The island paradise

It was my first time in Siargao, the island paradise and surfer’s capital of the Philippines. We boarded a PAL turboprop and landed at Sayak Airport about an hour and a half later. A van was waiting for us and, after a scenic 45-minute ride, we arrived at Villa Cali.

What struck me immediately was how happy and healthy everyone looked. Perhaps it’s all the surfing – or maybe it’s simply the way island life flows here. The environment is visibly sustainable, with lush forests, thriving mangrove swamps and vibrant coral reefs dotting the seascape. Siargao is alive and flourishing.

The weather was perfect: sunny mornings, followed by refreshing afternoon showers. The population is a mix of friendly locals and mostly young, bohemian foreign tourists chasing the next great wave. Hospitality runs deep here, and the cost of living is refreshingly low, comparable to Bali.

The heart of activity is General Luna, a lively street lined with restaurants, bars and beach spots. I tried to surf – and I did catch a wave – but didn’t stand long due to an old basketball injury that still weakens my knee. Still, I swam every day, soaked in the sun and felt revitalized.

This story isn’t just about a trip – it’s about how sustainability has made this island flourish. There are no high-rise buildings, yet the roads are paved and everyone gets around easily on scooters or tuktuks. A ride costs just P30. A decent meal? P200. Not bad for a surfer’s paradise.

Today, as I write this, I’ll be dining Spanish-style at Las Barricas, one of many culinary gems on the island. Siargao offers everything from vegan cafés to wood-fired pizza to fresh seafood, all with laid-back island charm.

As I head out to hail a tuktuk, I see joggers gliding by and surfers slicing through waves. There are no smoke-belching vehicles here. You can breathe the salt air – so different from the foul air of Manila or other crowded cities.

Siargao is a lesson on how communities can thrive with nature, not against it. Its people are free-flowing and deeply healthy – a rare and precious combination in today’s world.

*      *      *

Antonio Claparols is president of the Ecological Society of the Philippines.