Pamana: A restaurant with a family history

Eating at Pamana is like eating at home. The ambience is easy and relaxed, very homey, with mismatched furniture (old wooden bench and chairs as if picked from antique shops) you find in your own dining room. The staff (led by the gracious Ana Lascano) serves you with a smile and casual familiarity. And the food is lutong-bahay.

Located at 1315 Aguinaldo Highway Crossing in Silang East, Tagaytay City, Pamana is part of a chain of restaurants owned and managed (often by remote control) by Happy Ongpauco who is based in Manila with her family. Happy is the daughter of retired actors Liberty Ilagan (one of Sampaguita Pictures’ glamour girls) and Rod Ongpauco whose family, besides owning Hollywood Far East Productions (for which he starred in several movies), holds the distinction of being behind the famous Barrio Fiesta (there’s still one along Makati Avenue, Makati City, managed by Liberty).

Top: Pictures of the Ongpauco Clan and (lower photo) those of the Ilagan Clan light up the walls of Pamana, alongside those of a young Liberty Ilagan (left), Tito Arevalo (above left, the musician of the clan), and Fely Vallejo and Gerry de Leon (above, right), Liberty’s parents and Happy’s grandparents.

You find the reasons why the place is called Pamana on the walls of the two-storey restaurant: On one wall are pictures of the Ongpauco Clan dominated by a full-body shot of the matriarch Chit Ongpauco (“A beauty and a chef in her own right,” showbiz whiz Raoul Tidalgo reminded me) and on another wall are those of the Ilagan Clan with the iconic picture of Gerry de Leon with his signature pipe at the center. The wall beside the stairs leading to the second floor is plastered with pictures of Liberty and her colleagues of yore, veritable collectors’ items.

Liberty Ilagan (left) and Chit Ongpauco grace the covers of the menu which includes Tofu Ala ‘Tito, Vic and Joey’ (P250 per order), described as ‘Tita Helen Gamboa’s recipe: Crispy tofu sautéed in kimchay, ground beef and baby shrimps.’ Below: Dirty Ice Cream in various chocolate flavors invented by Pamana owner Happy Ongpauco.

For a breathtaking view of Taal Lake, choose a table at the rear side of the resto. It’s good not only for the soul but for digestion, especially if you pig out on the, well, “avalanche” of food that our group ordered when we were there during the long weekend last month: Nilagang Bulalo, Sinigang Na Buto-Buto Pinalapot sa Gabi, Dinengdeng (the best I’ve ever tasted!), Bangus ala Pobre, Chix Inasal and Crispy Pata, with Lumpiang Prito and Crispy Tawilis as appetizers, and Quezo Trio and Crispy Turon as desserts. Ana Lascano suggested that we try the Dirty Ice Cream (with various chocolate flavors) invented by Happy and we did. I chose the Chocnut-flavored.

Here’s what you will find on another wall, titled Pamana: My Source of Inspiration, written by Happy:

My hubby, my eating mentor…the love of my life.

My sons, Renzo and Franchesco…my happiness.

My dad, Rod Ongpauco, inventor of the Original Crispy Pata, taught me all that I know in this business…my inspiration.

My mom, Liberty Ilagan, glamorous actress of the ‘60s, my guide, my light.

My Mama Chit, my Lola, grand matriarch of the Barrio Fiesta Clan.

My mother-in-law, Ama Grace, an amazing and passionate cook, my idol.

My Lolo, Gerry de Leon, National Artist in Film, gourmet.

My great grandfather, Don Hermogenes Ylagan, Father of Zarzuela, gourmand.

My favorite Lola Laling Talti, great comedienne of the 1940s, taught me how to cook my first dish.

My sisters, Love and Sunshine, 100% foodies and best sisters.

A dining table on one side of Pamana with a sweeping view of the Taal Lake.

The whole Tiu, Ongpauco and Ilagan Family. The love and support that they have given is enormous. I am so grateful!

My friends who taught me their family secret recipes: Vince Rodriguez, Carina Guevarra, Joan Tigno, Tricie Pengson, Tweet Feliciano, Allana Montelibano, Chef Pauline Batusing, Cila Chua, Trina Biazon and Eunice Roxas.

Tita Vicky Reyes — a special woman who has shared with me her heritage.

Naomi Tamayo, my Angel.

All my loyal staff — they who have guided me and helped me achieve my goal. — THANK YOU

(For inquiries about Pamana, call 046-4132461, 0922-8592707or 0922-8592706. Ask for Ana Lascano.)

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