Batangas food revisited

MANILA, Philippines - In our very young years, our Nanay (Lola in Batangas Tagalog) Gela (for Angela) would go to the Tanauan market and bring home a large kariton pulled by carabaos laden with all sorts of food – meat, live chicken, seafood, fruits, vegetables, kakanin, etc. The big kitchen would then be in a frenzy. An hour later, on a long table for nearly 20 family members (that was how big her brood was), a hearty meal would be served.

A fortnight ago, a foodie friend in our village, curious about the “simplistic” food of Batangas, urged our group to go and check what it was all about. We contacted a gentleman, Dindo Montenegro, who has been passionate about Batangas culture, tradition and food for years. Immediately and gladly, he arranged a full-day itinerary for us in the town of Taal. We did not bother to see the volcano, but what we had was a religious pilgrimage and an epicurean adventure that left us all in awe of the town’s history and offerings.

Evelyn, a vendor of the famous tapang Batangas.

Our first stop after a two-hour easy ride over well-paved roads was Casa Cecilia, a quaint Spanish-style house converted into a hotel cum restaurant, located on the Diversion Road (tel. 043-4080046). The dining room is called La Azotea, on the ground floor which opens to a garden with a gazebo. Here we met Dindo and he started us on the attractions of his town. We had a light snack, pancit with lomi-type Chinese noodles. We quickly discerned an Indonesian influence because peanuts and coconut cream were added, giving it a heavier texture and slightly spicy taste. For a party of 11, the bill was very reasonable.

In Taal, the townsfolk greatly revere the protection and guidance of two religious patrons. The Lady of Caysasay is represented by a tiny image enthroned in the old church named after her in the 17th century. Like the Virgin of Peñafrancia, the image is borne on a boat during a fluvial procession held on Pansipit river in her honor every year, which features a healing ceremony called putong. It was more than 400 years ago when the image was brought to Taal from Mexico. Since, the Lady has been noted to “hover” around town, wherever and whenever there is need for her help. After visiting the old church, we trekked to a wooded area where a duo of wells were said to be the site of the Lady’s presence. Up to this day, devotees believe in the healing power of the water from these wells. Around the area are Taaleños selling candles at three tapers for P50. No harm believing and helping them.

Barbeque pork tinindot in annatto.

The Shrine of Saint Martin de Tours (France) is said to be the largest basilica in the country. What is awesome about it is the majesty of the interiors – massive pillars, carved ceiling and frescos all around. That day that we visited and said our prayers, the church was undergoing massive restoration, spearheaded by Monsignor Alfredo Madlangawa. The people of Taal are as devoted to Saint Martin as they are to the Lady. It is he that saves them from natural calamities and as with the Lady, He leaves his “home” on occasions when his help is needed.

A few steps away from the basilica, which is situated in the center of town, is the Montenegro ancestral home, one among many that have been preserved by their owners. Here we arrived at nearly 3 p.m. and found the table laden with an extensive array of the “simplistic” food that our friend was curious about. Dindo’s sister Mayette welcomed us and led us to lunch. What a lunch! Unfortunately, tawilis and maliputo were not available that day. But what they had prepared was not simplistic but simply awesome and delicious! To date, the food is still cooked on firewood stoves. Maybe that helps in retaining flavor.

The stone arch and miraculous wells of Caysasay.

At 3 p.m. we were all starved, but more than that, we were overwhelmed by the array on the table, each tempting us to sit down, pick up plates, spoons and forks and eat! And eat we did! Everyone started with a savory langlang of vegetables and clear broth. There was yellowish chicken adobo cooked with turmeric, giving it the color, and coconut cream; estofado (pork neck) in soy, star anise, sugar and fried bananas; very tender tinindot – barbecued pork in annatto. It was pure joy. We also had taghilao, a batchoy-type of dish with innards; the dual pride of Batangas, tilapia and tulingan, are never to be missed; and yes, tapang Batangas, something we had planned to buy in the market to take home.

Veggies were inihaw na talong and okra with dips of tomatoes and bagoong. A unique dessert, perhaps inspired by coffee jellies served in Manila restaurants, is the kapeng barako-infused irok (beans of the palm family). There was more, but hardly could we manage to taste them all.

Various condiments complete the lunch spread.

The Taal public market is clean, the floor dry. As expected, we all headed for the row of tapa vendors, among them Erly and Evelyn, where we got beef tapa at P280 and pork for P220 a kilo. They’ve got longganiza as well and daing na biya for P150 a kilo.

The town’s hospitality extends to practically all families, like that of our friend Tes Marana and her mother Norma in whose house we were again served the town’s best, a merienda of suman latik, empanada, tamales, linupak of cassava, pacencia (little bite-sized, sweetish cookies), and galletas, with thick hot chocolate made from Batangas’ own tablea. They were so good, we dared ask our hostesses for “take homes.”

Turmeric-flavored chicken adobo and pork estofado.

What a lovely, enriching day – thanks to Dindo, his family and the Maranas.

Dindo has done tour packages for years. Easily, our group – Art, the unofficial photographer, Vivien, Mary Lou, Ben and Nening, Letty, Beng and Belen – rated him a 10. He can customize a program based on what visitors would require or prefer.

We venture to say he is one of the people the Department of Tourism urgently needs. He can be contacted through tel. no. (043) 408-0057.

Taal is a treasured destination that must be explored, and enjoyed. Do visit!

The tour group in the sala of the Montenegro heritage house.