suggested to Gel to form a Slow Food community as these food and ingredients definitely had a place in the Ark of Taste (www.fondazioneslowfood.com) – I saw sampinit (a foraged berry), lipote (a local berry), different kinds of coconut products like jam, candies, bread and more. Today, Chef Gel, a renowned pastry chef, uses these seasonal ingredients in her cakes, to the delight of her regular customers. It also teaches the diners about seasonality because sampinit, for example, is not available all year round. It also is not grown in plots, but foraged in Mount Cristobal’s forests. The white cheese or fresh kesong puti is from carabao’s milk and is now made into ice cream by the original artisans who still make the cheese fresh every day. We saw the tedious process of making this cheese and will not complain about its price – ever.

Since coconuts are plentiful in Laguna, many dishes are made with coconut milk, smoked coconut meat and other variations of using the fruit of the “tree of life” – the coconut. Because Laguna is also known for the University of the Philippines-Los Baños (UPLB), many dairy products are also sold as inspired by UPLB’s Dairy and Training and Research Institute, whose graduates probably now also make their own.

Gel and husband Dino recently guested in my podcast “Good and Green” and we laughed together when I asked them how they got people to join their festival and the Slow Food community. Dino says people will not trust right away. Many doubted that a family could give a space for free, just because. Almost everyone had their doubts and some even thought Gel would be running for public office, and this is why she had the Pantalan event. I ribbed her that maybe she can run for governor as she is covering all the towns in Laguna. To which both of them laughed, as the idea never crossed their minds. I can believe that people thought they must be crazy to travel to every town and offer everyone a space for their products, for free. And this is not even the government. Soon after, even the local government came to support the efforts of Gel, Dino and Day.

Laguna is lucky to have this family who sincerely just wants to put the spotlight on the province. Yes, Ted’s in Santa Maria is the gateway to the other towns around the lake but mounting an event to benefit everyone else is truly a noble act.

Laguna has six cities and 24 municipalities. You can get to Santa Cruz via SLEX but the other towns can also be accessed via the Rizal towns like Pililia, taking the other route. That is a huge area to cover but Gel and Dino will carry on, and hopefully cover all 30 places and have an even bigger Pantalan in the years to come.

In memory of Chef Day Salonga, we salute Gel and Dino for carrying on the mission to give Laguna heritage and culture the homage it deserves.

Slowly, the Slow Food community of Laguna is gathering more home cooks, artisans and advocates towards creating more awareness for the lesser known towns of this big province surrounding the biggest lake in the Philippines, Laguna de Bay. If you are from Laguna, reach out to Chef Gel and Dino Datu and help preserve the culture through food and travel.

I recently found coffee in Sta Maria, Laguna, a quiet town tucked away in the hilly elevations passing through Mabitac, a coffee and forest area. You, too, can discover other Laguna towns like my friends Lito and Peewee Villanueva found Cavinti during COVID times and now harvest vegetables in their family farm.

Salute to women like Gel Salonga this women’s month. Catch our podcast soon!