Boracay: A piece of heaven on earth

I have been a faithful follower of the strictures of my dermatologist Dr. Isabel Nazal. She has taken care of the largest organ in my body, my skin, that is, since I was 19 years old, and she has ever consistently reminded me to shun the sun to keep my skin looking young. Because of her advice, "People say I must be in my 30s. Sa totoo lang, 40s na." (ha ha!) Hence, going to the beach for sun and surf is a big no-no. But this year alone, I have been lured to Boracay thrice (Sorry, Dr. Nazal! Please make Boracay an exception!) and the last trip was the most memorable.

It was the 85th birthday celebration of my well-loved father-in-law Justice Emilio Gancayco. My husband Paul, on whose shoulders fell the responsibility of organizing the reunion, thought it would be a great idea to have family bonding in Boracay. Three of his siblings (pediatrician Tony, Merryl Lynch executive Sonny and pre-school teacher Annie) would be coming from the US with their families. There was strong opposition at first from the all-professional, highly-intelligent and debate-prone children and in-laws. August did not seem to be a good month to visit Boracay as it was the rainy season. It would be boring as there would be nothing to do. It could be dangerous to ride the plane and the boat, and so on. But my husband Paul, the practicing lawyer that he is, persisted; and yes, the excellent practicing lawyer that he is, he prevailed! – to the delight of our young nephews and nieces and their trying-to-be-forever-young Tita Dot (this writer).

We took the early Cebu Pacific flight, which, thank God, left on time, and got to Kalibo, Aklan, safe and sound. We rode three vans, already waiting for us, which brought us to the port. From there, we rode a big boat that brought us to the eastern portion of Boracay as, according to Jun, our coordinator cum tour guide, the Habagat or southwest monsoon wind during this season makes it difficult to dock at the usual site. Thereafter, three mini-vans brought us to the Red Coconut Hotel where my husband billeted all of us. He made the right choice.

The Red Coconut Hotel is perfectly located near the D’ Mall, now one of the main attractions of Boracay Island with all its shops, restos and bars, yet far enough from the madding crowd to have the peace you need during a vacation. The spacious rooms have a good view of the famous white beach. The staff are friendly and welcome you with a delightful drink (ahhh!) – perfect for weary travelers who have just been through the rigors of journeying by air, water and land in quick succession. Friendliest of all is Red Coconut Hotel’s American manager Mike Schnitzius who made a very good impression as he was not only accommodating and very reliable; he also spoke of his deep love for the Philippines which he describes as a very beautiful country with the nicest, most hospitable people. (He has decided to stay here permanently; how I wish every Filipino would appreciate our country like Mike does.) Red Coconut has a restaurant and an impressive swimming pool, and best of all, as my sister-in-law Mian adds (the Ilocano in her speaking), it offers very reasonable rates.

True, Boracay looks different during the rainy season. There are less people and less water activities as the sea is rougher because of the southwest monsoon wind which blows quite strongly so that the structures have to be protected with screens and coverings from the wind-borne fine sand. Yet, my balikbayan sisters-in-law Vicky, Ongie and Annie were in deep awe of the beauty of the white sand beach which they declare, as well-traveled individuals, even more beautiful than the beaches in Hawaii, Thailand, Indonesia, and some beaches in South America that they have seen.

And whoever said there’s nothing to do in Boracay during this season? One never sleeps in Boracay! You can shop till you drop at the pricier but trendier D’ Mall, at the D’ Talipapa where prices are much cheaper and at the small stalls scattered all over the island. Beautiful beach attire and accessories abound at really low prices. Of course, one also has to be an expert in the art of haggling (which Vicky, Ongie and Annie were able to master by the end of our stay). While the others shopped, my brother-in-law, busy mechanical engineer-turned-businessman Efren threw his cares away by indulging in a professional massage from head-to-toe.

There are so many good restaurants to choose from. Thanks to my niece Tootsie, we discovered the best: Real Coffee (for breakfast); Arya (pasta and pizza); Gasthof (for baby back ribs); Jammers (burgers); True Food (Indian food); Café Brieze (French cuisine); Brettone (crepes); Palomaria (with its famous Swedish meatballs, tinapa with capers, and brown rice risotto) and, Jonas (shakes). Not to forget is my husband’s all-time favorite Andok’s with its P49 breakfast!

Of course, we took the exciting boat trip around the island for sightseeing and some snorkeling and a stopover for a great Filipino lunch at the Ilig-iligan island beach where the sea is calm and clear even during the southwest monsoon. Then we had banana boat riding; jet skiing which balikbayan Joseph and Lauren truly enjoyed; and the thrilling parasailing only for the brave like Jao and Jasmine. Before nightfall, we watched the breathtaking sunset (most beautiful during these months) at the Nigi Nigi Nu Noos or the Club Paraw during happy hour. After dinner, we would choose between Cocomangas or Summer Place (which nephews Jig, Jao and Bien truly loved) where one can enjoy drinks and good music while having a henna tattoo as did my sister-in-law Mian and niece Olive.

The most unforgettable part of our stay, of course, was our last night in Boracay where we celebrated daddy’s birthday. After hearing Mass at the Balabag Church, we had a sumptuous dinner prepared by the efficient Red Coconut staff. Drinks flowed and an impromptu program was held where a fire dancer, care of Tootsie and Bem, exhibited her amazing talent and all the children and grandchildren were allowed to give a speech. Emotions ran high as everyone spoke of love for Daddy. It must have been the drinks. It must have been the atmosphere in Boracay. By the time first grandchild Thrina, Olive and my own hubby spoke, we were all mushy with tears in our eyes.

As for me, I thank dear daddy for because of him, the huge and scattered Gancayco clan would not be as close as we are. He is our unifying force, and through him, we have gotten to know each other better. Our children are all trying to emulate him: his kindness, his generosity, unwavering commitment to causes and continuing pursuit of excellence. So, I end by thanking you, daddy, and, borrowing the words of Sonny, "Because of you, we all found a piece of heaven on earth – in Boracay!"

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