Secrets of the Sugar Master

MANILA, Philippines – Ewald Notter is an acclaimed master in the world of confectionery.

A regular member of the Pastry Team USA to the Coupé du Monde de la Patisserie, a prestigious international competition held in France every two years, he is the author of several best-selling books on his expertise, such as the highly regarded Art of the Chocolatier. In addition, he has produced four sought-after videos for the Culinary Institute of America on the pursuit of chocolate and sugar decoration.

Born in Switzerland, he trained with the legendary chef Willy Pfund at the Confiserie Sprüngli in Zurich. As an eager apprentice, he became interested in what he candidly calls “the pulling and blowing of sugar.” This newly discovered hobby soon became his passion and, as a result, he is now the renowned master of this craft.

Comparable to a fine artist, Notter has an eye for color, an appreciation for textures and a keen sense of detail. In the same way artisans handle acrylic, oil, chalk or clay as their medium, he prefers to create his artworks by using a palette of sugar and chocolate.

“I never thought of myself as a master of anything,” Notter says. “It is just a label that they gave me. In fact, whenever I judge a contest and they introduce me as such, I, in all humility, resolve to improve and be better in my profession.”

Although he is the globally acknowledged confectionary exponent, he stresses the importance of being level-headed. “Never be a ‘big head’,” he emphasizes. “When you win in a tournament, try to mingle with the other contestants, and don’t think that you are better than them. Remember, as far as the judges are concerned, all participants are good, but they just have to choose one winner.”

“In the same way, when you lose, you approach the champion and congratulate him. Always give that expected respect,” he adds. “Be friendly to all. In my case, since I travel a lot, I treasure my friends. They are the reason why success comes rather easy. I love my colleagues and I know they love me in return.”

Recently, through the initiative of award-winning chef Peachy Juban, a Pastry Arts professor at De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde (DLS-CSB), an over-subscribed three-day master series was conducted with the country’s innovative culinary students and out-of-the-box gastronomic experts in attendance.

The seminar’s demonstrations and workshops were held in collaboration with Felchlin Switzerland through Werdenberg International Corp., Elle & Vire of Santini Food Specialists, Dane International Commodities and Kitchen Aid by Focus Global and Cre8tv3 Baking, Pastry and Decor Solutions.

Notter was accompanied by his son who  is also an accomplished pastry chef. Nicoll Notter, 23, received his formal training at the Notter School of Pastry Arts, where he served as a teaching assistant. Mentored and honed by some of the most accomplished personalities in the field of pastry, he developed not only proficiency but also commendable work ethics. Early this year, Nicoll earned the title of Pastry Chef of the Year at the US Pastry Competition during the International Restaurant and Food Service Show of New York.

“When I was 13, I had no idea what I wanted to be in life. Mom and Dad asked me if I was interested to take lessons in pastry making. Well, I tried it, and guess what, I came to enjoy the experience. During my summer breaks, I dabbled in the kitchen. Eventually, I attended classes that led to another and yet another...”

If there is one principle Nicoll picked up from his dad, it is to be level-headed. “Remain humble. Never stop learning,” he would remind me. “Whenever I am in my kitchen, I am ready and receptive for more discoveries every day.”

Both father and son advise food and beverage students and young chefs to focus on their work. “Don’t make excuses for tasks you don’t accomplish. You just have to do it. You’ve got to have serious direction and sincerely aim to move on.”

“When I teach and do demonstrations, some steps may go wrong. So I look for solutions, work on it and hope to make the final piece beautiful.” Ewald says. “I take note of all the cases I’ve figured out and avoid committing the same mistakes during competitions.”

When asked if they had any secrets to share, Niccol broadly smiles and gives his father the floor. The genius of the pastry chef gladly declares, “Be certain there are no lumps in the chocolate. Eliminate all the possible air from the melted product and be familiar with the different surfaces you work with – may it be wood, fiberglass and many others – for it dictates its final hue and sheen, and eventual taste.”

Sweet words, indeed.

THE SWEET LIFE. Ewald Notter with culinary students attending the master class (above). Ewald’s son Nicoll is also an accomplished pastry chef (left). The younger Notter, 2015 Pastry Chef of the Year, with his winning entry at the International Restaurant Food Service Show in New York (bottom left).